Monday, June 12, 2023

Why Do I Do This?

Hi Everyone!

If anyone is still following this I thought I would talk a bit about why I keep doing this cruising stuff. It's been a couple of weeks since I picked up the old mooring and I have been able to reflect a bit as I reenter the land based life once again.

It has been interesting to run into folks around the neighborhood who for the most part have no idea what cruising is about, what it is like, and why anybody in their right mind would do it. And they typically have their own problems to deal with and aren't really interested in learning more. That's OK. I feel a quiet satisfaction in knowing that I successfully completed my sixth trip to the Bahamas on the White Seal and made it back in one piece. There are a lot of things that can go wrong on a trip like that. I am very grateful. The real boosters and enthusiasts out there are those who have done this sort of thing. You know who you are! I will look forward to seeing you around the water this summer.

Back to the question I posed. I don't really have a clear answer. It boils down to the fact that there isn't much more satisfying than making a long trip in a small boat. There are a lot of folks out there that share a similar dream but never seem to make it happen, as seen in the thousands of well found boats secured more or less permanently in marinas everywhere. I am very thankful that I have been able to make these voyages, as well as voyages on other boats. I have always had a bit of the wanderlust in me and a real need to travel.

Thanks to everyone who followed along and may you all have fair winds as you pursue your own adventures!

With gratitude, Charlie 

Monday, May 29, 2023

Journey's End!

 Hi everyone!

It was yesterday around noon that Ron and I came round the corner into Kingsland Bay and picked up my old familiar mooring. Nothing like it, to successfully conclude a long trip in a small boat. And I was so happy to be home. My Langworthy side of the family has lived in Vermonts Champlain Valley since the 1780's, so I have an attachment for the place. I was really quite homesick. My lovely wife Meg was waiting patiently on shore and it was so great to be back with her.

It has been quite surreal being back on land. And a distinct step up on the ladder of civilized living. I'm really kind of overwhelmed and will try to post a coherent assessment of the cruise after a few days of unwinding. And after tackling a few items on an extensive honeydo list!

Very best to all, Charlie

Wednesday, May 24, 2023

Homeward bound!

 Hi everyone!

Presently at Castleton on Hudson where we will unstep mast. We signed in last night, paid up, and spent the night on the mooring. My goal was to be by the crane at 9 AM, pull the mast, and get underway. However, a Canadian boat, which shall remain unnamed, came up the river and took the spot at 8:45 without bothering to sign in or checking with the only other boat (me). Since they are a ketch, they have blown the entire morning and have just gotten the mizzen down. Unfortunately, I am in a hurry to get home for a big family gathering coming up in Connecticut. We may end up having to spend another night here. We should have been underway at this time, which is noon.

Enough whining Charlie! I am enjoying the company of Ron Rost again, who joined me i Atlantic Highlands. I had had a very fast and boisterous sail up the Jersey shore in a SE wind. The official NOAA forecast had been for 10-15 knots. Windy.com had called for 20 with gusts to 28 and that is what we had. I did not see any other sailboats out there, in fact, very few vessels of any kind. It was very rough going out the Cape May inlet in spite of the flood tide. Once out however, and able to beam reach, it was pretty spectacular. I got to Sandy Hook around 11 PM when the wind died. The seas were still quite large and the tide was ebbing at the Hook. I ended up taking the sails down and just drifting till about4:30 AM when I started the engine and went with the flood into Atlantic Highlands. Ron joined me later in the day.

The next morning, in a brisk NW wind, we sailed off the anchor and headed thru New York Harbor cloaehauled the entire time. I started off with storm jib and full main.  The wind dropped a bit in the lower harbor so I put on the working jib. Then, when it picked up later we reefed the main. It was just spectacular sailing. Truly a great life experience, sailing thru that harbor in a really stiff breeze. We managed to stay sailing almost to the Tappan Zee, where the tide turned and the wind died. We spent the night anchored at Nyack, just north of the Tappan Zee Bridge. 

Next day had us enjoying the stunning section of the Hudson that inspired the Hudson River School of painting. Bear Mountain Bridge, West Point, World's End, Storm King, and Bannerman's Castle were all inspiring. A night anchored at Norrie Point State Park, another lovely day on the river, and here we are!

