Safe in Nassau

Hi there! Another guest post from Mary. Charlie arrived safely in Nassau yesterday. He’s working on getting his internet/phone situation squared away, so is unable to provide you faithful readers with updates right now, but he wanted to let you know he made it! (He is still reachable by email via his iPod touch and sporadic WiFi if you want to contact him.)

Also, at the risk of completely commandeering this blog more than I have already, I am excited to announce that I purchased a one-way ticket to Nassau and will be joining Charlie for a while starting January 13th. My dear friend from college will also be joining us and we will travel through the Exumas together. I am looking forward to it greatly and will do my best to ensure that a few more photos make it into this blog when I get down there. ;)

-Mary

Safe Sailing, Dad!

Hi there! It's actually Mary posting this time; Charlie is reportedly on his way across the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas currently and will be out of touch for several days. In the meantime, here's a photo Charlie sent from his time in Key Biscayne. It's a boat that was reportedly used to transport Cuban refugees to Key Biscayne. 

Yup, still here!

Not a bad day, actually, with delightful weather. Wind is 15 to 20 out of the southeast, exactly the direction I need to go to compensate for the stream. But beating to windward would be a fools errand, and I would likely end up in the Abacos. Tomorrow, in advance of the latest cold front, it swings around to the south, which would be great except for the thunderstorms that are predicted. And since that can lead to reduced visibility, a serious concern given the fast moving ship traffic, I will most likely head out Sunday morning. Sunday has also received the blessing of Chris Parker, the Bahamas weather guru.

I feel a bit stupid, hanging out here for 10 days, but I am in good company, with at least a half dozen boats waiting to cross at this anchorage alone. And, as I have mentioned, this is a very pleasant place to hang out. Been doing a ton of reading, some boat maintenance, and visiting with other folks. Will try and post again before crossing, then will be incommunicado for several days.

Best, Charlie

Still here

Hi everyone,

No Name Harbor is filling up with cruisers waiting for that elusive weather window. I should have gone today, based on how nice it turned out to be, but I didn't know that, and so here I am. Listened to the weather guru, Chris Parker on my new single side band receiver this morning, after getting some much appreciated help from another cruiser familiar with those radios. Chris says next crossing possibility is Sunday or Monday. So, Chris comes on at 6:30 AM, and broadcasts the Bahamas weather, from the perspective of an experienced sailor and a professional weatherman. Plus, he really knows the Bahamas. He broadcasts from somewhere in Florida, and the beauty of it is that you can hear him hundreds of miles away, with the right equipment. Much further than the usual sources. So it was nice to check that out. I will be listening regularly. I sanded and varnished the starboard toenail, which had gotten scuffed up during the storm on the Chesapeake and I also fixed the steaming light on the mast. Did some reading, and also had dinner on Calypso, with Jeff and Wendy. Lovely evening. Stormy weather on tap for several days, but nice and safe in the harbor. I did move, though, due to getting crowded out by later arrivals, who didn't think ahead and account for changing conditions. I am non confrontational, (wimpy) , so I just pulled up anchor and moved to a less crowded area. Maybe they will realize their transgression, but I doubt it.....

Best, Charlie

Key Biscayne, continued

Decided to hang tight this morning. You may have heard about the big storm in the southeast, and the fringes of that were making for uncertainty down here. I would have been unable to get into Bimini due to strong southwesterly winds, and the likelihood of my showing up at low tide. And a night on the banks with a possibly strong cold front did not sound appealing either. So, after digesting the weather reports, I rolled over, and went back to sleep!

Best to all, Charlie

Christmas boat parade

Ok folks, here's something we don't have in Vermont. All of the anchored boats in No Name Harbor have been expelled temporarily to Biscayne Bay for several hours while a procession of highly decorated boats circle thru the anchorage in front of hundreds of onlookers. Quite festive, and noisy. At 9 PM we are allowed back in and I expect it will be a mad rush.

My radio arrived today and I look forward to getting forecasts on it. Tomorrow looks like a potential crossing day, but there are some variables I don't like the look of, so I will assess again in the morning. If I cross to Bimini it would unfortunately be at low tide when I would get there. The entrance is super sketchy in westerly winds and very shallow. An alternative would be to go around the north end of the island, but then I am committed to another 80 miles and a night out on the banks with a potential dose of crummy weather. And to be quite frank, this singlehanding business is hard work and I am not getting any younger! So I will err on the side of caution in the morning.

Best to all, Charlie

Rap music impressions

Package came but post office won't  look for it til tomorrow. Oh well. Nice day. Lugged more groceries one mile back to the boat.

Oh yes, rap music. An approximately 80 foot motor yacht pulled into the anchorage and he is obviously an aficionado of high volume rap. If he plays this rubbish for very long I may have to call the park authorities. High volume expletives, monotonous droning beat, absolute excrement to my ears. This is an excellent example of why I dislike South Florida so much. You have a pretty nice place like Key Biscayne and then some jackass has to come in and inflict himself on everyone else. Excellent news, he is pulling up anchor. Yes, he is leaving! There is justice after all!


Charlie

First world problems

Rather frustrating as I try to pull together some loose ends and watch another potential weather window slip away. I gave up on finding the radio I want for weather broadcasts and ordered one online. Decided to have sent general delivery to the big post office here on Key Biscayne. Called the post office and checked their website to see if any issues. Could not get an actual person to talk to after exhaustive trips up every branch of the phone tree. Placed order anyway. Walked into town and stopped by the post office. They inform me that they are one of the post offices that no longer does general delivery. But they will keep an eye out for it anyway and give me a call if they catch it. Meanwhile, I get an email from the vendor that says it will be delivered by 8 PM. Great! They didn't tell me next day delivery could be that late. It will be interesting to see if I get it. I really want this radio, which receives single side band and allows me to get forecasts when out of range of cell service, VHF, or FM radio.

Will update tomorrow,  Charlie

No Name Harbor

Here I am at Key Biscayne, probably as far south as I will go in the US. Don't you love the name of this harbor? Talk about lame, but hey, it resonates with me regardless. I might be stuck here for a few days. Strong and or contrary winds look to predominate for a while. Being old and singlehanded makes one conservative. But this is not a bad place to be marooned. Will probably get to meet up with other Bahamas bound folks.

Best, Charlie

Not so secret anchorage

Here I am, in a 20 acre lake in North Miami Beach, surrounded by high rises. I am the only anchored boat. Talk about a fishbowl! 
Came down from Palm Beach, outside on the ocean to Ft. Lauderdale. Saved a ton of time an hassle, by avoiding bridges. Very pleasant outside there today. And I must say, the Lake Worth inlet is about the easiest on the east coast to negotiate. Straight, wide, deep, and short. Takes about 5 minutes and you're through.

