Saturday, December 31, 2022

Exumas!

 Hi everyone!

Dramatic change in the weather and we are anchored for our third night in the Exumas. We got Britt off to the airport on Thursday morning and we were all very sad to see her go. She spent a month and a half on board with me and was just great! Can't recommend her highly enough should she end up crewing on another boat.

We did a few errands ashore and were back on the boat around 1PM. Mary asked, "why don't we head out now for the Exumas.?" I considered it for a nanosecond and said sure. We motored out to Porgee Rock since the wind was on the nose and set sail for a beat to windward. After an hour or so it was evident we would be unable to negotiate the reefs on the Yellow Banks so we fired up the engine. We managed to get through the narrowest section of coral heads just before dark. Barely visible in the fading light but you could see them from up on the mast. The wind was light out of the SE and we continued motoring for another couple of hours, with lights visible in the distance. As we got closer the wind picked up and we hoisted the main, killing the engine. I was reluctant to hoist the job, having not set up jacklines and safety harnesses so we beat to windward with just the main, anchoring under sail around 11. We were in the lee of Allan's Cay. The area looked like a convention of megayachts, with at least a dozen in the general area. Highborn Cay seems to be their hangout. Fortunately for us lowbornes they are too big to get into the good anchorages and so we motored in and anchored in the absolute best spot right off the iguana beach.

Malachi was enchanted with everything and I had forgotten how spectacularly clear the water is. We had a really great day and a peaceful night at anchor. Today we did some snorkeling and some boat chores before heading out the short distance to Highborne. We hauled up the sail, pulled the anchor, and sailed out, something that is seldom done these days though it was a piece of cake. We ran out on to the Banks a ways, then hardened up and beat up to Highborne. Anchored under sail but decided there was too much surge and current so I ran the engine for a short bit and reanchored further north. It's New Years Eve and we will likely go into the beach and hang out with other cruisers in a bit.

Happy New Year everyone!

Charlie


Wednesday, December 28, 2022

Blustery weather

 Hi all,

Quick post with weak internet. Mary and Malachi still haven't seen the sun. We are anchored in the lee of Athol Island, rolling back and forth as a light rain continues. Did have some nice snorkeling yesterday but it is just too rough and cold to go in today. Does not resemble the Bahamas at present. I find it quite pleasant but a couple of my guests are feeling rather nauseous and are occupying their bunks at the moment. We will pull anchor shortly and head into the harbor for the night. Weather looks to improve by Friday.

All the best, Charlie

Tuesday, December 27, 2022

Junkanoo!

 Hi everyone!

I never quite know how to describe Junkanoo. It happens twice a year, on Boxing Day and New Years. This year it was postponed a day due to rain and wind. We had gone downtown on Bay Street at 2 AM only to find out about the postponement. We were quite chagrined but happy to find out that the alternate schedule started things at 6 PM. It meant we could see a significant portion and still get a decent night's sleep.

So, in a nutshell, it's a parade. Sounds pretty simple. But it has nothing in common with, say, the Memorial Day parade back home. Of course there is music, and this music is an auditory and visceral tour de force. It is combined with extravagant floats and costumes, waving to and fro in the tropical breeze. There are various groups competing for bragging rights and cash prizes. The bigger groups will be proceeded by costumed dancers and several exquisitely decorated floats on wheels. They are followed by an avalanche of sound, emanating from drums, whistles, cow bells, brass instruments, and various other sound producing devices of which I have no familiarity. Meanwhile, you are standing on the street, in a mob of happy people, about one foot away from everything. Even I was swaying to the beat. Best live music ever. And totally free. 

We ran out of steam around 1 AM and walked back to the boat. I have been delighted to have Mary and Malachi aboard. We went a short distance out of town and anchored near an island for some great snorkeling. We will bring Britt back to town for a departure on Thursday.  Things are going great!

All the best, Charlie


Wednesday, December 21, 2022

Nassau!

Hi folks!

The forecast changed and so we bid farewell to Andros. Had a beautiful sail over to Nassau. Interestingly enough there was a very large swell running on Tongue of the Ocean, especially after leaving the bluff. Probably a 10 or 15 foot swell. Just big hills of water, moving relentlessly towards the west. We had a nice south wind giving us a beam reach. Left at a quarter to eight and dropped anchor around two. Saw lots of flying fish amidst the whitecaps. Lovely sail! Last big one for Britt. She flys out on the 29th and will be sorely missed!

Cheers, Charlie

Tuesday, December 20, 2022

Weather

 Hi everyone,

We spent last night in the anchorage, with the hope of leaving tomorrow morning, but the weather forecast has changed for the worse. North winds associated with a cold front will make the anchorage untenable, so we just moved back into the inner harbor. Our friend Allen will come over for dinner and cards in a bit. Rainy, windy, and a bit cooler. Minimal sun today.

Best, Charlie

Monday, December 19, 2022

More from Andros

 Good morning all!

The fishing boat survived the night and the owners showed up this morning with a freshly charged battery. But the other boat is well and truly sink. It is a very scruffy looking vessel but boasts a new, or at least a just installed engine. It may be the type of engine that has been "rebuilt" with a can of spray paint, but at least the owner had hoped that they would go out fishing.

We made friends with Allen Kemp, the captain of another fishing boat, and he joined us for dinner, bringing conch, grouper, and lionfish, and lobster. He supervised the prep, and the results were beyond excellent. His boat, with 5 people aboard, had been out for 2 weeks. Afterwards, we played cards till near midnight. A great evening. We got a tour of his boat, which is actually owned by someone else who is part of the crew. They will go out again after the holidays and we may see them as they plan to fish the northern Exumas. They sold their catch for around 50k. Allen is about the age of Britt and Gail so you can understand the interest. Gail left early this morning for home in Oregon and we hated to see her leave!