Best to all, Charlie

Thursday, May 18, 2023

Delaware Bay Punishment

 Hello fellow sailors,

As usual I have lagged behind in keeping this little missive up to date. I am anchored in Cape May, after a rollicking sail down the Delaware yesterday. And of course there have been other adventures since emerging from the depths of the swamp.

Sometimes it feels like low grade combat when sailing alone. I started yesterday morning at 5:30 only to find I was hard aground in the basin at Chesapeake City. A quick look at the tide tables made me realize I should just wait, and the tide would float me off. At about 7, I became impatient, and ran out a kedge anchor in the dinghy. No success. It refused to set, and resulted in a large load of putrid mud being deposited on my deck. Twenty buckets of water later and things looked better. A few more minutes passed, and I motored off. I just needed a bit more patience. The C&D canal was no problem. The current was with me and I was through in short order. Coming out of the canal is like being catapulted into an active firing range. There were 2 large ships, one northbound, one south. They were passing right at the intersection I was being thrust into. The wind was out of the north, 20-25, opposing the current, and the river was a mass of whitecaps. A tug and barge combo was anchored outside of the channel, and another barge was visible downriver, but headed my way. Adding to my stress level was the fact that my Navionics navigation app had been out of commission for several days, something I was none too happy about. Since I wanted to avoid getting creamed by a 50,000 ton ship I decided to hold off on hoisting sail until conditions were more favorable. Using my paper charts I stayed in shallow water until the massive piles of steel had lumbered away from the area. I was fighting a strong tide which kept my speed low. The motion was excessive, and my autopilot was acting a bit wonky, needing close supervision. I hoisted the jib and saw a dramatic improvement in speed. Shutting the engine down I made my way past the nuclear power plant on the New Jersey side. 

But wait, another sailboat appeared on the other side of the river , also headed south. And they were sporting a main AND a jib. Clearly, the red flag had been waved, and a race was on. Getting my main up whilst being thrashed in the waves was not pretty, but I did it. And the tide finally began to turn. Sadly, the other boat was clearly faster. It was about a mile away and I never got a good look at it. As the tide strengthened my speed rose to a peak of 9.2 knots. 2 of those knots were due to current. I may have achieved higher but I had my hands full as the boat surged thru the waves. I am finding that the autopilot has a tough time in heavy downwind conditions. All of this time I am recording my position, avoiding other ships, and generally getting beaten around. After several hours I met a really huge tug towing a massive barge with containers piled high. The initial wake didn't seem bad, but the subsequent hills of water were something else. There was a loud snap as a pin in one of my preventer shackles broke. The preventer keeps the mainsail from jibing, and potentially removing Charlie's head from its foundation. So I dropped the main. This involved scrambling around and securing the sail as the boat careened from side to side. The autopilot steered while I replaced the broken pin. I was too beat to rehoist it. Things were looking good and I was 5 miles from Cape May. I was running directly downwind, with the jib jibing back and forth when suddenly there was a blast of wind, from directly ahead! Not in the forecast at all. So now I was faced with a new wind, directly on the nose, and the tide was now contrary as well. I gave up and turned on the motor. I wanted to get into Cape May before dark and I did, just barely. I anchored in a questionable spot, and sure enough, at 1:30AM, I was aground. Same way I began the day! No harm done. Flat calm. Soft mud. 

Hope to head north along the Jersey shore tomorrow!

Best to all, Charlie

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Back to the Swamp

 Hi everyone,

I must be a slow learner but here I go again. Tied up at the public dock in Elizabeth City and heading into the Dismal Swamp tomorrow. Called the canal authorities and they report that my nemesis, the duckweed infestation, is gone. With strong northerly winds in the forecast I figured the swamp would be better than the Virginia Cut route. We shall see.

Had spent a night in Belhaven, where I caught up with my friend Paul, who is working on his Alburg 35 in a yard there. Then it was a long day to the mouth of the Alligator River. Today I made my way across the Albemarle and up the first part of the Pasquotank to Elizabeth City. There was some nice sailing involved. Lots of crab pots to dodge. Thunderstorms in the forecast but so far I have avoided them.