Hope to get out of here relatively early and go visit a favorite, No Name Harbor. Brilliantly named, no? Windy and rough forecast means I will probably have to wait a few days for a crossing opportunity.

Cheers, Charlie

Laundry day

Yes, I know. Pretty mundane stuff to be writing about. But you can only ignore the laundry for so long. So I schlepped it over the bridge to a lower rent neighborhood where a laundromat was conveniently situated.And now I can live with myself again, for a few days at least.

I also spent a bunch of time enrolling in a supplemental Medicare policy. And you thought cruising was exciting. Later, I lifted the dinghy out of the water and set it on the foredeck, something I always do before going out on the ocean. I had noticed that the dinghy was acting sluggish, and had suspected that the bottom was getting pretty foul. Indeed it was! It was it's own marine laboratory, with a thick growth of all manner of marine organisms. There followed a good hour and a half of scraping, scrubbing, and sluicing the remnants off of the decks.

And that concluded another day of cruising!

Best to all, Charlie

A 3 mile day

Pulled the anchor at sunup and headed down to the harbor here at Palm Beach. Topped off fuel and water tanks, and reanchored in a rather sketchy place with ver few viable boats. Floating derelicts in other words. This is a common problem here in Florida as I believe I have mentioned before.

Managed to acquire the cruising guides I was looking for, but I struck out again on the oil filter. Sometimes it is the simple things that are really frustrating.

I thought briefly about sailing across to West End tomorrow, but after studying the charts and guidebooks, am realizing it would probably be better to cross from Miami to Bimini. I want my Bahamas cruise to start in the central section and save the more northerly Abacos for the spring. Hoping to go further south, on the ocean, on Tues.

Till then, Charlie

Work day

Continued with some varnish work, then headed below to work on the sanitation system. I need to have the option to discharge waste at sea, as pumpout facilities are practically nonexistent in the Bahamas. This involved some plumbing and electrical work and I had the interior all torn apart in order to accomplish it. I was done by noon. After lunch I made another provision run and lugged about 60 or 70 pounds worth back to the dinghy. Made another Medicare call. I am officially on Medicare starting tomorrow morning. I feel like a member of the club, so excited! Yeah, right..... Later, I walked 2 miles one way to buy another blanket so my guests can stay warm. Bought it at a Sears, no less, which is bankrupt but apparently still operating. It was actually a really nice store.

I have been surprisingly unsuccessful in finding a place to sell me a couple of Bahamas cruising guides. I specifically waited on getting these so I could get the latest editions and no one has anything available
 I mean the Bahamas are 50 miles away, and even West Marine doesn't have any. I am also in need of a portable radio that receives SSB and AMFM, with nothing found so far. Tomorrows quest.

Traffic here is unbelievable. But I took solace in the fact that everyone had to wait on these 6 and 8 lane roads when I passed under the other day in the boat. Literally hundreds of cars waiting.

Best to everyone, Charlie

Conveyor belt

T'was a bit of a nip in the air this morning, along with a cranking stiff breeze, so you may rest assured I was well swaddled in every article of clothing I could find. The chill kept the Floridians inside so the ICW was pretty well deserted. I pulled in to North Palm Beach and anchored around 2, after having negotiated 7 opening bridges, with all the attendant drama. I rowed ashore and headed to West Marine to pick up my new anchor and was happy to see it had actually been set aside as promised. Now, the only challenge was how to get it back to the boat. No taxi for a cheapskate like me. Blessed with a strong back, and a relatively weak mind, I simply hoisted it over my shoulder and nonchalantly headed down US 1 towards the anchorage. The highlight was crossing the 6 lanes of traffic at the light. I can only imagine the conversations in the cars. "Whoa, look at that idiot! What the heck is that?" And so on. But I did it.

Oh yeah. The conveyor belt. It felt like I was on one as I approached the Jupiter federal bridge this morning during maximum flood tide. Man, was that a strong current. I kept doing circles while waiting for the opening, and it was amazing how I just kept getting swept closer and closer. But it opened, and I shot thru the span like a ball from a cannon. Never in any real danger but it would be a very poor time to have a mechanical malfunction.

All the best, Charlie

Jensen Beach

Dropped the hook in a nondescript part of the ICW just south of a bridge to get some protection from a chilly north wind. Left Vero Beach around 9 AM and had an easy run today. Not much boat traffic. Talked with my daughter Mary, and she and a friend will be coming to meet me in the Bahamas for a 3 week cruise in  January. Mary is hoping to stay aboard for longer. Tomorrow, I hope to make Palm Beach where I will do some more provisioning. Food is double the price in the islands, so best to stock up now. And I will pick up my new anchor.

Best to all, Charlie

A view from the cockpit of White Seal a few weeks ago.

Foggy river shakedown

Headed out on the Indian River this morning in fine conditions but within a half hour I was socked in with pea soup fog, the likes of what one might see in Maine. I was even sounding the foghorn for a bit. Eventually, it lifted and turned into a delightful day. There was enough wind to hoist the sails but not enough to shut the engine down because I had made reservations for a mooring at Vero Beach and had to get there before dark. Got to be pretty busy out there what with it being Sunday and all. So here I am at Vero, with a shower and fresh laundry under my belt. Tomorrow I pick up that package, do an oil change, and maybe some other chores.

Cheers, Charlie

A bit belated, but here's a shot from biking around Jekyll Island in Georgia a few weeks ago!

Cocoa

Another short day, coming down about 12 miles to Cocoa. There is a West Marine store a very short distance from where I am anchored and I was looking to buy a Rocna anchor. Yes, it is time to embrace new technology and replace the CQR. Sadly, they do not have them in any size in stock. I have called ahead and should be able to get one in Palm Beach. It can be challenging to obtain equipment when you are on the move like this. Will try to get to Vero Beach tomorrow where I have a care package from my darling wife waiting for me. Had hoped to do some sailing on the Indian River but unusual southerly winds prevented me from doing so. Might get westerlies tomorrow which would be great. Haven't been able to sail since Cumberland Sound.

Charlie

Adios, Titusville

I bid my auntie farewell this morning and drove the rental car back to Titusville, dropping it off a bit before noon. It had been a great visit but I was anxious to return to the boat. After rowing out to the mooring with yet another load of low cost groceries I was shocked to see the decks covered with an amazing amount of bird poop. I mean they looked like the bottom of a bird cage. It took a considerable amount of effort and many buckets of water to remove the aftermath of the ultimate avian party hangout. Finishing that unpleasant task I got fuel and a pumpout, and headed out on the ICW. Only went about 8 miles and anchored for the night by the NASA causeway that leads out to Cape Canaveral. The adventure will continue in the morning!