Best to all, Charlie




Sunday, December 18, 2022

Wild times in Andros

 Hi folks!

The long slog across the banks involved a few hours at anchor after my sidelight bulb burned out. Thought I had a spare but couldn't find it and was reluctant to run without it. Anchored near the Northwest Channel. In the morning we eased out onto Tongue of the Ocean and it was delightfully calm with very little chop. There had been talk about a swell developing as a result of a storm far out in the Atlantic and I was delighted to see it hadn't happened. We were motorsailing due to the light wind. The Joulter Cays were visible and after a couple hours we were within sight of Morgan's Bluff. Then the swell began, almost as if a switch had been turned on. There was what appeared to be an unbroken line of surf along the barrier reef, and the breaking waves were big. My anxiety level ratcheted up considerably as I considered the possibility that the gap in the reef might be impassable.

We approached the entrance, remaining in deep water, and reconnoitered. The seas were breaking heavily on either side but we didn't see any breaking right in the channel, so I went for it. Strictly white knuckle! The breakers were in the 10 - 15 foot range and had the potential to destroy the boat. We made it and came shooting around the jetty, heaving a sigh of relief. We later met a 32 year resident and former sailor who said it was about the biggest swell she could remember. And it lasted for days.

Now, I am doing my best to keep a local fishing boat from sinking. Long story that I may try to tell later. And another one did sink about 4 nights ago. Right aft of us at the dock. Battery went dead, bilge pump stopped, and down she went. Not sure if this latest one will make it. Will let you all know.

Cheers, Charlie

Saturday, December 17, 2022

Morgans Bluff, Andros

 Hi everyone!

Hard to believe we are really here in the Bahamas! We are becoming part of the scene hear on Andros.

It's 11:20 and the mailboat just 

Phone, internet, wifi- nothing works. May have better luck in Nassau. Much better 38 years ago when sending postcards!

Best, Charlie





 came in. I was awakened and decided to take it all in. A couple dozen cars and pickups were waiting on the wharf. With Christmas in the offing there are undoubtedly many gifts coming in. I have come over to the bar to get wifi for this little missive. Pretty quiet in here for a Friday night.

A recap is in order. Before leaving Bimini we toured the home of Ashley Saunders, which is a testimony as to what one person can accomplish. He has built, over a period of 29 years, singleh

Saturday, December 10, 2022

Bimini!

 Hi everyone! We had a very nice crossing yesterday! Left No Name Harbor a bit before 6 AM and dropped anchor at 3:30 PM in Nixon's Harbor, South Bimini. It was right at low tide and I was reluctant to go in the harbor entrance then. Ask my daughter Mary why!

After a very peaceful evening we pulled anchor and headed into the harbor. I stopped near the entrance and we watched several boats go in and out. It was high tide. I had read so much conflicting information I didn't know what to believe but the sun was high enough to read the water so we proceeded. The least water was 12 feet. Far better than last time in here. There were 2 channel markers.

But the real stresser was customs and immigration. If Britt hadn't been there I would be on my way back across the Stream. They are no longer doing paper. Everything has to be done online and you can't do it on a cellphone.  Britt spent an hour on a borrowed commputer at another marina, only to lose everything over some undefined error. Eventually the customs person had to come to the marina to wrap it all up. Then it was off to immigrations (another building down the road) for another round of punishment and humiliation. We weren't the only people dealing with this. Now that I have seen the entire process I think the best bet might be to pay someone to make it all happen.

All that hassle notwithstanding it is reall great to be here. We are one of about 4 boats currently at the Bluewater Resort, which is a really nice marina. Very affordable compared to most other marinas. I really like Bimini. A bit gritty perhaps, but colorful and friendly. Heck, Hemingway loved the place, right?

Saturday night, should be a hopping place! Music already blaring from the bars.

Cheers, Charlie

Thursday, December 8, 2022

No Name Harbor

 Hi folks,

We have been hanging out here for several days. We had sailed from Palm Beach to here direct, avoiding the insanity of the South Florida ICW. Took us about 16 hours. Nice moon, wind light but pretty steady. Sailed most of the way, coming into Biscayne Bay around 10 PM. Saw about 10 cruise ships coming out of Lauderdale and Miami. Plus a couple more in Palm Beach. I had kind of written that industry off what with Covid but it appears to have survived.

We have done some more provisioning and some boat chores. Tomorrow and Saturday look promising for a crossing. Probably end up motorsailing in what should be light wind. Likely we will stop in Bimini for a couple nights.

Best, Charlie

Saturday, December 3, 2022

Palm Beach

 Hi folks,

We have arrived! Here we are in the land of the esteemed boobus americanus! It really has to be seen to be believed. And the best way is by boat. We just motored the 4 miles from the anchorage on Lake Worth, where we spent 2 nights, to Palm Beach proper where we anchored for the night. It being a Saturday afternoon the ICW was jammed with watercraft, all of which were proceeding at flank speed with absolutely no regard for their fellow mariners. The wakes were epic and the ICW took on the aspect of the North Atlantic in winter. The wakes continue, well after dark, and numerous boats are decked out with various tacky Christmas decorations. I had decided to forgo our previous anchorage in order to be closer to the inlet. Forecast looks good and we hope to go outside tomorrow, at least to Ft. Lauderdale. The idea of negotiating all of the Sunday boat traffic, plus 22 opening bridges is just too much.

We did find a real gem earlier today. There is a big section of undeveloped beach immediately north of Palm Beach that was conserved as a park many years back by John and Catherine MacArthur. Beautiful! Gives an idea of what Florida looked like before it was carpet bombed with condos.

Next challenge will be navigating the digital fortress of Bahamian Customs. They have switched to doing it online before entering the country and I am totally unable to figure it out. A tech literate friend describes the site as "terrible". This is really disappointing. It is as if they are trying to discourage cruisers from coming and not pumping thousands of dollars into their economy. Our friend Jane on Aida will help us out via phone over the next couple of days. This is going to be a real challenge. At least we don't have pets or guns or other things that present additional obstacles.