Cheers, Charlie

Sunday, May 7, 2023

Oriental!

 Hi everyone!

Sailing wing and wing on the Neuse River with the autopilot doing the work. Realizing I should be blogging more frequently when things are fresh.

I gotta put a plug in for Oriental, NC. It's a small place, with a postage stamp harbor and about a thousand people. Nothing particularly exceptional about it. No grand architecture that I could see. Off the beaten path. About a half dozen shrimp boats. But the overall vibe is just stellar. Enjoying a cup of coffee on the porch of the Bean, looking out over the harbor with my new friend Keith is great. The town is something of a boating mecca, situated as it is on the banks of the Neuse. I spent 2 nights there, tied up at the free town dock. Laid in some provisions, and helped my friend Emily for a day on her boat. You remember Emily, right? I towed her thru the Dismal Swamp last fall.

Gotta leave now. Wind picking up. Attention required!

Best to all, Charlie

Saturday, April 29, 2023

Waccamaw River

 Hi again!

It's been 3 short days since leaving Charleston. About 30 miles on the first one, 35 on the second one, half of which was under sail, and about 20 today. The upcoming stretch is pretty much devoid of anchorages. And the forecast tomorrow includes a real potpourri of bad events, so I may be staying put.

Back to Charleston. What a lovely place! Unfortunately, it looks like millionaire status is needed to gain entry these days. But it was so nice to be able to walk around and soak it up. I toured the South Carolina Historical Society Museum and the Charleston Museum. Loved them both.

Joined my friends on Pathfinder and Sweet Dreams 3 for a nice restaurant dinner. Great time. 

Last night I anchored in my secret anchorage, of which I have spoken in the past. Just a perfect spot. Never been anyone else anchored in there. 360 degree protection. Scenic. Deep up to the banks. Wide enough to turn the boat around in. Love it!

Best, Charlie

Tuesday, April 25, 2023

White Seal Becomes a Motorboat

 Hi folks!

Sheesh, its been a while, hasn't it? Here I am in Charleston with nary a peep out of me as I passed thru some beautiful scenery, the Georgia low country. I thought about sailing outside for an overnight run up the coast but I just couldn't face it. So I plunged headlong into Georgia and realized again how much I love the place. The coast, anyway. Not so sure about the rest of the state. Anchored at Jekyll Island one nighr and took a pleasant jaunt ashore. It is about the most pedestrian and bicycle friendly place imaginable. The trail system is beautiful and extensive.

A couple of days later I was in Savannah, and as a pedestrian there I was relegated to 3rd class citizenship. Happy to have survived the questionable street crossings that give you about 5 seconds less than what you need. And at age 69 my ability to scamper is somewhat diminished.

I was very happy to catch up with my friends and mooring neighbors, Roger and Susan. Diligent readers will remember they raced with me in Georgetown. They are here in Charleston as well. Sadly, the wind has either been very light, or on the nose, which given that the waterway is usually quite narrow, means that I have been motoring. Not a big deal, but it just doesn't seem very righteous.

Tomorrow I will be here in Charleston for a full day. Hoping to visit a couple of museums and visit my boat friends. Upcoming weather does not loik good. Possible gale force winds Thursday nite into Friday. Don't want to stay at the marina for more than 2 nights because of the expense. Anchoring options here are terrible. Happy to be at the dock so I can visit the town without worries. Charleston is gorgeous and exceptional. I hope I don't get hate mail but Savannah looks a bit lame in comparison. The sheer numbers of preserved and maintained old homes is really something. As usual, a foray outside of the historic district exposes one to a sh*tstorm of ghastly architecture but I guess most people tolerate it so it can't be all bad. It just happens that I appreciate beauty and tradition.

Thats all for now!

Charlie

Monday, April 17, 2023

Waiting for the tide

 Greetings all!