Charlie 

Titusville

I am presently hunkered down for 5 days on a mooring in Titusville. My plan is to rent a car tomorrow and drive to Leesburg to visit my Aunt Dutch and my cousin Carl for Thanksgiving. And this town is a good place to lay in provisions as well, with the lowest prices I have seen anywhere for food. Examples include a carton of eggs for 59 cents, 8 ounces of cheddar cheese for $1.69, and and a bag of McIntosh apples for $2.69. I don't know how they do it. I mean, there aren't any apple orchards in Florida that produce Macs, and the cheese is half the price we pay back home, but just about everything is half price
 I will use the rental car to bring a large amount of food to the dock. I have already transported about 8 bags but it is slow going by foot. I also managed to get the propane tank filled. Since leaving Ferrisburgh a bit over 2 months ago I have used $8.03 worth of propane, cooking at least once a day. And, importantly, I was able to acquire a large stack of used books. Because Titusville is  particularly dreary town, these are proving to be a real blessing. Am about 600 pages into my first Tom Clancy novel. Not my typical genre, but really enjoying it.

Coming down this way gave me a look at a bit of Florida that hasn't been shattered by overpopulation and development. There was about 10 or 15 miles with practically nothing manmade,  along Mosquito Lagoon, and it was quite lovely. But I will be heading into the crucible of congestion again soon and expect that to change.

Happy Thanksgiving!
Charlie

Thanks for comments!

Thank you all- Marvin, Ellie, Plum Orchard friends, Buzz, Silas, Betsy, everyone! Trying to figure out how to respond to the comments and have not yet been successful. Please know that I greatly appreciate them ALL!

Charlie

Dystopia

Anchored in Daytona Beach, one of the most unappealing places I can think of. Hope none of my followers are from there..... The most noticeable thing is the noise. Traffic over the bridges which will likely be going all night. Caribbean Jack's bar, with Loud, bad music. That will probably keep going till 1 or 2, seeing that it is Saturday night. Throw in a dollop of ghastly, soul sucking architecture, lots of poorly muffled trucks and motorcycles,  and you begin to see why Charlie is not a big fan of Daytona. I will clear out in the morning!

Best, Charlie

St. Augustine

Not much to report. Hanging out here in St. A., having limited success getting chores done. Problem is no car. I was hoping to fill propane tank but suppliers equipment is broken down. Making some calls in Medicare Advantage plans. Got some groceries, but very long walk. Am going to help my friend Emily install some cockpit suppers on her boat tomorrow. Getting cold tonight, low 40's! Hope all is well with you readers out there. Oh, also, I am looking into a Rocna anchor, after a couple of dragging episodes.

Best, Charlie

Delightful Florida weather

Actually, there hasn't been any yet. Last night at Fernandina was like sleeping in a washing machine. For a big chunk of the night the strong tide opposed the 25 knot wind and it is hard to say who the victor was. The boat lay sideways to both forces while getting pummeled by the mooring ball on the bow, and bludgeoned by the dinghy on the stern. And I had to pay $21.40, for the privilege.  So I cleared out in the morning, saying goodbye to Doug, heading south in the rain. But there was only so much rain I could take, as well as a dearth of anchorages so I dropped the hook at 1:30 in another tide ridden spot. This time I deployed 2 anchors. My eyelids grow heavy, it is 7 PM and I am tired. Goodnight all, Charlie

Fernandina

Happy to report that I sailed down to Fernandina Beach this morning. It was only around 14 miles but there was a cranking good north wind and I took advantage of it. I had an anchor dragging incident last night which was disconcerting to say the least. Apparently, at the change of the tide last night at about 3, the anchor did not reset. There is a strong current and my guess is that the anchor got fouled in some way, like by a sunken branch, or similar. So I ended up 2 or 3 hundred yards north on the river, where it finally held. Doug had risen on his boat around 4, noticed things looked different, and texted me. In retrospect, given the current, I should have had 2 anchors out, in Bahamian fashion. I have gotten lazy, I am afraid. Since the wind has picked up and the current is strong here as well, I decided to rent a city mooring. I just hope it is better maintained than the one I rented on the Hudson!

Best, Charlie

Beach day

Much cooler today, a real relief after temps in the 80's. Gentle northerly breeze with increasing sunshine as the day proceeded. Doug and I walked about 2 and a half miles to the ocean beach and it was well worth the effort. We crested the dunes and we were the only beings there, save for a couple of groups of wild horses, who regarded us with suspicion.  We walked and beachcombed for a considerable time and eventually sighted a couple of people off in the distance,  heading our way. When they came up we had a nice visit and found they had been camping further north on the island. We made our way back to our boats and rested our weary feet for a few hours before getting together for a final evening gam and hot cocoa on my boat.

It doesn't sound like a particularly exciting day, but the pleasure of walking through a mature live oak forest like this is pretty special. I must make a confession,  however. As a woodworker, I am constantly looking at these beautiful trees and imagining cutting them up for lumber. I need to be kept on a short leash!

Charlie

A Special Place

I left Jekyll Island early this morning and headed out St. Andrew's Sound in foggy conditions with very little wind. The tide was in flood stage which made for relatively safe crossing conditions. My focus was in making it safely to the outermost buoy before beginning my turn into my destination, Cumberland Island. Once around the buoy the northern bluff of the island loomed through the mist, wild and untamed, save for a lighthouse, and a small unobtrusive camp clinging to the incline. Surf generated from the Atlantic pounded the shore. An otherworldly forest of live oak, southern pine, and draped with Spanish moss rounded out the picture. I continued inland, away from the ocean, and paralleled the shore for a few miles and left the intracoastal waterway to head up the Brickhill River. No aids to navigation, but the few shoals were easily  avoided by referencing my chart. The fog increased in intensity and added to the feeling of darkness and foreboding. And yet, it was beautiful. After several more miles I anchored at Plum Orchard, a mansion built by the Carnegie family, who used to own most of the island. I was the only boat. By this time the fog was burning off, and I went ashore. Truly massive live oaks grace the grounds and create a stunning setting for the 24,000 square foot cottage. Wandering wild horses, foraging armadillos, and a plethora of bird life complete the picture. A bit later on, several other visitors showed up and the caretaker gave us all a tour of the house. My friend Doug came in on his boat in the afternoon and we toured the house again. We will likely hike across the island tomorrow to see a wild ocean beach unlike any other on the east coast, mainly because it is typically devoid of people. Looking forward to reporting more tomorrow!

Charlie

Jekyll

Short day today. Decided to spend it at Jekyll Island, which is yet another beautiful sea isle. It was an opportunity to do some laundry, which was waaaaay overdue, and grab a shower as well. I also had the use of a bicycle which was included in the landing fee. This is about as nice an area I have ever seen for riding, with excellent paths going everywhere. Live oaks and Spanish moss dominate. Lovely beaches, laid back residents, what's not to like? I would stay longer but I am not crazy about the anchorage, so will leave in the morning for Cumberland Island. Hoping to meet up again with Doug from VT on Breakaway.