Best to all!

Charlie

Tuesday, November 29, 2022

Night 2 in Vero

 Hi folks,

This is a great spot so we decided to hang out for a second night. Britt went to the beach and I took the bus into town to procure some fruits and veggies. While in the supermarket I was taking note of the aged population contained therein, only to remind myself that I am a member of that club as well! At least my daughter Mary says I'm still in halfway decent shape so I am very thankful for that!

We will leave mid morning and knock off a few miles on the way to Palm Beach.

Regards, Charlie

Monday, November 28, 2022

Vero Beach

 Hi all,

We had a couple of motorsailing days. First was to Cocoa in a stiff southwesterly, which was quite close to where we wanted to go. So we were just able to keep the main full and throttle back some on the motor. Had to reef when it really picked up. After anchoring in Cocoa we walked a short distance to a West Marine and picked up several items. The things I really wanted they didn't have! With a cold front coming we went to the other side of the bridge and anchored in the lee. No problems with the frontal passage.

It has been very disconcerting to see all the wrecked boats in Florida. Mostly sailing vessels, though there was a large, maybe 45 foot late model powerboat sunk at Cocoa. Boats upended on breakwalls, masts sticking forlornly out of the water, boats in the trees, on peoples lawns, etc. One that we saw up on a wharf had been hit hard by the graffiti guerillas. Many of the boats appear to be neglected derelicts, but there are also some real nice ones. At least they were recently nice.

Met up with some fellow sailors from back home and am currently rafted up with them at Vero. Knew they were headed south and it was a real treat to encounter the yesterday and tie up to them today. They are Mark and Jane on Aida, a Beneteau 47. They are also Bahamas bound.

Cheers, Charlie

Saturday, November 26, 2022

Rocket launch

 Hi folks! 

Got to see a Falcon rocket launch about 50 minutes ago. Very impressive! It was Britt's first. After about 15 seconds, after which it disappeared into the clouds, she remarked how quiet it was. " The sound will come", was my response, and it sure did. Bear in mind that we were probably 10 miles from the pad. Really, really cool. I wonder if Elon Musk makes it to many of the launches. His head must be so big that is like something full of rocket fuel. With his little Twitter adventure he needs to be careful his head doesn't explode! I really admire the guy.

Got a huge amount of provisions today. Two shopping carts full to the brim. I figured we would just call an uber or cab, but Britt says, lets just push them back to the marina, it's only about 5 blocks. So we did, in spite of my nagging feeling we were breaking some sort of social taboo. We loaded the dinghy to the gunwales and I rowed the goods out to the boat while Britt returned the carts.

I have decided I can stow the ski parka away. Yes, I should know better but I am cautiously optimistic. Next several days look pretty good and we are going further south. Also, I realize I didn't sound sufficiently thankful on Thanksgiving. Truly, I am!

Best, Charlie

Thursday, November 24, 2022

Fog?

 Hi all,

Well, at least it warmed up!  But the next time I come to Florida it may be with radar. It has been looking like the Maine coast for the past several days. At one point yesterday we were under sail on the Mosquito Lagoon in foggy conditions at 4 in the afternoon, booming along in 20 mph+ winds. The fog bank thickened and I could no longer see the next mark. Fortunately, the vector on my Navionics app saved the day. I kept going along lined up in the right direction while Britt located the next mark. We crept into the anchorage by the railway bridge near Titusville in the dark, worn out by a really great day, mostly under sail. That night the fog really crept in and at 3 AM it was pea soup. Couldn't see the boat anchored near us at all, except for the faint glow of its anchor light. 

So the sun appeared for a bit today, in between and during rain showers. We are now on a mooring at Titusville and went ashore to stretch our legs. More wrecked boats here from Ian and Nicole. Probably about 10. Really sobering sight.

Happy Thanksgiving, Charlie

Sunday, November 20, 2022

Florida sunshine?

 Hi folks!

No sunshine in Florida. And darn cold to boot. After freezing yesterday, along with intermittent drizzle, we decided to stay put at our anchorage about 1p miles north of St. Augustine. During my time in Fernandina there was very little sun and that has continued since coming back over the line. And rain is in the forecast thru Friday. Definitely the worst weather of the trip has been in Florida.

We had hoped to get a mooring in St. Augustine for a night but they are filled up so we may just stop for fuel tomorrow and keep moving. At least it is supposed to get up to 65 tomorrow so that is a step in the right direction. 

Cheers, Charlie

Thursday, November 17, 2022

Cumberland - again!

 Hi all,

Britt arrived yesterday at St. Marys and needed a good sleep after an all night travel ordeal. But she revived nicely and we were able to enjoy diiner on White Seal with our guest Irene, a singlehander from the boat next door. Irene had come over to say how happy she was to see another person rowing. We hit it off and I invited her over to dinner. She has been living aboard her Valiant 32 full time for about 20 years. She just turned 81 and is in pretty fantastic shape. A real inspiration. We had a great visit!

The dawn brought much colder temps, but Britt and I went ashore for a walk around the old and interesting part of town. Back to the boat to head to Cumberland. We were able to sail off the anchor and pass by Irene for a farewell. Out the river and then had to tack back and forth while a nuclear submarine headed out. Then it was motoring directly into a stiff north wind the 6 or 7 miles to Plum Orchard. We are the only boat anchored here. Lots of southbound boats on the ICW though. Walked over to the beach, which was interesting to see after the storm. Lots of shells, beautiful ones. Britt loved it. Back to the boat for dinner, conversation, and reading. Lower 40's tonite. Probably go on the mansion tour in the morning.