I left my rented mooring in St. Augustine and went a mile or two north, where I anchored to wait for the tide change. Yesterday was spent doing an oil change and belt change on my engine. What was normally a 1 1/2 hour job, turned into a six hour ordeal, because I had reluctantly purchased aftermarket oil filters from West Marine. The outside diameter is a bit smaller than the originals, so my filter wrench no longer worked. No problem, I figured, I'll just walk 3 miles round trip to an auto parts store and get another wrench. That one didn't work either. So I decided to go to West Marine and see if they had a solution. They told me that the decision to stop carrying Yanmar products was made because they were getting too expensive. So, instead of paying 15 bucks for a filter I could buy one for 11. And spend 6 hours walking all over town in the blazing hot sun looking for the appropriate tool. Thank you West Marine! Happily, I did find a proper tool at another parts store. And I do realize that this sad little tale is a classic example of a first world problem!

After leaving Vero Beach I had a couple of days of very high winds on the Indian River and really incredible sailing. A bit scary at times. The wind was blowing at 25-35 and at times I felt like I was driving a Ferrari. There were very few boats out there but I did get satisfaction at passing 2 motoring sailboats. Alas, I then spent a day and a half motoring up to St. Augustine. A cold front went thru last night and I am actually wearing a coat at the moment. Breeze out of the north for the next couple of days precludes me from sailing so I think I will motor up to Fernandina over the next couple of days. Might be a good opportunity to go outside after Wednesday.

Cheers, Charlie

Sunday, April 9, 2023

Magnitude

 Hi everyone!

When departing from a place like Morgan's Bluff, Andros, and sailing into Palm Beach, one is humbled by the magnitude of everything in the US. The sheer numbers of people. The noise and the traffic, which thankfully is mostly driving on the right! Simple things like great sidewalks. And the Publix supermarket, oh my goodness! Simply astounding after shopping at the Exuma market. 

After a couple of days in Palm Beach I headed back out the inlet and had a great sail up to Fort Pierce.  Hard to believe I was the only sail out there until I got to Fort Pierce, where I was joined by a couple of other sailboats coming across from the Abacos. Anchored in Fort Pierce for the night before motoring the short distance up to Vero Beach, where I spent last night. And due to a stiff north wind I have elected to stay another night. The forecast is pretty poor, with wind and rain.

I am often critical of outrageous displays of extreme wealth, (think megayachts and waterfront real estate) so I have a little story to share about some prime property in Palm Beach. There is a row of high rise condos marching north along the shore, when suddenly, they stop. They are replaced by 1.6 miles of sand dunes, mangrove marsh, and sea turtle habitat. When Britt and I discovered this last fall it literally brought tears to my eyes. The monetary value of this land had to be huge. Instead, the owners, John D and Catherine T MacArthur decided a park would be better. You've heard their names on public radio. I know that philanthropists have a desire to immortalize their names but I really can't think of a better way to do it. Kudos to their memory and to everyone else involved in preserving this bit of paradise smack dab in the middle of what is otherwise a dystopian south Florida.

Happy Easter to all,

Charlie

Wednesday, April 5, 2023

Back in the US

 Hi everyone!

My US phone is working sporadically but I got in yesterday evening. Just finished with customs. Not sure why I wasted my time doing this since nobody else does. They seemed surprised to see me. Will post more later since I don't want to write a bunch only to lose it.

Best to all, Charlie

PS In Palm Beach after 37 hours out of Andros. Yes, I am too old to be doing this! Particularly singlehanded. Thank goodness for the autopilot!

Thursday, March 30, 2023

Exuma Cruise

 Hi everyone!

Writing to you from Nassau where we arrived yesterday. It was a great few days as my brother in law Mike and our nephew Jonny joined me for an Exuma cruise. They did inadvertently bring some bad weather with them and we hunkered down with high winds and lots of rain for a couple of days. On day 3 the forecast was still rather poor but we decided to shove off anyway. Winds were out of the east at about 20 to 25 and built to near 30 later in the day. We had about 50 miles to get to Dotham Cut and Black Point. We used the engine for about 10 minutes to get out of the anchorage then sailed out the harbor and on to a rough ocean. Started out with sunshine and flying fish. Single reef in the main and the storm jib. Switched over to a working jib a bit later. As the day wore on the weather deteriorated and got windier, and it began to rain. We were on a beam reach and really moving. The seas were in the 6-8 foot range. Mike and Jonny did great. When we were abeam Dotham Cut I dropped the jib and we headed in under just the main. We were taking advantage of the flood tide and we shot thru as if out of a cannon with big seas crashing on the rocks on either side. We left the ocean behind and entered a veritable mill pond which elicited applause from my awesome crew. We circled around and tacked thru the Black Point anchorage, anchoring under sail. It was a very satisfying conclusion to the day.