Best, Charlie

It's not perfect

This morning I encountered a certain little insect that resides in these parts and is known as a no see um. I had spent the night aboard with nary a problem and so I nonchalantly made my way up on deck to get underway. They materialized instantly, from nowhere, going immediately into my hair, mouth, ears, and nose, biting relentlessly as they went. I retreated quickly to the cabin and procured a can of Off, which I figured would poison the little cretins. Alas, the spray nozzle didn't work. I fiddled around with the orifice, contemplated cutting the can open, but decided that the potential for injury and toxic shock was too high. After a heartfelt curse delivered at the Off corporation, the designer of the spray can, and his forebears for 10 generations, I hustled back on deck and retrieved the anchor at warp speed. The bugs bit incessantly and since both of my hands were occupied I shook my head wildly to keep the bugs away. It didn't work. Finally, I secured the anchor, left the muddy mess where it lay, ran aft, shoved the engine into gear and gave it full throttle. The breeze created by the movement blew them away.

It turned out to be another lovely day, but I couldn't stop thinking about all of the spray can nozzle failures I have had in my lifetime....

Cattle pen creek

That is the colorful name of my latest anchorage, next to St. Catherine's Island. This is a rather remote area that has seen only a light touch of the human hand, mainly in the form of navigational aids. One thing that really impressed me was St. Catherine's Sound. This is a good sized inlet that remains untouched. Ossabaw Island on the north side, St. Catherine's on the south, both uninhabited as near as I can tell, and they form a place of great beauty. It was pretty special to traverse that body of water.

I only did 40 miles and decided to take advantage of another fine anchorage, rather than push on at dead low tide. I still managed to run aground at the creek entrance. No big deal . Got in the dinghy and took soundings to ascertain the deeper water. A 5 minute delay. Tides rule around here.

All the best, Charlie

Day tripper

That's what I was as I boarded a city bus and headed into Savannah this morning. It was raining, and rather bleak out if I may say. A long ride, close to an hour, through some rather gritty parts of town. As we passed over the ICW bridge I thought about the amazing infrastructure we have in this country. A couple of days ago that bridge had opened for me, shutting down 4 very busy lanes of traffic, so the lowly White Seal could pass, with no delay at all. Quite remarkable and no charge is levied.

When I arrived in the city I went through a small museum at the visitors center and then went walking for miles until my feet and legs begged me for relief . It is a lovely town, particularly with the regularly spaced small parks in the old section. A docent insisted that the historic district was bigger than the one in Charleston. Well, I hate to rain on her parade, but I am going to stick my neck out here and submit that there is no comparison with Charleston.

I was also hoping to find some information on Edward Langworthy, who had been a delegate to the Continental Congress from Georgia, but did not find anything new. We do not appear to be related , especially as most of the Langworthys started out in New England. But fun to look.

Probably head out in the morning. Next cold front will be here before I know it.

Best, Charlie

Gentle rain

Hunkered down, here on White Seal, in a very secure anchorage near Savannah. Did a bit of maintenance this morning before the rain. Went ashore and picked up a copy of the NYT. That has kept me occupied for hours, but has also been quite depressing. Sometimes it may be better to be out of the loop, anchored in a swamp, and nothing to read but fiction.

But all in all, it is rather satisfying to be on your own small boat, many miles from home, casting an eye on a part of the world that is different and exciting and new. I guess that is why I find myself engaged in this sort of exercise from time to time.

I do hope to get in to Savannah tomorrow. It is a lovely town and I look forward to describing it to you tomorrow evening.

Best, Charlie

Savannah

Left Beaufort under sail, which was nice for a change. Favorable tide helped. But the bulk of the day was under power. Nice sunny day, and on the cool side. Slept poorly last nite due to a cold front that blew thru. Did not drag at all, but the sound of the gusts all night kept me unsettled. Anchored this evening in Turner Creek, just past town of Thunderbolt. Pretty beat, and ready to turn in. May try day trip to Savannah tomorrow.

Charlie

Factory Creek anchorage

Pulled in to Beaufort yesterday around noon and decided to spend today staying put. Been a bit rainy on and off, but not too bad overall. I made 2 trips to the supermarket, 1 mile each way, lugging back sustenance for a few more days. My fellow singlehander Doug showed up and we had a nice gam ,discovering just how many other Vermonters we both knew, always an amazing exercise.  And, drumroll please, I signed up for Medicare. One of those things you are always dimly aware of in the back of your mind, but never believe you will actually get there.

Forecast looks pretty good for tomorrow so I guess I will head out for Georgia.

Best to all, Charlie

Beaufort bound

That is pronounced Bewfert, by the way. Not Bofert, like the town in NC. Should get there tomorrow and do some grocery shopping. Never got around to it in Charleston, since I was having too much fun walking around with Doug Ford, another Vermont boater I met at the megadock. He is also singlehanding his boat south with an eventual goal of the Bahamas. Great to run into other Vermonters! I was also surprised and delighted to have a visit from Betsy Etchells, who was visiting her mother in Charleston, saw on my blog that I was nearby, and came to pay me a visit at the megadock. She will corroborate my account of the number, size, and value of nautical toys of the .01 percent! Betsy is a resident of Ferrisburgh and an active member of the Historical Society along with me.

Tonight, I have left behind the glam and glitter of Charleston and am anchored again in a lovely area of the lowcountry near the Ashepoo and Coosaw rivers.

Cheers, Charlie

Charleston

What a lovely town! Like Georgetown this place is the antithesis of Myrtle Beach. It is a smorgasboard of lovely architecture. I may try and stay another day. The only challenge is that the marina is booked solid for tomorrow and the anchorage is a bit sketchy. One thing that is rather hilarious is that the marina put me on the mega dock, where all the megayachts congregate to see and be seen. The boat next to me is a 120 foot Benetti, with  a Feadship at least that big next in line. Both of these boats are at least 10 million dollars. And there are at least a half dozen more, probably in the 90 foot range, and another dozen at 80. Sandwiched in between is the humble looking White Seal, looking a bit out of place. But also on the mega dock, I met another Vermonter, with whom I had a great visit. He has the second smallest boat on the dock. But we are ok with it all. We don't have full time crews to keep everything shiny, but we sure get a lot of good use from our boats.

Best, Charlie

Low country

I just love it down here. Even though I was motoring all day against wind and tide it is just beautiful. Down Winyaw Bay, then through a series of interconnected marshes, with tree covered hummocks scattered about. Most of it was devoid of human habitation. Occasionally a small fishing boat hove into view and we would exchange a wave as we passed. Another lovely anchorage this evening that looks familiar. I bet I've stayed here before. But the tempo will pick up tomorrow as I enter Charleston harbor. I will keep you posted!