Best to all,

Charlie

Monday, November 14, 2022

St. Mary's

 Hi all,

Not much to report, happily! Decided to come to the lovely little town of St Marys, GA since it offers a more protected anchorage. Need to do some provisioning today which will involve a lot of walking and a cab ride. And tomorrow I hope to find propane which I am getting low on. My next guest comes on Wednesday. She is Brittany Vallene, who spent time on White Seal over a year ago and has been looking forward to more cruising, this time on salt water. We hope to start off with another trip to Cumberland which is not far from here.

Regarding Cumberland, I picked up a copy of the book "Untamed", by Will Harlow, and recommend it highly. Its about Carol Ruckdeschel, who has been studying sea turtles on Cumberland and living in a cabin she built out there for over 40 years. She has played an important role as well in limiting development by the park service. Vilified by many because of her propensity to speak her mind and step on the toes of some very wealthy and well connected folks. Tons, I mean TONS of drama in this book. She's still out there at age 80 and it would be beyond awesome to meet her.

Best to all, Charlie

Thursday, November 10, 2022

Shuffleboard dreams

 Hi all!

That was quite a blow last night! Yes, it was only tropical storm intensity, but when you are in the cockpit at 0 dark 30 being being pulverised by pellets of water and the boat is thrashing desperately to break free of its mooring you tend to ask yourself, "why, am I doing this?" At that moment, I briefly thought that I should take up shuffleboard. Absolutely zero stress. Low expenses. Never played in inclement weather. Least of all at 0300. 

There had been a Tartan 40 sailboat on the mooring immediately to windward of me, a fact that was very unsettling. A beautiful boat, clearly well maintained but with no one aboard. It was yawing back and forth in the wind and just had one mooring line. And there was a second boat to windward of the Tartan that was also swinging wildly, on an anchor no less. So I had these 2 threats above me and no likelihood of the wind changing direction during the night. With no one aboard these boats to monitor chafe they represented a real threat.

The wind picked up during the night and I stayed up monitoring the situation while grabbing little catnaps. Getting up around 3 I saw that the Tartan was still there. About 15 minutes later there was a tremendous blast of wind and rain and I rushed up on deck. Bear in mind that I was napping fully dressed with foul weather gear (wet), safety harness, life jacket, and a large sheath knife. On deck I had 2 anchors ready for immediate deployment in the event of mooring failure. I looked for the Tartan, and it was gone! It had gone by without hitting me!

The blast of wind was considerable and I was really concerned whether I would hold. So I started the engine and put it in gear to take some of the pressure off. I was wearing a diving mask for a while which protected my eyes, but distorted the view because of being wet so I took those off. After a while I realized that none of the other moorings had failed, even while holding larger boats so I shut the engine down and thought more about shuffleboard. And I was very relieved when a tentative dawn appeared. The wind was at a zephyr like 30 to 40 and it was pouring rain, but there was hope.

The Tartan had managed to smash its way into a thicket of pilings that made up the shrimp boat dock. Over the next couple of hours it muscled its way in deeper and to the casual eye appears to be resting comfortably in a safe harbor. And a Hunter sailboat that appears to be of a similar size, that broke loose Tuesday night is lying askew on the top of a rock embankment that surrounds the pulp mill nearby. With the super high tides there will be the need for a crane to remove it.

With gratitude and relief, Charlie

PS I am already rethinking shuffleboard

Survived

 Very bad, horrible, no good night during peak of storm. The boat and I are fine. More to follow after I get some sleep.

Best to all, Charlie

Wednesday, November 9, 2022

Updates

 Here's a couple of good news items. I have been under assault on this trip by all sorts of annoying, nasty, and biting insects. Some of them are small enough to fit thru the mesh screen. I am very happy to report, that thanks to Nicole, they are GONE! No idea where they are, but they can't move in this wind.

And in the never ending battle between the tide and the wind , the wind has won. This means that as long as the wind stays above about 30, it counteracts the strength of the tide, making the boat point more consistently into the wind and making for a more comfortable boat.

Also, they canceled the hurricane watch for this county. We still have the tropical storm warning, but hey, I'll take what I can get.

And no problems with any of the boats on moorings, most of which are bigger than me. Did have one big anchored sailboat go up on the rocks by the paper mill, and another one is clearly aground in the harbor.

Best, Charlie

Day 2

 Good morning!

Thanks for the comments! It was a choppy night for sure but I did manage to get some shuteye. Just watched a 50 foot sailboat motor over to the fuel dock to tie up. The marina was keeping that section of dock open for unknown reasons. It looks pretty uncomfortable. There is a huge megayacht tied up there and maybe they had reserved that spot for extra space. It's 216 feet long and listed for sale at 44 million. I just hope it doesnt come loose! 

Anyway, White Seal is doing great. The big nylon lines I set up on the mooring are working very well. Wind is actually less now than it was during the night. But I know it will be back up again. Have great neighbors on a nice catamaran on the next mooring over. So I am hardly alone. We exchanged boat cards and have contact info.

Gonna stop yakking now and get a bit more rest.

Cheers, Charlie

Tuesday, November 8, 2022

Nicole

 Well folks, the winds have commenced to blow. Definitely 25 with gusts to maybe 30. Tide opposing wind at the moment so swinging wildly around the mooring. Discovered that the pennant supplied with the mooring seems to have no stretch so I have tightened up a bit on my own line which is far better. What had been happening was a considerable shock when all the mooring chain was taut. Hard to believe a mooring pennant wouldn't be made out of nylon but that may be the case. But the pennant is way oversized for my boat so maybe thats it. Chafing leathers installed on the pennants. The spinnaker pole topping lift was rattling on the side and I just removed it. Definitely blowing 30 now. Lots of banging on the hull from the mooring buoy and the dinghy. I thought about putting the dinghy on deck but you never know when you might need it. The banging noises will annoy me for about 4 hours in each roughly 6 hour tide cycle. Anyway, thats whats happening here in paradise!

