Monday, February 25, 2019

Elizabeth Harbour Race

Hi all,

Yesterday turned out to be another delightful day and well suited for racing. And I am happy to report that people were very well behaved! Mary had invited Dave and Sue, from the softball team, and they joined us a bit before 9AM. We left the dinghy tied to the anchor line and pitched the excess line into the dinghy, thusly reserving our prime spot in the anchorage.

The course was probably a total of 5 miles and wholly confined within the harbour. A significant portion went right through the anchored boats. Starts were low pressure, since your boat time was taken as you crossed the line. I am guessing there were about 2 dozen boats racing. We sailed well, but, as in the other race I was using my ancient working jib, and our nemisis, the Tanzer 29, was able to sail consistently higher. I am embarrassed to say that they beat us boat for boat! It was very well sailed, and in fact was the overall winner of the monohulls for the day. They did not do as well in the other race, getting knocked around on the ocean. I met the owner, Michael of Quebec City, and congratulated him. He is a really nice guy, not in the least puffed up with his success on the course. We got yet another 3rd place in our class. There were 6 or 7 boats in the class. We might get some rum at the awards ceremony tomorrow.

Best to all, Charlie

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Round the island race

Hi everyone,

Mary and I did the around the island race yesterday and had a great time. The race is 19 miles and involves sailing around Stocking Island. It really is a beautiful course and the highlights are sailing through the cuts at either end of the island. The Elizabeth Harbour portion is quite calm and involved downwind sailing but the open ocean portion consisted of a long hard slog to windward. It was a thorough beating, actually. With 20+knots of wind and whitecaps everywhere I normally wouldn't even bother, but those were the conditions, so we did it. I am happy to report no breakage, and my 30 year old working jib that I sewed myself managed to hold together.

This race was an excellent example of why I don't race anymore, however. Early in the morning the race committee chair came on the radio and said they had decided to reverse the days of the 2 races, based on the strong winds and lumpy seas on the ocean. The committee was having a difficult time setting the marks at the cuts, and they were quite concerned about running the race safely. The in the harbour race, scheduled for Sunday promised lighter winds. So they wanted to have the in the harbour race instead. Immediately after this announcement, an extremely snotty Canadian came on the radio and just skewered Dale, the race chair, for making this last minute decision. Several other folks, equally caustic, chimed in as well. Keep in mind that all these folks have big, powerful monohulls or catamarans and obviously didn't care if smaller boats were going to get beat up. It would also give a clear advantage to those bigger boats. Well, the bad behaviour had its desired effect and Dale reversed his decision. There were a few plaintive calls from the smaller boat crowd, but they were drowned out by the loud and the whiney. Remember, this was billed as a FUN race. Another example of this type of behaviour occurred partway through the race, when it became evident that the mark at the eastern cut had blown far off station due to the wind. Immediately, people were concerned about the possibility of other competitors cutting the corner and shaving a few feet off the course. The suggestion was made that people have the track lines in their chart plotters examined after the race to make sure they weren't cheating. Since I don't have a chart plotter I could only assume I would be disqualified, but as one of the small boats getting punished out on the ocean the big shots didn't worry about me.

Finally, there was another ugly little incident where one boat was trying to luff up another boat, forcing him into water that was too shallow and the race committee had to intervene. It had been made abundantly clear before the race that the controlling ethics would be fun, safety, and consideration, but these all went by the wayside in short order.

So, Mary and I had an awesome sail, and I had an excellent reminder of why I no longer engage in sailboat racing! That said, I will sail in the in the harbour race tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a bit more civilized!

Best to all, Charlie


Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Small boat racing

A windy, rainy day ushered in the small boat races. It was, as is typical, loud, noisy, and rather unorganised, but fun. Mary and I competed in the blindfolded rowing race, hard dinghy division, and I am very sad to report there were only two boats. Mary gave me verbal guidance and we went easily around the course, winning a bottle of rum for our efforts. But watching the inflatables race was hilarious! Those things are near useless without motors and it took well nigh an eternity for them to get around. A winner finally emerged and managed, like a crippled beetle, to make it to shore. I would say it took  at least 3 times as long for the inflatable, as it did for me. Great fun!

Battery low, Charlie

Sunday, February 17, 2019

Batter up!

Hi everyone,

Just got back from the ball game, which was very well attended, and a ton of fun! Mary garnered more positive attention for White Seal based on a spectacular catch at short left, plus some other good catches. She was also pinch running for older guys who could hit but couldn't run. She was voted MVP! We think the cruisers won, for the first time in years, but since the announcer was hitting the beer pretty hard we aren't sure! Will find out on the net tomorrow.