Charlie

Deep south

In Georgetown, South Carolina, with live oak, Spanish moss, lovely architecture, a traditional main street, and a real sense of place. The polar opposite of Myrtle Beach! I was able to stock up on provisions at the local Piggily Wiggili and procure a couple of articles of clothing at a delightful clothing store on Front Street. Walking around the old part of town is delightful. Bit of a smell from the paper mill, though.

The next portion of the trip is through what I consider to be a really beautiful area, from Georgetown to St. Augustine. This will include Charleston, Savannah, and the sea islands of Georgia, most notably the gem of Cumberland Island.  If anyone would be interested in joining me for some or all of this, let me know. I should be in Charleston in a couple of days.

Best to all, Charlie

Secret anchorage

Looks like a day or two of poor weather coming up so I decided to push through to my favorite anchorage on the East Coast. I discovered it 34 years ago just after having bought my boat and sailing north in the spring. Here is why I like it. 360 degree protection. The largest waves will be about 2 inches high in a gale force wind. It is completely surrounded by mud and soft grass. Steep banks prevent groundings. Nothing manmade. Nobody else comes here, that I have ever seen, therefore no one can drag in to me. Depth is perfect, a consistent 9 to 10 feet at low tide. If there is a negative, it is that a fairly good current runs through the creek and that can cause the usual annoyances when wind and tide oppose. The only hint I will give is that it is in South Carolina. The first time I came here I remember climbing the mast after dark and being able to see just 1 light off in the distance. Sadly, that is no longer true, but it is still a pretty quiet place.

Best to all, Charlie

Architectural critic

Hi everyone,
Here is an area in which I have zero qualifications but I can no longer keep my mouth shut. As I am motoring along the developed parts of the ICW I cannot help but be struck by the shockingly bad taste on full display. The houses, in most cases are placed as by jowl next to each other, and they are mostly huge, yet screaming cheap. Every sort of embellishment and doodad is sprouting up in all directions. The houses are typically separated by 15 or 20 feet and they all hire the same landscapers. But what really kills me are the docks. Everyone just has to have one. They consist of innumerable pilings marching out for hundreds of feet to the edge of the channel. There will be some sort of tacky turnabout in a lift, and then a gazebo. So you go no more than 40 or 50 feet and you have another 2 or 3 hundred foot dock with another crappy boat and a gazebo with a fake eagle on top. I don't think these folks realize how trashy and soul sucking the effect is. And these places cost a ton of money. Meanwhile, the undeveloped shoreline is simply sublime. Maybe it's just me.....

In South Carolina now!

Best to all, Charlie

All tuckered out

Too tired to blog! In Carolina Beach. More bad weather coming Friday. Stay tuned!

Charlie

Quiet night.....I hope

This evening finds me anchored in the belly of the beast, Camp Lajeune, that is. Actually, the military is kind enough to let cruising folk anchor in a basin just off the ICW. The only drawback is that you may get disturbed during the night by maneuvers. I just know I misspelled that word!

I did survive the latest gale and awoke this morning to light winds, which meant another day of motoring. I am feeling quite remorseful about how much I have run the motor. When I was younger, I sailed a much higher percentage of the time. But the waterway was less crowded and I had the motivation and strength to do the constant work involved. It is too easy to hit the starter button. Probably more of the same tomorrow, given the light winds predicted.

There has been a great deal of blue poly on rooftops around here, a legacy of Florence. And I wonder, as I travel through the area, what are these people thinking? The flooding was bad enough, but what if a storm like Michael hits this area? It is only a matter of time.

Charlie

Hunkered down, again

The last time I received a forecast that called for 45 knot winds, we got hammered by much higher. We are under a gale warning so I decided to seek shelter in a well protected marina here in Beaufort.

Pulled in here at about 10:30 AM. I was happy to see that hurricane damage did not seem that bad. There is still some debris around town, and there were a number of men repairing the marina building's roof so there is no doubt there was a storm, but not devastation. There was also the sobering sight of a couple of good sized sunken sailboats getting raised out in the harbor.

I plan to stay for a couple nights and head out Monday morning. Need to do laundry, too up fuel, water, and so on. Plus, this is a real nice town to just walk around in!

Best, Charlie

Oriental.......someday

Started off the morning with a couple of lovely hours under sail but that came to an end as I turned dead downwind into the Pamlico River and slowed to a crawl. The wind became quite light and I motored for the rest of the day. It was my hope to stop at the town of Oriental, which I have failed to stop at over the years. Nowadays, they have a webcam that you can check the status of the free dock with. Check it I did, and was happy to see it was empty. Checked later, uh oh, one boat. Then, as I was actually approaching the town I checked one last time . Filled up. I was crushed. So much for fresh groceries and camaraderie. Instead, I am stuck in an unappealing anchorage with boring food and no entertainment. No matter, on to Beaufort tomorrow!

Best to all,  Charlie

Out of the swamp

It was great being in the swamp, known as the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. It is a big place, and hard to believe it can exist here on the East Coast given the unrelenting pressure of human population growth in this country. Here is an idea of the size. I sailed into the Alligator River yesterday from Albemarle Sound in the late morning. Other than the navigation Mark's the only thing man made that was visible was the busy bridge headed to the Outer Banks. The bridge was at mile 84. The next manmade item was a house at about mile 123 with a for sale sign on it. Otherwise, just trees and marsh, with a few low flying fighter jets. I guess the wildlife constituency is poorly represented.  People wouldn't put up with the noise. This land contains a handful of the only red wolves in the world, and a large number of black bear. I anchored for the night in the middle of the refuge and it was pretty nice. This morning I continued on to Belhaven, a nice little town where I have stayed before.

Cha

Wine and cheese

Spent the day in Elizabeth City and did some routine maintenance on the engine. Also visited the Museum of the Albemarle which was a real treat. And finally, a few other boats arrived, precipitating one of the famous Rose Buddy gatherings for which the city is known. See, a few years back, a couple of local retired gents took it upon themselves to greet the visiting boaters with a party on the docks and Rose's for all the women. These two men have passed on, but their memory is alive and well, with protege carrying the torch forward. When 5 or more boats show up, a nice little party ensues and everyone gets to meet their fellow companions on this southbound trek. Afterward, I joined Dave and Paul, of a Stone Horse sloop, and an Alberg 35 yawl for a nice meal and conversation aboard Paul's yawl. These two guys are a wealth of knowledge on North Carolina waters and I hope I get to cross paths again.

I may head out down the Albemarle tomorrow if the weather is acceptable.

Till then, Charlie

Through the swamp

Lovely day! Quite warm, nice breeze. But it was on the nose and the route was generally very narrow, so it was all motor, for almost 9 hours. The drug portion f the canal is rather monotonous but you really have to be on your toes to avoid hitting trees overhead and submerged logs below. This part of the canal is so narrow it is very difficult to turn the boat around. I know, because I had to do it at one point. The Pasquotank River is the real gem. Gorgeous! Felt like passing through the forest primeval.