Best, Charlie

Sunday, November 6, 2022

Cumberland

 Hi all,

Ron and I spent 3 nights at Cumberland and it was a great place. Untrammeled beaches, wild horses, spanish moss draped over massive live oak trees, and capped off by being anchored next to a Carnegie mansion. 

Unfortunately, there may be trouble in paradise as an area of deteriorating weather near Puerto Rico threatens to become a tropical storm and head this way. Over the last couple of days I have been looking at options and have settled on the one that is least bad. I thought about going back north to Brunswick but figured the chances of my getting a good slip there were zero. Plus, I would have had to negotiate St Andrews Sound which will become untenable as the easterly swells build. Most of the anchorages in this area are really exposed if there is a big tidal surge and would be susceptible to increased wave action. That would be the situation at St Marys where I have anchored before. I needed to get Ron to an airport and so I decided on Fernandina Beach. We came over here this morning and managed to get a city mooring. Probably the best solution to handle strong, changing winds and tidal currents. White Seal has excellent bronze chocks that keep chafing to a minimum. Protection from NE thru SE is excellent. Other directions I would rate as fair. Biggest concern would be other boats breaking loose and running into White Seal. Hopefully it won't come to that. At this time it sounds like a run of the mill gale but I will certainly be monitoring it and taking precautions. According to the weather people this potential storm is quite out of character for this time of year. But there it is, and here I am, so I will make the best of it!

Cheers, Charlie

Wednesday, November 2, 2022

Beautiful. Just beautiful.

 Poor internet signal may have something to do with my posts failing to post. So, a short version to see if it works.

Ron Rost and I are doing great! This part of the east coast is just stunning. Very little waterway traffic. Quiet, mostly empty anchorages. Ron said he had no idea of what the lowcountry is like. A bit




 blustery and rainy first couple of days. Sunny but with light winds since. Hoping to reach Cumberland tomorrow.

All the best, Charlie

Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Living large

 Hi everyone,

White Seal was anchored out in remote parts of the Lowcountry the last 2 nights but now she is tied up at a marina! Highly unusual for Charlie to cough up money for dockspace but Charleston is an exception. The anchorage here is marginal, though it is packed with boats. It features very strong currents, a bottom littered with anchor snagging debris, and the opportunity for a suicidal row across the harbor to get ashore. No thanks. My friend Emily has done it but she admits it was crazy.

It was lovely coming in here. As soon as I exited the "ditch" I hoisted the main and sailed slowly up the harbor, fighting the tide. The autopilot steered while I secured dockspace by phone. It was a close call. The municipal marina was completely booked. 20,000 feet of dock space and they didn't have 36 feet for yours truly. And the place did look packed. In fact, there were 3 megayachts who couldn't get space and were forced to anchor out with the low budget crowd. Poor them. I lucked out and got a slip that was just my size at the Ashley Marina next door. It was a bit nerve wracking docking the boat with a really strong ebb pushing me towards the bridge, literally 10 feet away as I eased in at an angle. Fortunately there was an excellent dock attendant waiting. Probably could have done it alone but failure would have ended the voyage.

My friend Ron Rost comes tomorrow for about a week. We will stay here tomorrow night, and may stay a third if he wants a good look at Charleston. From what I have seen on past trips, the magic of the city is to be found south of Broad Street. No magic in the rest of the city. Absolutely choked with traffic and pedestrians are reduced to the status of a lower life form. Assuming they survive at all. Being next to the bridge means constant noise and there is the additional pleasant sound of helicopters landing at the hosputal next door. Probably delivering run over pedestrians to the ER. Sorry, bad humor. Quite a difference from the last few quiet nights.

Another interesting note. Listening to the weather they had issued a flood warning. What the heck, I thought. Hasn't rained in weeks. Turned out it was for the exceptionally high tides, and was causing flooding in many areas with low lying streets and roads. I had seen this in Belhaven, wondering where all the water was coming from. Waterfront property owners, beware!

Best, Charlie

Sunday, October 23, 2022

Secret anchorage

Hi everyone,

Well, its not so secret anymore since it has been identified by the Skipper Bob guidebook. I first anchored here in the spring of 1985 while on my way north. It offers 360 degree protection and features nice soft mud and thick marsh grass along the shore. About ten feet deep right up to the shore. Never seen another cruising boat although an occasional small fishing boat passes by. When I was here with Meg in 1990 I climbed the mast after dark and could see one faint light far off in the distance. That has changed, as the relatively high ground on the other side of the Waccamaw has gotten developed. Quite a few houses have been built and a good sized marina has been built not far away. I expect this anchorage will never get developed since it is essentially part of a giant swamp. Although I suppose it could all be filled in someday if the US population keeps growing. Anyway, it's a really beautiful spot and I kind of wish there was a good storm so I could take full advantage of it.

I was able to mostly sail today which was very cathartic after spending days motoring thru heavily developed areas. A short day, but lovely!

Best to all, Charlie

Saturday, October 22, 2022

Extra

 Hi all,

I got off on a tangent earlier on the subject of boaters behaving badly and had more to add.

First of all, I made it thru the infamous Rock Pile today without incident. Boaters like Mindy and Will know exactly what I am talking about. It's just a 4 mile section near Myrtle Beach, but it is scary. Most of the waterway is sand and mud, but this section was dynamited out of rock. Very narrow with jagged fingers ot rock hidden along the edges and just below the surface. Twice, when I have passed thru with Meg, there have been large sailboats stranded on these rocks, waiting for the tide to come back in. You really don't want to meet anything bigger than a rowboat coming the other way. Fortunately,  today I didn't. I did put out a securite call on the VHF beforehand.