We had dinner ashore and enjoyed walking around the town the next morning. Later, we sailed up to Staniel Cay and snorkeled the Thunderball Cave at low tide. Dinner ashore at the yacht club. Walked around the lovely town. We decided to skip the swimming pigs. It beats me as to why people obsess about seeing pigs swim. 

Our next sail was to O'brien's Cay, done entirely under sail, although picking up the mooring was touch and go due to the current. We snorkeled and explored ashore. A lovely place. We were next to Johnny Depp's island which he recently sold to JK Rowling. She didn't invite us over.

Next day was off to Warderick Wells. I was able to procure a really choice mooring in the north field. This place is gorgeous and has been featured in countless photos and articles over the years. The Exuma Land and Sea Park is a real treasure and I am so thankful I have been able to visit it over the years. My crew loved the park.

I was a bit worried about approaching weather and so decided to sail next for Allan's Cay. This meant skipping some lovely places but they offered no protection from the south or southwest. We got my usual perfect anchoring spot and went ashore to commune with the iguanas. But the real entertainment began at 9AM the next morning as an armada of high speed tourist boats from Nassau began arriving. But they were all gone before noon. It was a nice lazy day of swimming and vegetating. The next morning we pulled anchor at 0630 and headed for Nassau. Had to motor sail for 3 hours but finally had enough wind to sail the next 3 hours. Nice dinner ashore last night (thanks again Mike!) and some walking about town. We were sad to see Jonny leave today. He was absolutely great fun to have aboard!

Mike and I got some groceries and are at anchor right here in the heart of the harbor. Sadly, very sadly, he leaves tomorrow.

All the best to everyone, Charlie

Sunday, March 19, 2023

Still in Georgetown

 Hi everyone!

Years ago I laughed at folks who dropped the hook in Georgetown and never left. It appears I am now part of that club. It gets pretty comfortable here. Always a place to anchor. The Exuma Market nearby. Friendly locals, some of whom recognize me. There was the regatta. Rake and scrape music at Eddie's Edgewater on Monday nights. Bahamian youth sailing traditional sloops in the harbor. Mailboats coming and going. Getting a bite to eat from Sonia at her shack by Regatta Park. Heck, what's not to love?

I had a great visit with both of my sisters. Covid got in the way for several days but Katy was able to stay at the Exuma Yacht Club. When symptoms disappeared she spent a couple of nights on the boat. Her daughter Elena, husband Mike, and grandson Theo rented a house just south of town. My sister Barb rented a house on the beach near the airport with her kids Samantha, Stephen, and Sophia. Sam's husband Jeff, their son Mason, Stephen's partner Natalie, and Sophia's partner Albert were all a huge source of fun. I got everyone out sailing. With an unusual southwest wind it meant delightful beam reaching up and down the harbor. 

After a couple of days alone I look forward to having my brother in law Mike, and our nephew Jonny join me tomorrow. Can't wait! A cold front passing may keep us in the harbor for a couple days but the goal is to head north thru the Exumas.

Cheers, Charlie

Wednesday, March 8, 2023

Covid found me

 Hi folks!

As you can see I am slipping behind in maintaining this little epistle! That is partly due to the fact I was hit by the Covid brand of semi truck last Saturday. Happily, I feel pretty good now but have been isolating on board. I am hoping to test negative tomorrow. Meanwhile, my sister showed up, and instead of staying aboard with me, had to obtain lodging ashore, which was a challenge on short notice. I feel terrible about this. If I do test negative I really hope I can get her on the boat for at least one night.

On a happier note, we had a great Round the Island Race, coming in third in our class. Our two primary competitors were really able to stretch their legs and pull ahead on this much longer course, half of which was on the ocean. Roger and Susan were awesome crew! Roger probably still has sore shoulders from short tacking to windward along the shore. It's really a cool race with hazards in the way of shallow water, coral reefs, and little in the way of navigational aids. But heck, that describes the entire country. So I ended up having to make two trips to the podium to receive my prizes. For winning the first race I got a bottle of rum and a blue regatta burgee. For the third place finish I got some Sands beer and a yellow burgee.  There were probably a couple hundred people in attendance and this may have been where I picked up covid. Or it may have been the next afternoon when I attended the Ministry of Tourism dinner at the same venue.