Arrived in Elizabeth City  around 3 and was very surprised to find myself the only boat. No greater as in previous years. A couple of demolished boats adorning the pier next door. I schlepped into town with a big load of rancid laundry and when I came back met Paul, who had come in with an Alberg 35 of a vintage similar to mine. We will get together tomorrow for a visit.

I am in the south now. I was passed by a little Jon boat that had 2 gigantic flags flying, one US, and one Confederate. At the courthouse there was a monument to the Confederate heroes and a sign that referred to the burning of the original by Federal troops. There are also some of the small palette trees around,  first I have seen. And, the first mosquitoes I have seen on the trip. Time to put up the netting!

Take care, Charlie

Into the swamp

Bid farewell to Tom Hickley this morning. We had a really great time together aboard and I will miss him very much. He didn't plan on getting walloped by the storm, but accepted the punishment with grace. Hoping he joins me again. And we have both become infatuated with the traditional small craft of Chesapeake Bay.

Tonight I am tied up to a bulkhead on the Dismal Swamp canal and am hoping to push thru to Elizabeth  City tomorrow. No worries about storms on this body of water!

Best to all, Charlie

Wow

Two days ago my friend Tom and I hunkered down in a little creek in Reedville, Virginia and awaited a visit from Tropical Storm Michael. It was a lovely day with no outward sign of what was forecast to come. We enjoyed a visit to the Fishermans Museum there and both of us decided we really need to build a Chesapeake style boat. It is hard not to be seduced by the lovely working watercraft around here.

Back on the boat, we ran a second anchor out to the northwest, based on the forecast. We had selected a spot in the bend of the creek that offered great protection, and soft muddy shores that would offer a cushion should the anchors fail and we were to blow ashore. There were a couple of potential hazards in the form of a private dock, and 3 pilings set up as bird nesting platforms. We were the only boat anchored in the cove.

The rain began at 6:30 and quickly became torrential in nature. The wind had been forecast to be SE at 15 to 25 but as the daylight disappeared it came from due east in the 30 to 40 range. Thankfully there were no real waves. And then, as the guests increased in strength, we started to drag. Soon, we were aground, and my memory becomes a bit blurry at this point. Tom and I worked feverishly in the driving rain to deploy  a third anchor, and to winch the boat away from the shore with the aid of the engine. Eventually, we were successful and got refloated and holding well. After a brief respite we then got an anchor redeployed to the NW, which is where the forecasters said the next blast would come from. And come it did, a little before midnight. This was a whole new order of magnitude, and sounded like someone had turned a fire hose into the boat. On deck we had to really hang on and avert our faces from the force. I realized immediately there was no way to do much of an ything and we just kind of hoped for the best.  We did drag the anchor for a ways, and then, it held. A 20 pound Danforth Hi Tensile, by the way. Before it grabbed we had ended up between 2 of the bird nest pilings, and by sheer stupid luck not hitting either. For the rest of the night we tried to rest down below, checking our position regularly, and listening to the intense gusts blasting the boat. The power on shore had gone out and there were only a handful of lights visible due to generators. As dawn approached the wind died down to a pleasant 25 and around 7am we reanchored the boat in her original spot. The day found us too wiped out to do anything so we took it easy and recovered. 

Today we sailed down to Hampton where we are tied up at a nice solid dock with zero chance of inclement weather in the forecast. Looking forward to a peaceful nights sleep!

Pleasant anchorages to all!

Charlie

Memories

Some of you may not know that I have been doing this cruising thing for quite a long time. In fact, the first time I made this trip was 46 years ago, in 1972, aboard my father's schooner. And I was the captain, from Norfolk to Charleston. There has been enormous change in the intervening years, mainly due to the unbridled population growth of the US. Huge areas have been developed into marinas, condos, golf courses, restaurants, and luxury homes. Much of this development should not have occured and will likely be removed by hurricane action over the next few decades. Amazingly enough, there are still some stunningly beautiful areas along the east coast, a testament to forward thinking people to whom I am eternally grateful. 

Best to all, Charlie 

Solomon's Island

Pleasant day, with about a third of it under sail, rest under power. Definitely feeling a bit like a motorboat. Going to wait here for my friend Tom Hickley, who will come on Tues. While waiting for him I hope to do some projects, and also monitor tropical storm Michael, which may impact us on Thursday.

Charlie

Boat show and onward

I was shocked to see just how big the Annapolis sailboat show was. And exhausted after having walked miles during the course of the day. It was actually quite a bit of fun, especially going through the various tents and talking to ancillary product vendors. As far as the boats themselves, I would have to say that I have seen the future, and by and large I do not like it. Smoked plexiglass, decals, drink holders, cavernous interiors, and all manner of unnecessary complications seem to be the order of the day. Hundreds of years of slow and careful ev olution in yacht design have been consigned to the   rubbish heap, as bean counters, marketing people, and interior designers have taken over. But since I no longer have to work on these boats, I am OK with it all. As I walked along the docks I thought of how the boat buying public is trying to buy a dream, often at a cost of hundreds of thousands of dollars, and yet here I am, actually doing it, at a fraction of the cost. And I see the huge marinas, filled with hundreds of boats, that never go anywhere. And feel a bit of sadness, for all those thwarted adventurers, hoping, one day, to cast off the lines, and free themselves from the shackles of modern day life.I wish they could all experience a long cruise in a small boat.

Left Annapolis this morning and mostly motored to Galesville for a change of scenery. Quiet town, Lots of marinas. Will head further south tomorrow.

Best to all, Charlie

Annapolis

Left the anchorage at Still Pond this morning and made my way down the bay to Annapolis where I anchored in our old spot at Weems Creek. A half mile walk brought me to a supermarket where I was able to replenish the larder. The plan is to attend the boat show tomorrow, and it should be quite the event given all of the tents, flags, and banners visible to the left of the Naval Academy as I came in.

Met a delightful couple on the Plover last evening at Still Pond, and one of the great things about cruising is that we share mutual friends on other boats. They were returning from a summer in Nova Scotia. We also made an exchange of books, as it appears we are all voracious readers. Hope to run into Bill and Chris again soon. I might see them at the show along with fellow Vermonters Linda and Nile, who are anchored over at Spa Creek.

Also at the show, I am hoping I might be able to procure a hamburger, something I have been dreaming about for days. Another interesting bit of dietary information, especially for those that know me, is that I walked right by the chocolate in the store, with no desire to partake. I will confess that I have had a mug of hot cocoa on several occasions, but I am trying to reduce my sugar consumption.  But boy, I am going to enjoy that burger!