Talking about idiots on the water I have to fess up to something I did on my first trip 50 years ago. I think I mentioned this way back in the blog, but not this spevific incident. You may recall I was captaining my fathers charter schooner, the Sea Song, from Norfolk to Charleston. This was in the fall of 72, I was 18 years old, and far over my head. For crew, I had my 10 year old sister Barbie, my mother, and 2 buddies of mine who were in their early 20's. They were all great, BTW. The captain knew he was over his head but he was just folliwing orders. The schooner was 43 feet on deck and 52 feet overall, displacing 42000 pounds. She was an impressive vessel. I'm surprised I made it as far as I did without a mishap. But yesterday morning, as I entered the Cape Fear River, I felt a bit like a criminal revisiting the scene of the crime.

I don't remember exactly how I screwed up, but I did, driving all 21 tons of boat aground. And the tide was going out. I would like to remember that I was calm, cool, and collected, but I wasn't. Fortunately, God is kind to fools, and eventually the tide came back and refloated her, with no obvious damage. But I wonder if it had anything to do with the sprung plank we experienced out on the ocean a few days later. 

I always remember that incident when transiting that area. It was a long time ago. Hard to believe I grew up in that business.

Very best regards, Charlie


Ps Anchored on the Waccamaw River. A delight after the pomposity of Myrtle Beach

Waccamaw river

 Hi all, 

I was too beat yesterday to post. Had spent the previous night in Carolina Beach. I got up early to take advantage of the ebb on the Cape Fear River. Often I am able to sail the river but the wind was light. I have been a motorboat since Oriental, something I am not happy about. There has been wind but this part of the ICW is just too narrow and with a lot of traffic.

After dipping into the architectural aesthetic of the ICW, I feel I need to delve into the boat handling skills I have observed. Yesterday offered a couple of prime examples, one of which nearly turned tragic.

It began as I approached Lockwood's Folly inlet. With a name like that, you expect trouble, and I was rather beset with apprehension. It was dead low tide and I was poking along at just above idle speed, or about 3 miles an hour  trying to keep the boat in 5'9" of water. She draws one inch less than that. The alarm on the depth sounder was set at 7 feet, and it makes a high pitched whiny noise when that depth is encountered. It is not a pleasant sound. Fortunately, were I to go aground I would soon be lifted off by the rising tide.

The scene was complex as I rounded a bend. There were about a half dozen small fishing boats scattered about, 2 of which were the Jon boat type, perhaps 14 feet long with a very small outboard motor. One of the slightly bigger boats was crossing the narrow channel and he passed just behind me. So, lots of activity concentrated at a known fishing hotspot.

Into this congestion came 2 center console powerboats, each of about 26 or 27 feet, and sporting 2 big outboard motors. One thing I've observed about American boaters is that they like horsepower, they aren't timid about using it, and God forbid that they slow down. One of the boats is going north and the other is going south. White Seal is in the very middle of the channel going 3 mph.

It becomes evident that both boats intend to take the inside of the corner. They were both doing about 20 to 25 mph, which doesn't sound like much to car people, but believe me, it is plenty fast. I realized that they didn't see each other, but at literally the last second they each swerved, fortunately in each case to starboard. A poor sap minding his fish pole in one of the Jon boats was nearly swamped by a huge wake and received a saltwater shower. My boat got hit by spray, but thankfully not in the cockpit so my charts were ok. The weather was perfect and I wasn't expecting rain so I didn't have them covered. Other than being terrorized the other small boats fared OK. But here's the thing, the 2 trangressors didn't even slow down that I could see. There was a high speed exchange of the usual single finger salute and one party uttered some extremely coarse language not fit to repeat but they didn't stop. It all took about 15 seconds and White Seal continued poking along at 3mph till she got thru the critical area.

Perhaps an hour later I was approaching the Shallotte Inlet, which is very similar. I was in the same equivalent situation, tide very low, lots of small fishing boats including several anchored directly in the MIDDLE of the shallow, narrow channel. Once again I was crawling along when I could hear a very fast moving boat coming from behind. Due to some guy hogging the middle of the channel with his anchor and multiple fish lines out I moved over to the side of the channel, right next to a red buoy. It was very evident that there was a barely submerged sand bar coming out to the buoy. The powerboater had decided to take that route as there were no boats in that location. He and his buddy hit it hard and came to a very sudden stop. I hollered over and asked if they were OK. No response, but no injuries were apparent. Their focus was on getting the engine restarted, which amazingly enough, they did. It even went into gear and moved. It didn't sound too good but they went slowly past and pulled over at a conveniently located marine repair yard.

It's kind of crazy out there in boater world. Lots of people who aren't very good at it! I wish they would learn how to slow down!

Best, Charlie

Thursday, October 20, 2022

On the waterfront

 Here I go as an architectural critic, for which I am supremely unqualified.

Over the past half century there has been a movement of financially successful folks to waterfront properties along the coast. It's an exclusive club, and I ain't a member. But that's OK, I do have a unique view as I poke along the intracoastal waterway, sandwiched between the barrier islands and the inner shoreline. And what I see isn't pretty. In fact, it is a shockingly ugly sight. Trashy, I believe, would be the best descriptor.

Coming around a bend yesterday, I beheld about 2 solid miles of development on the one side of the canal. It looked like a scene from a waterway in Bangladesh. But I bet Bangladesh has more character. This waterway scene was just soul suckingly gross. For 2 miles a thicket of pressure treated pilings and lumber predominated with complete disorder the overarching rule. Basically, every home had a dock that protruded out about 200 feet into the canal. There were literally many thousands of pilings, and at the end of every dock there was some sort of pavilion, as well as a lift for a bright and shiny boat. As you looked down the line it looked like a crazy assemblage of pick up stix. The boats were typically of the center console variety and I would guess that the average value was around 100 grand. It did not appear that any were in use on this weekday morning.