I must say I am tiring a bit of Georgetown and eager to be underway again. Hopefully I will be able to visit with my 10 family members over the next 10 days. Then my brother in law Mike comes on the 20th. He and I will go thru the Exumas to Nassau with him flying out on the 30th. That's the plan anyways.....

I did finally get my extensions for the cruising permit and immigration. And coincidentally there are questions being raised by local news organizations about what is happening with these funds. Apparently the private contractor has not been very good about turning them over to the government.

Gotta run. Trying to get another room for my sister.

Best, Charlie

Tuesday, February 28, 2023

Bureaucratic hassles

 Hi everyone,

It's the biggest challenge of my cruise to date. Nope, not the tropical storm. Not navigational challenges. It is trying to get an extension for my cruising permit so I don't get arrested and thrown out of the country. It used to be easy. You would sail into an approved port, hoist the yellow flag, and go ashore to the customs office. There would be forms to fill out and sign, attesting to how many deaths had occurred aboard and whether the bubonic plague was present. After these niceties were dispensed with you would receive the cruising permit, after the payment of a nominal fee.

Those happy and carefree days are now gone. The computer age has been rammed down our throats and I am not happy about it. A good bit of my time during the last several days has been spent on this fruitless exercise. I referred in an earlier post when Britt and I entered the country as to what a challenge it was. Britt was able to eventually figure it out, but only with the aid of a borrowed desktop computer and the better chunk of a day. The people at the Customs office here in Georgetown are of zero help so far, which is really unusual for the Bahamas, where the people are super friendly. Roger Wallace has said he would help me but I don't want to chew up his time. This procedure should not require a degree in computer science. I have heard from a number of other people complaining about this procedure as well. Additionally, the fee for a cruising permit has risen far beyond the rate of inflation, adding insult to injury. Back in 1985 I paid $50. This year? $800!

Enough whining Charlie. The in the harbor race was a ton of fun! We won our class, which was 36 to 39 footers, and were first across the finish line. A blast from the cannon was very cool. Roger Wallace and Susan DiSimone were awesome crew. It has been fun hanging out with them. We will be doing the around the island race on Thursday. Conditions were such that I was able to use my big genoa. The second boat to finish was two seconds behind us. Great fun!

Cheers, Charlie


Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Regatta time

 Hi everyone,

First, a little bit about the harbor here in Georgetown. This is apparently one of the largest harbors in the Caribbean, according to a recent environmental and development study. And it is a natural harbor with no dredging having been done on the entrances. It is several miles long and roughly a mile wide, with numerous islands and additional bays contained within it. At the moment there are roughly 350 cruising boats at anchor here and it is by no means full. It is rather shallow overall but I can enter much of it with a five and a half foot draft, and much more at high tide. It is easy to see why folks end up here, become comfortable, and don't pull their anchor for months. After using marginal anchorages for so long this place is paradise.

I did sign up for the big boat races at registration this morning. A brain scan should probably be ordered up because the in the harbor race, on Saturday, will be a veritable sh*t show! At least it is scheduled for high tide. It involves at least 25 boats racing around the harbor, trying not to collide with each other, and trying not to hit any of the remaining 225 boats sitting at anchor. Like I said, I should have my noggin examined. I had planned to do it single handed, but I may enlist my friends Roger and Susan as crew. Then there is the around the island race which is scheduled for next Monday. That takes sailors thru the harbor and out the western entrance, followed by a beat to windward, a passage thru the eastern entrance, and return to the area of the start. It's about 20 miles, half on the ocean and half in the harbor. It will have it's challenges but at least the tacking portion will be on the ocean where there is plenty of room. I'll report in after the race!

Best, Charlie

Sunday, February 12, 2023

I'm So Vain

 I probly think this song is about me!

Hi everyone!