Best, Charlie

Chesapeake

Another great day! Nice to have 3 days of good weather in a row. Enjoyed great alignment of tide and wind to make it all the way from Cape May, up the Delaware Bay and thru the C&D canal. Nice quiet anchorage on the Bohemia River . A nice dollop of corned beef hash for dinner an I have retired to the forepeak for a restful sleep. But remember, I haven't had a real shower for a week, the laundry needs to be classified as a potential biohazard,  and the food....well I did just mention hash. Some of the less romantic byproducts of cruising on a small boat! Anyone want to come along for a few days?

Charlie

Up all night

Given the good forecast I decided to do the 120 miles of the Jersey shore in one shot. This meant hauling up the anchor yesterday morning at 0630 and leaving Atlantic Highlands where I had spent the night. This stretch of coast can be arduous and I did not want to get stuck for days in some unappealing backwater like Atlantic City waiting for weather to improve. The wind was quite light so after clearing the turbulent and busy Sandy Hook channel, I kept the motor running so as to maintain a speed of 6 knots. There was quite a parade of boats heading out after days of bad weather and I bet I was passed by a good $200 million in yachts. It was a beautiful day but I kept the engine running until 8 PM, when a really nice land breeze kicked in. The silence was nice. At 10 I made a routine look over my shoulder and was startled to see a large reddish light directly a stern, and was chagrined to find out it was nothing more than the moon. With that addition the night sailing was delightful. The aforementioned Atlantic City was the only annoyance, a temple to greed, waste, and avarice, using untold amounts of kilowatt hours to light up the night sky for miles. Reaching Cape May at at about 2 AM, I jogged back and forth in a type of heaving too until daybreak, when good light and a flood tide made entrance east. A couple of hours of rest and time to get ready for Delaware Bay, tomorrow.

A tired Charlie

Sandy Hook

Hi everyone,

Had a good run down to the Anchorage at Sandy Hook, NJ. Was going to wait till 1 PM to take advantage of the ebb tide but the rolling of the boat on the mooring was so brutal I left at 1130 instead. Casting of I headed out into the river and hoisted just the main. I motorsailed, like I have mostly been doing, in order to get through the insanity that is the harbor as quickly as possible. It really is stunning, visually, but you have to be 110% to avoid disaster. One thing I noticed was a huge Coast Guard presence which was because of the UN being in session.

Wow, 20 minutes of writing on this pathetic little keyboard and most of it just disappeared. I can't face writing it all again, so I will just say I am safely at Sandy Hook with a bunch more rain on the way.

Best to all, Charlie

NYC contnued

Sorry for no post yesterday. Low battery plus unrelentingly bad weather kept me hunkered below on    boat all day. I did finish reading Column of Fire by Ken Follett which I thought was great. It came in at over 900 pages so I stayed engaged. Today, things brightened up a bit and I joined our former housemate Dominic for an insider's walking tour of this section of the West Side. I gotta say, this city is crazy. No way could I ever live here, with the constant noise and tumult that pervades all. With reasonable weather, I will be out of here in the morning.

Charlie

Big A pple

Goo into the 79th Street Boat Basin and picked up a mooring. This has to be one of the better deals in this overpriced town at 30 bucks a night. 3 blocks up the hill to Broadway. I'll stay at least 2 nights, given the crummy forecast. Visiting our friend Dominick tomorrow, who will acquaint me with the city a bit.It n riverside  my hope that this mooring holds up better than the last one.

I motorsailed down here today. Good breeze, but inconsistent Needed to get here early in order to get a mooring, which are first come, first served. Went ashore for a bit and picked up some provisions. Starting to get dark and I am hoping for a quiet evening of reading. Although, with the incessant driving  on Riverside Drive, that may be wishful thinking.

Best to all, Charlie

72 miles

The cool temps got me motivated to move, and move I did, getting underway at 7. Anchored at Haverstraw Bay a couple of minutes past 6. I will say it again, the Hudson is spectacular. It is like the proverbial unrolling of a tapestry, and you are just taking it all in. I kept thinking about the Hudson River school of painting, and I understand. The trees have a certain lushness and attitude, that I don't see elsewhere. The varied terrain, rocky outcrops here, sand and marsh elsewhere. The color of water, cloud, and sky. And then then the man made elements. Those run the gamut. From towering industrial structures to exquisite country estates. The most beautiful Victorian lighthouses I have seen. What a day!

Charlie
.

Mast up

Thanks to the help of Peppi and Dave, of let it be my mast is back up and I managed about 3 hours under sail annnd a couple more under power when the wind fizzled out. And the Hudson is still spectacularly beautiful.  It was a vicious river yesterday however, as I got thrashed by high winds and contrary  tides. It culminated in my mooring breaking last night at about 8. I noticed calmer conditions and stuck my head up for a gander, only to find that I was on the other side of the river. Starting the engine I backed away from the shore and returned to the other side where I tried, unsuccessfully to pick up another mooring. It was dark and blowing a solid 30. So I went back across and tied up at the club dock. Gave the broken hardware to the dockmaster who was very apologetic. Once again I received a lesson, that is, never trust someone else's mooring or ground tackle!

Charlie

Great rowing practice

Sitting here on a mooring at the Castleton Boat Club and just found out that I can get wi-fi here on the far side of the river so I am taking advantage of using a real keyboard. There has been some excellent rowing practice to be had, what with rowing back and forth across the Hudson in a stiff breeze, with gusts over 30. Add in the current and it can be quite exciting. The procedure is to look up and down the river to see what sort of boat traffic there is and then go for it, conditions permitting.

I was delighted to see a small boat coming down the river with its mast on deck, and pull into the boat club. Rowing over, I wasted no time introducing myself and offering to help them with their mast, explaining that I  was singlehanding and could use a bit of similar assistance when finished with theirs. Dave and Pepe, Canadians both, agreed to participate and we hope to do the work early tomorrow morning. They've got a 27 footer, mast stepped on deck, so it should be very straightforward. They are happy to get the help, because it is a new experience for them. Pepe is the owner, and relatively new to sailing.

It has been very windy and the tidal current has been strong so White Seal has been thrashing about a bit on her mooring with the dinghy bumping into the topsides on a regular and annoying basis. What happens is that the big boat is affected more by the current, and the little one is affected by the wind, so the two are constantly butting heads with each other as in a gladiatorial contest.

I've taken the opportunity today to do a ton of reading from a book that Mary, my mother in law gave me, a 900 page novel by Ken Follett which is very good. It is much cooler and with the wind I gave up on doing much of anything on deck. But I gotta get that mast up and get going!

Charlie

Tides!