Rising above the chaos of the pilings you could see the 3rd or 4th story of the associated house, a structure built at considerable expense. In the narrow space between each dock you could see that the shoreline had been bulkheaded, to stamp out any vestige of nature. The lots were very narrow so that the houses were very close together. The ends of the docks had only 10 to 15 feet between them. The ugliness was astounding. And these people are well to do. I bet these are million dollar properties.

Then, I saw an anomaly. Out of probably 300 to 400 homes, there was ONE with no dock. No bulkhead. No boat. Just about 50 feet of natural shoreline. That is the person I would like to meet.

I feel the built environment is of critical importance to the human psyche. People react in a visceral way to that environment and when it is bad it can be very bad. But this architectural eyesore will have a limited lifespan. Sooner or later it will be removed by a hurricane and hopefully not be rebuilt in its present form. I mean really, building on a coastal barrier island? Are you kidding me?

From Carolina Beach, all the best, Charlie

PS Carolina Beach is not the locale I have just described, although it shares in the shame

Wednesday, October 19, 2022

Relax

 Everything was fine! The most difficulty involved my leaving a warm bunk at 0330. It was in the 30's but it was clear and with a bit of moonlight. I tugged a bit on the anchor line, pulled in about 10 feet, and White Seal was floating happily, with no harm done. I returned immediately to my bunk. This little mishap is typical of the little problems that rise up along the way.

I am anchored for the night in Wrightsville Beach. It was a cold, but uneventful day. At some point, I intend to expound upon the architectural proclivities of the moderately well to do, who find themselves residing in settlements abutting the intracoastal waterway. It is a subject that fascinates me, as I slowly pass by and observe. But right now, I am all wore out!

All the best, Charlie

Tuesday, October 18, 2022

Hard aground

 Hi folks,

Today was a long day. I knocked off quite a few miles and was quite pleased with myself for negotiating the shoal prone Bogue Sound without touching the bottom. Alas, I pulled into the Mile Hammock anchorage in Camp Lejuene and found it to be quite full. Nosing around the perimeter I managed to run gently aground. And the tide was falling. I quickly ran a kedge anchor out in the dinghy, and led the rode back to my primary winch in the cockpit. I did manage to get the boat turned around, but she wouldn't move forward. Finally, I said the heck with it and made dinner. The next high tide is at 0400, so I'll get up around 3:30 and pull her forward about 10 feet. This place is totally protected, with no current and no wakes so it is not a big deal. Other than to my ego..... She will be heeled over at low tide, but it will be pitch dark then so minimal embarrassment!

And its gonna be cold! A freeze warning has been issued for the area. Time to get out the long johns, hat, mittens, etc.

All the best. Charlie

Monday, October 17, 2022

Short day

 Hi folks, 

Spent 2 nights at the town docks of Oriental. Enjoyed meeting Keith Smith who is a good friend of Emily Greenberg. He treated me to a cruise up the local creeks on his delightful, shallow draft powerboat. Simply sublime.

I just went a very short distance today, across the Neuse River to Adams Creek. Not real crazy about anchoring in Beaufort and there was a stiff breeze today with a front passing thru tonite. If any of you happen to see my wife Meg, ask her about the storm we survived a few years back while at anchor in Beaufort. I'll get underway in the morning and skip Beaufort entirely. I am in a decent spot for the frontal passage later. Three boats anchored here and widely separated.

Cheers, Charlie

Saturday, October 15, 2022

Brevity

My new watchword. When my scribblings disappear into the ether I won't cry as much.

Presently at the free town dock in Oriental. Tied up next to a massive shrimper. Very little wind. Regatta day here on the Neuse River and it looks dreadful out there. Sails hanging limp. Water like glass. 

Will report further if this posts successfully.

Best, Charlie

Thursday, October 13, 2022

Digital failure

 Spent a ton of time on update only to have it disappear. I am at the River Rats Yacht Club off the Pungo River.

Best, Charlie

Sunday, October 9, 2022

Elizabeth City

 I have been hanging out with Emily here in Elizabeth City for 5 nights. Two nights at the Mid Atlantic Christian University, and now 3 nights at the city docks, all free. Folks at the University are just delightful, and encourage cruisers to tie up for up to 48 hours. Cathy, from the administration, loaned us her car to procure groceries. And they told Emily she could stay longer given her limited engine options. The protection there from the weather is very good. Emily is going to wait for a weather window to sail around by Manteo on Roanoke Island, whereas I will utilize the engine to transit the ICW with its several manmade cuts. She tried to talk me into taking her route, but I am reluctanr to get way out on the Outer Banks while hurricane season is still in its prime. Plus, I cant fit under the bridge to Roanoke and would have to go further out. Not now. Maybe in the spring. Anyways, I will leave in the morning and head for the Alligator River. Will be out of touch for 2 days as there is a whole lot of nothing with no cell service for probably 80 or 90 miles. There are 3 other boats headed the same way in the morning. But I will miss Emily. She has been a ton of fun to travel with. We are hoping to meet up in Oriental. She really wants me to meet Keith, the guy she will be writing for. She will be staying in Oriental for a while. It will be interesting to see who gets there first.

All the best, Charlie

Thursday, October 6, 2022

The Horror at South Mills Lock

 Hi everyone,

Apologies for the scary title! We are fine! Furthermore, the sun is out for the first time in a week. Emily and I are tied up at the Mid Atlantic Christian University in Elizabeth City. They have a free dock and are super welcoming.

Yesterday morning we bade adieu to the visitors center and continued on our southerly trek. I was delighted to see the absence of duckweed, which should have triggered alarm bells. It was only 4 miles to an opening bridge, which works in conjunction with the lock. We raised the operator on the radio and he warned us of a massive buildup of duckweed at the lock. He said it would take some real work to get thru. Well, I certainly had no intention of turning around. The bridge was easy, and we began motoring the quarter mile to the lock. As we got closer , we could see what the problem was. There was a literal wall, a sort of miasma, that had backed up in the lock entrance. It was a stinking, fetid mass, of duckweed, pine needles, branches, and trash. We hit it at a good clip and came to a complete stop, about 75 feet from the lock entrance. Cooling water for the engine stopped completely, so I shut it down. The green mass was about 2 feet thick. The strong north winds of the previous week had blown everything to this choke point.