We are anchored near town and will spend the night here, in order to do some errands in the morning.

Best to all, Charlie

Photos from Georgetown



Dancing at a live Rake’n’Scrape concert in Georgetown.


Like a mirage on the horizon, an affordable laundromat appeared and the crew of the White Seal took full advantage.

The beach on the ocean side of Stocking Island is magical, and typically almost deserted.

We have been anchored off of Chat’n’Chill, the beach bar that serves as the epicenter of the Georgetown cruiser craziness. Constant volleyball, rope swings, resident cats stealing sips of rum punch, and weekly dances on the deck contribute to the chaos. 


Mary and friends participating in the Coconut Challenge, one of the many silly regatta activities. 

Friday, February 15, 2019

Talent show

Hi everyone,

I survived! First time ever speaking into a microphone up on a stage. Thankfully I was up there as part of a group. I wrote about a third of the material. We did a half assed rehearsal a few minutes before showtime. It was, as I mentioned earlier, a spoof of the morning radio net. Here is a little sample of my efforts:

Today's weather synopsis is from Biff (real name Chris) Parker. The mother of all cold fronts has formed in the Yukon Territory and will be entering the Bahamas in 2 days. Negotiations have begun with Justin Trudeau and will result in punitive tariffs if this weather is not diverted to Greenland. Should these negotiations fail the only safe place for your boat will be inside Thunderball Cave. Good luck."

So that's a sample of the foolishness we came up with. It was fun. Crowd of around 250 loved it and I got a bunch of compliments after.

Coconut challenge tomorrow!

Best to all, Charlie

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Foolishness afloat

The weather has actually been downright bad today, although I am sure no one back home will be too upset. We have had a series of ugly squalls with very heavy rain which has resulted in a rash of anchor dragging incidents. The wind switched about 100 degrees, catching boats by surprise and putting several aground. Incidentally, the dragging boats were using all chain rode, from what I could see. No problems at all with White Seal, with her mostly nylon rode. It is like a giant rubber band in high winds and handles the shock of gusts with ease.

So the morning radio net was underway as all heck was breaking loose and boaters were calling in to report the various dragging yachts. That was when we heard the best transmission ever: "the Cat's Ass is dragging!" Yes, some individual has named their catamaran the Cats Ass. And it was dragging. Mary laughed so hard I was afraid she would hurt herself. Some of the boat names are pretty hilarious, attempting to be clever, but often falling a bit short. Another one, worthy of note for poor taste, is the Wet Dream. I mean, really. You've spent 6 figures for a boat and give it a name like that? Come on!

Mary and I have gotten hornswoggled into helping with a skit on the talent show. A Brit named Jillian is doing a spoof of the morning net and it should be fun. Goodness knows there is plenty of material to draw from! I am not too excited about getting up in a stage, but I guess I'll do it. Regatta registration was today but it got wiped out by the rain. Everybody ran to the Chat and Chill (beach bar) to escape the downpour.

Mary has been telling me we should go to Cuba, since we are so close. There are a bunch of folks headed there, mostly Canadians. Easy for them. Not so much for Americans. I would love to go there!

Best to all, Charlie

Sunday, February 10, 2019

Sunset

Someone is playing bagpipes not far from here as the sun goes down. Other people are blowing their conch horns as a salute to old sol. Mary has hitched a ride over to Sand Dollar Beach to listen to jazz being played by various cruisers. A busy place, this Georgetown! It was a breezy day, wind in the 20s, and no new arrivals indicates it is probably pretty bumpy out there. For me, this was a nice, quiet reading day. Ironically, I am reading a great book about the Arctic. Go figure!

As I have mentioned before, this place is a real crossroads, and we have met people from all over the world. One thing that is really fun is the cruisers net at 8AM on the VHF radio. A volunteer moderator facilitates the exchange of news and helpful information between the 200 plus boats. She does a fantastic job. In a couple of months most of the boats will be gone, but the community will spring back up next December or thereabouts. Ditto for the Regatta, which I think gets started on Weds. All very exciting!

Best to all, Charlie

Wednesday, February 6, 2019

Bahamas medical care

Hi everyone,


  • Mary and I said goodbye to Maggie today and there were tears all around. We will really miss her and hope she has a good trip home.