White Seal is back in a tidal environment again, after having gone through the Federal lock this morning. Am currently waiting to get the mast restepped, and that may be problematic given the strong winds forecast for tomorrow. I may end up motoring another 40 miles to a place that has better protection
. Should be a nice evening to settle in with a good book. Best to all, Charlie

Another night in Waterford

Roger left around 1 and I was very sorry to see him go. Did some maintenance and a small load of laundry. Installed new LED anchor light. Will go to Castleton on the Hudson and hopefully get the mast stepped tomorrow. Met a nice couple on a power cat tied up here and exchanged stories of cruising with teenagers.

Charlie

Waterford town docks

Hi everyone!

It did it again. I was just about done typing and everything disappeared except for the words Hi everyone. I will try again tomorrow.

Charlie

Sorry!

Typed up a big entry, touched the wrong button, and it disappeared!

Mast down

Man, am I beat! Out in the blazing hot sun, removing the boom, loosening turnbuckles, folding sails, etc. and thinking that this is not representative of September in Vermont. All performed during the middle of the day in order to ensure the maximum level of discomfort. Made me feel like I was back on the time clock. However, it allowed me to get the mast unstepped which is always kind of a big deal. Chip Taub, who owns the marina here actually worked with me at the boat shop back about 25 years ago and it is great as always to see him. He is one heck of a busy guy here for the entire summer. He does allow that he has some free time in January and February. This is probably one of the coolest marinas around, based on a couple of very old stone warehouses that date back to the old canal days.

While I was getting the mast ready, one of our old Bahamas acquaintances walked up and said hello. Kevin and Debbie were on the boat Grace and I remember meeting them if I remember correctly in Daytona Beach. They have been going south every winter for the last 9 years and I hope to get some updates from them before I leave in the morning.

My friend and neighbor Roger is showing up tomorrow morning to help me take the boat through the locks. An extra hand is greatly appreciated for this section due to the propensity of the boat to move around dramatically when water is being let in to the chamber. No real problems going down in the locks, it is more of a concern when going up. There can be considerable turbulence.

This morning was very leisurely, as I had only a short distance to go to reach the marina where I am now. The sunrise, under the guns of the fort, was spectacular. Fog shrouded the wooded terrain, and blanketed the water until the slightest touch of a breeze started to blow it away. I did some general housekeeping and maintenance work. I may have the chance to do a bit more in the morning before Roger comes.

I found out from Chip that there is a very shallow spot in the channel, several miles south of here in Benson.  This may be very tricky and I intend to approach it at a dead slow speed and prepare to go bump. If necessary, we can anchor temporarily, or just run softly aground, then sound a passage with the aid of the dinghy. We have a draft of 5'8'', which represents the amount of water we need to float. I remember this same spot being a concern 8 years ago. But the water is even lower now than it was then.

Charlie

Underway

Slipped the mooring under sail at 11:05. Meg waving from the shore. No hoopla, no marching bands. After taking an hour to reach Diamond Island,1 1/2 miles, I caved in and motored till 5. Currently anchored under the guns of Fort Ticonderoga. Cooked up a nice dinner and am watching the sun go down. Also enjoying the intoxicating sound of a jet ski, dashing aimlessly to and fro.

Final Provisioning and Goodbyes

Today was spent schlepping another big load out to the boat and attempting to stow it away. A few more smallish items in the morning should complete the job. I just checked the weather forecast and it looks like very light southerly winds, becoming light and variable. Had been hoping to sail down to Ticonderoga, but that may be wishful thinking and it may be necessary to exercise the motor. Not too happy about that, but we will see what tomorrow brings.

Paid a visit to my wife Meg's mom, who is living in an assisted care home in Middlebury. She is quite excited to follow the trip, as she has done in the past. We also received bon voyage visits from our friends Jim and Elise Blair, and Douglas and Catherine Brooks. Spoke as well with other friends and neighbors, both landbound and aquatic.

Tomorrow is our anniversary, Meg and I having been married for 28 years. It was 8 years ago tomorrow that we left for our family cruise, having taken our daughter out of her sophomore year of high school. I am going to miss her so much and will be looking forward to having her join me at some point down south. She will be my support system back home and given modern technology we will be talking on a very regular basis. This is the toughest part of leaving on a trip like this and I worry to no end about whether it is the right thing to do.

It's also very hard to leave a beautiful place like Vermont, especially this time of year, when the temperatures have moderated and the air is fresh and clear. Walking around the property, looking at the buildings, and the home which I love so much, makes me aware of how much more than usual I appreciate it, knowing it will soon be a more distant memory. Something that I will appreciate with a real intensity upon my return. There is something about casting off a mooring, then returning to that same mooring, many months later, with thousands of miles under your keel, that gives you a sense of appreciation.

Charlie

Here I Go Again

It was about a week ago that I made the decision to sail south for the winter on  White Seal, a boat that I have owned since 1984. It has kept me busy, taking care of maintenance tasks, laying in provisions, and finally, the most daunting project, setting up this blog. As many will attest, I have an aversion to all things digital, and yet am in need of a platform to stay in touch with family and friends as I make my south along the coast.

To that end, I purchased a cell phone, the first one of my own, actually, and am gradually becoming less terrified by its use as the days pass. I am astounded that AT&T would sell that kind of technological device to someone as unqualified as myself, but I guess that in todays world, competency is not a precursor to ownership. There will be other intimidating lessons to learn as I attempt to post photos on to this site, and to establish something called a hotspot so I can use the laptop computer with its more user friendly keyboard; but I am confident that will happen soon enough.

More about this upcoming journey. This will be the fifth cruise of this type on the White Seal during my ownership. I have also been along the coast several other times on other boats as well, with the first trip being made around 1974 on my father's schooner, the Sea Song. I don't know why I keep doing this sort of thing, since there is a large amount of discomfort, expense, fear, and general hassle involved. But it seems that every so often, I must. It helps that I retired from my job several months ago and theoretically have more time on my hands. My wife Meg, and daughter Mary have been telling me I should do this while I am still in decent health and able to sail the boat comfortably by myself. Mary is hoping to join me for some extensive cruising in the islands of the Bahamas, where we cruised as a family about 8 years ago. You can read her account of that adventure by accessing her blog at marysyearofcruising.blogspot.com. In spite of her young age at the time, I suspect that her account will be eminently more readable than that of her fathers!

I have been working on the boat this summer with the idea in the back of my mind that I might be going south, so it is not like I had to start at square one a week ago. But there has still been plenty to do. And there are some tasks that will get completed while underway. Fortunately, White Seal is an extremely simple boat without complex systems and I am able to perform most tasks myself. Keeping busy has also been an effective way to keep my mind off the worries that tend to creep in, those that fall in to the category of self doubt. But I need to avoid diving too far into self analysis at this early stage. Better to verify that this posting to a blog actually works. So, without further ado, welcome to my blog and lets see what happens when I hit the publish button!

Cheers, Charlie