With apologies to Carly Simon I underwent a real scalping at the local barbershop a few days ago. It had been a good six months since the last haircut and my hair had gotten long and blonde. Those two conditions are rather unusual for someone of my advanced years and I was quite pleased about it. The fact I have hair to cut is really quite remarkable and I don't know anyone my age with naturally blonde hair. So I sidle nervously into the barbershop and await my turn. One of the barbers was finishing up and his customer was not pleased with the result. I should have walked out right there. Instead, I entered the chair and observed the grin on my executioners face. I said I was looking for a very light trim, with removal of perhaps a half inch. As he made preparations he swiveled me away from the mirror and fired up the clippers. My heart sank as a huge shock of hair fell to the floor from the first pass. I was speechless with horror. A couple more passes and I found my voice, saying, "that seems like an awful lot!" He swiveled me around so I could see the damage. At that point I suggested he just clean it up as best as possible and to please not make it any shorter. He tried, but basically failed. Leaving the shop I felt naked and exposed, with my overriding concern to get back to the boat where no one could see me. 

It's been a few days and I can laugh about it now. There have been plenty of comments and some strange looks but I haven't become the pariah I thought I was destined to be.

Best regards, Old Baldy


Tuesday, February 7, 2023

Contemplation

 Hi everyone!

It seems I have a bit too much time on my hands here in Georgetown! Happily, I have managed to acquire some fresh reading material and I am able to visit with friends on other boats. But I miss the daily travel, the familiar as well as the new anchorages, and the sense of anticipation that accompanies the pulling of the anchor at sunrise. It really is about the journey. I suppose I could sail over to Cat or Long Island, but I have gotten rather comfortable here. I move about in the harbor, going into town for groceries and socialization. There are over 300 boats here now so it is getting a bit more crowded. The cruising regatta starts in a couple weeks and I bet there will be 400 boats then. And in early March I will be visited by both of my sister's and their families. Should be fun!

All the best, Charlie


Sunday, January 29, 2023

Beach Church Today

 Hi everyone!

Those who know me will be surprised to hear I just left Sunday church service! My first time in attendance here at the non denominational service held under the casuarina trees on the beach. It is Christian based and has been going on for years in the Georgetown cruising community. Very nice and uplifting. There must have been 60 or ,70 people in attendance. My friend Jacob from the boat Ruby was playing the guitar.

I am on my own again, having said goodbye to my lovely wife a couple of days ago. A long list of boat projects awaits. The day Meg left I used my boat to tow a disabled Brazilian boat to the Marina several miles away. The towing went well but the Marina was scary. Boats propped up by stacks of cinder blocks and pieces of scrap lumber. Lots of wrecked boats that appear to have come to grief on coral reefs. Equipment dripping with rust and so on. A far cry from Point Bay Marina back home. I hope my new Brazilian friends stay is brief!

All the best, Charlie


Thursday, January 19, 2023

Georgetown!

 Hi folks!

Lots to report! Storm finally ended, Mary had a birthday, and we are in Georgetown. 

Nice birthday party aboard Bigger Fish, a Hylas 46 with the delightful Hugo and Mimi! We were joined by other friends Jim, Stefan, and Marie. A wonderful ntime was had by all. The wind died down overnight and on the morning of the 16 the we headed out the cut with no problems on the ocean. We ended up motorsailing the entire 40 plus miles to Georgetown due to relatively light winds astern. We could have sailed but would have had to spend the night on the ocean. I won't make that entrance in the dark. Plus, we were picking up Meg on the 17th. Yes, Meg is now aboard! We are anchored off the Chat and Chill bar on Stocking Island at the moment. Had a lovely walk on the ocean beach earlier. Everyone taking a siesta at the moment. Snorkeling.yesterday. Mary and Malachi have met some younger folks. Great times here!

Best, Charlie

Saturday, January 14, 2023

Norther

 Hi everyone!

We are in a doozy of a norther at the moment. The initial line squall hit us yesterday morning with winds of probably 40 mph. Accompanied by a deluge of rain and a drop in temperature. Today the wind is a solid 30 and thankfully we are in the lee of the island. We did make it ashore last evening and had a great dinner at the Ocean Cabin, served up by Terry and Ernestine Bain. The wind should die down some overnight. We are invited for drinks at 4 by some of our Canadian friends. Will be a short but brutal row to get there. I did manage to row into town earlier but that was by myself and still really challenging. 