About 2 weeks ago I forgot to put sunscreen on my lips and got a nasty sunburn there. It has been very slow to heal and I was quite worried about it so I decided to go to the clinic here, with no appointment and see if I could get it looked at. I fully expected it would kill the better part of the day and had no idea what it might cost. When I got there I entered into an immaculate ER type setting where I was immediately guided to an intake station and paperwork initiated. A few minutes later that task was out of the way and I was sent in to see a nurse, who performed an array of tests like blood pressure, pulse, temp, etc. Even gave a urine sample although I have no idea why that was needed. Then there was about a ten minute wait while I enjoyed reading a magazine about Regatta. I tell you, sloop sailing is huge down here! Then a doctor came and got me for an exam. He said it appeared to be healing, but he did want to prescribe an antibiotic to be certain. He also gave some advice on topical over the counter products and suggested that I take multivitamins as well. He then escorted me to the clinic pharmacy, located just off the main lobby. The pharmacist took the prescription and urged me to have a seat. There was about a 10 minute wait at the most, and my name was called. The bill for everything was $44.
That was $14 for the antibiotic, and $30 for everything else.

When I think of how much I have paid for medical care, mostly for health insurance, and how little I have actually used, I feel rather ill. This experience has really been quite an eye opener and makes me realise what a financial train wreck US health care is, especially for those on the margins.

Best to all, Charlie

Monday, February 4, 2019

Georgetown!

Spent last night at Lee Stocking Island, once an important marine research facility, and now an abandoned ghost town. When the funding ran out, everybody just left, leaving large amounts of just about everything behind including toxic waste. We did not go ashore due to having the dinghy lashed down on deck.

Left around 0645 and got out the cut with no problems, flood tide. Hoisted sail and sailed the entire way, right in the cut and down to the area of volleyball beach. This place is a really big crossroads in the cruising world and there are a lot of really serious cruisers here, with some really impressive boats. Enormously exciting sailing through the fleet. We have already run into several folks we know.

Maggie Smith flies out on Wednesday and it is going to be really hard to see her go. She has been an awesome shipmate and unfailingly cheerful no matter the weather or circumstance. Living aboard a small boat for an extended period can be a test that many people fail. Maggie gets an A plus, with distinction. And I am so glad that she and Mary are such great friends!

We are thinking about going into town tonight for rake and scrape music which should be a bunch of fun. Then, tomorrow, we'll take the boat to Stocking Island for Maggie's last day. Then back to the town for her flight home Wednesday.

The sailing today was lovely. Gentle northerly, continuing a spate of fine weather. We are delighted to be here! It seems like there are fewer boats, compared to when we were here 8 years ago, but it is hard to tell. Expect more for the Regatta.

Best to all, Charlie

Saturday, February 2, 2019

Races continue

What a party! I got up at 2AM to take care of a little detail and could still hear our friend DJ, (who is an actual DJ), blasting the music. We saw him today and he said he went until 4AM. Back at it around 10 AM. The town has a year round population of about 50 and is very picturesque.

So, the races. These involve Class C sloops which are small, around 17 feet or so. But they have a lot of sail area and in order to keep from capsizing they recruit very large Bahamians who act as a mobile ballasting system. Very exciting to watch in the high winds yesterday. These races are a big deal down here, and might well be described as the national sport. Everybody is on the shore or in boats watching. Folks coming up from Exumas, down from Black Point and other places as well. And this is just a small race, with the big deal coming U in April in Georgetown. Another interesting bit of info is that there can be big cash prizes, so the sailing is aggressive.

Battery going dead again....

Probably head down to Georgetown tomorrow or Monday.

Best to all, Charlie

Friday, February 1, 2019

Racing!

Great fun today! Went into the town this morning and watched a number of the sloops get unloaded from the mailboat and have their masts stepped. Very festive with lots of people, music blasting from our new friend the DJ, and the strong 25 knot winds driving the Ocean waves into the cut. Very dramatic. We went back to the boat for lunch and then rowed to the nearby pavilion to watch the race. It is right next to the airstrip and the occasional taking off and landing of small planes about a hundred feet away added to the sense of general bedlam. Incidentally, the way to the yacht club involves walking along this same runway for about a quarter mile, while keeping a sharp lookout for planes. No evidence whatsoever of any security. Certainly no TSA.

It was announced that due to the high winds there would be only one race, at 3PM. The boats were rigged with smaller sails, and were sailed out to a starting line about a mile out from the beach. They were all lined up at anchor, and with the sails down.

Dead battery, to be continued

Farmer’s Cay Regatta Photos

Here are some photos from today’s race at the First Friday in February Farmer’s Cay Festival! It was a ton of fun, with intermittent squalls all afternoon adding to the drama. More description forthcoming...

Bahamian sloops being unloaded from the mail boat

Watching the races from the waterfront pavilion bar

A boat at anchor after the races

Lowering the sails after the race


Approaching the finish line