Best, Charlie


Thursday, January 12, 2023

Little Farmer's Cay

 Hi folks!

We have come in here to potentially ride out an approaching cold front. It's supposed to come thru early Saturday morning.

We had several lovely days at Black Point, a lovely little town. Laundry was a project we tackled, a project made easier due to Ida Patton's fabulous laundromat, which boasts the best view of any laundromat I have ever been in. And Ida herself is a delight. We also purchased some groceries and topped up our water. We were sorry to leave but the anchorage is wide open to the west and becomes untenable with a frontal passage. So we sailed out the anchor and sailed down to Oven Rock near Little Farmer's. Spent the afternoon spelunking, beachcombing, and weaving palm fronds. Both Mary and Malachi have become extremely proficient at that craft.

So, we are tucked in at the southeast corner of the Cay where we should have reasonable protection from weather although there is a good bit of surge from the inlet. So there is a considerable amount of roll, which doesn't bother me, 

Friday, January 6, 2023

Staniel Cay

 Hi all!

We were incommunicado for a few days with no signal. Had a lovely time but the crew was lamenting the lack of fresh food so we came down here today and partook of burgers and salad at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.

There has been some really good sailing and snorkeling along the way and Mary has suggested we go back north to sample some more of the park.

We did have a bit of an adventure on Warderick Wells yesterday. After taking a park mooring at Emerald Rocks we wanted to go to park headquarters where we knew we might be able to score a cold drink. It was probably a half mile away by dinghy but I suggested we walk, remembering the scenic trails from previous years. This hike, a result of my bad choice, involved a good hour and a half of slogging through jagged rocks, poison wood, thick underbrush, leering hutias ( an endemic small mammal) , and a case of heatstroke for Mary, who essentially collapsed at one point. Cryptic signage led us over to the other side of the island where we fortunately ran into a couple of Quebecois friends. They helped us back in the right direction and gave Malachi a ride back to our dinghy, which he then rowed to the park office. Rowing back to White Seal was a cinch, maybe 15 minutes.

Another fantastic rowing adventure took.place at Shroud Cay. We managed to get the big boat very close to the entrance of Sanctuary Creek Creek and anchored for the night. In the morning we rowed through the mangrove lined creek to the ocean outlet. It's a stunning place. We shared it with a megayachts family whose hired crew had set up cabanas and were blasting music and serving drinks. Not to us! The megayachts owner was impressed with our little dinghy and my guess is that he may have never seen one in use.

Speaking of the megayachts crowd, Mary had met a captain of one in the bar at Highborne Cay and she peppered him with questions. It turned out he had just finished a stint of 3 weeks with the owner aboard. On one day it developed that a member of the owners family had a need for some Mint Oreo cookies. Regular Oreos were aboard, but would not suffice. So the captain fired up the dinghy and went from Highborne into Nassau, a round trip of 70 miles, to acquire some Mint Oreos. With a thousand horsepower at his disposal he was back in a bit over two hours. We can't do that with our dinghy!

Cheers, Charlie



Sunday, January 1, 2023

Highborne

 Hi fellow sailors,

We anchored just outside the Marina at Highborne Cay. It is a bit intimidating, given the staggering concentration of wealth at this spot. Mary is rowing our dinghy in on a reconnaissance.mission, with the ultimate aim of scoring a cold Snickers bar. Supposedly, you can land a dinghy here for a fee. It was decided to send the cutest crew member in to establish initial contact. Bear in mind that Mary is rowing a dinghy with an approximate value, on a good day, of maybe 500 bucks. We were just passed by a dinghy from a megayachts worth at least a million. It's a good 50' in length, carries 4 outboards with 1600 horsepower total, and like our little cockleshell is used to carry people and goods back and forth. These things are all over the place down here. When Meg and I were here 32 years ago this place was decidedly more rustic. But, like the rest of the Exumas, it has been discovered. Still pretty nice though!

We enjoyed a nice fire on the beach with a bunch of new Quebecois friends and rang in the New Year. Very nice! Then snorkeling in a lovely garden of sea fans and coral.

Best to all, Charlie