Getting in the dinghy, I managed , with considerable difficulty, to get ashore with a long anchor line. Pulling hard, I managed to pull the 2 boats about 10 feet thru the mire. The lockkeeper used the motorised gate to pull Emily's boat another 10 feet. I then ran the line to a bollard in the lock chamber and was able to eventually pull her in. I then made my way back to my boat, and led the anchor line to my cockpit winch. Eventually, I was able to muscle my boat into the lock. The water was then lowered and the other gates opened. But we were still encumbered by the slime. And everything was covered with this disgusting, stinky duckweed. We somehow managed to extricate oursselves from the lock, and make our way to the clear water below. The rest of the way was uneventful, and really quite scenic. The locking process took 2 hours of hard work, and then it was another 2 hours to clean up the unbelievable mess on the decks when we arrived at Elizabeth City. You just never know what might happen when traveling by boat. In 60 years of boating, that was a first!

Cheers, Charlie

Sunday, October 2, 2022

New storm

 Hi everyone,

Here we go again! Yep, a gale warning is in effect for later tonight and tomorrow. In retrospect we could have been on the move today but decided to stay here at the welcome center dock. No big deal. Nice place, fun people, and protected. Emily and I made friends with Phil Reed, who travels on small boats up and down the coast. He is currently on a Sanibel 18. Great guy. Emily interviewed him for a story. He will hunker down and stay here tomorrow also.

Cheers, Charlie

Saturday, October 1, 2022

Silence!

 Hi all!

Happy to report that the storm is over! Calm and peaceful here in the swamp. Emily and I are going to stay here a couple more nights. She is working on writing assignments and we also hope to check out the visitors center and museum more thoroughly.

We did get a huge amount of rain. I had a straight sided bucket sitting in the cockpit that I emptied early on, after about 3 inches had fallen. This morning it had an additional 8 and a half inches in it. The wind was not as bad as tropical storm Michael that I went through 4 years ago with Tom Hickley. It might have gusted around 50. Michael hit 70 and was pretty bad. I can't imagine what the folks in Florida endured.

Happy to be here, safe and sound!

Best regards, Charlie

Friday, September 30, 2022

Deeper in the Swamp

 Hi everyone,

My friend Emily on my buddy boat and I traveled 17 miles further into the swamp yesterday and are tied up at the visitors center in North Carolina. Two other boats are here as well. Super friendly folks. The rain is heavy and every now and then a gust of wind makes it thru the forest fortress to remind us we are on boats. But this is a really safe, fantastic place to be for this storm. And my friend Will Patten was right about the duckweed on the canal. I had to clean the intake strainer a number of times during yesterdays transit. The engine never got hot but you could see a decreased flow out the exhaust. It was a simple matter to shut down the engine, pull the basket from the strainer, empty and clean it, restart and continue on. Since I was towing Emily alongside, she would steer while I did the strainer. Easy peasy! Took about 2 minutes.

Cheers. Charlie

Wednesday, September 28, 2022

Swamp

 Relief! Not sure if Ian is going to amount to anything, but if it does, I am in a super safe spot, the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. There is a lock at either end of the canal, which raises you about 5 feet and removes the tide from the equation. I went thru that first lock and tied up at a free public bulkhead. A supermarket and other stores are a block or two away. Emily is behind me, but close, and might make the last locking in about 15 minutes time. If not, she'll have to anchor for the night and come thru in the morning.

After leaving Deltaville we had some really awesome sailing, but found out that White Seal is much faster than Teal, Emily's boat. Nothing wrong with Teal, but length generally translates into speed. Also, a heavier boat can punch thru the chop more effectively than a lighter one. And when the wind came around from the southwest, Emily suggested we go up the York River for the night. It had become evident that we would be making a nighttime entrance into Hampton Roads and that was a scary thought. So, we spent the night anchored in Poquoson Creek off the York River. Got up early yesterday morning and ran down the York, and then clawed our way against the tide down the Bay. I got within about a mile and watched my speed drop to near zero, along with the wind. Taking the easy way out, I hit the starter button on the diesel and motored into Hampton. A quick run up the creek and I was able to top off the diesel. Unfortunately, the anchorage nearby was full so I went back out to Old Point Comfort to use the anchorage there. Talking to Emily on the phone, I learned that she was about a mile away and unable to make progress against the ebb. We talked about the possibility of my towing her, but given the conditions we decided not to. Not sure if I mentioned this earlier, but Teal has an electric motor with very limited power and range. So I anchored and was able to decompress a bit. After a couple of hours the ebb lessened, and Emily was able to sail right in and anchor. I felt a bit of a fraud, having caved in earlier and starting the diesel.

And then, today! I described in an earlier post, the madness around the Statue of Liberty in NYC. Norfolk is like that, squared. Only instead of annoying jetskiis, you are contending with aircraft carriers, nuclear submarines, and containerships. Crazy! For about 20 miles! So glad to be where I am now.

Best, Charlie

Tuesday, September 27, 2022

Hampton

 Hey everyone,

Emily was right and we took 2 days to get here. Her Tripp 29 is a much smaller boat and has a tough time close hauled in a chop. But no problem. Safe in Hampton and will pass thru Norfolk tomorrow. Will report more details when properly rested!

All the best, Charlie

Sunday, September 25, 2022

Chap named Ian

 Hi folks ,

We are hoping to sail our two boats to Norfolk although Emily is convinced we can't make it. Only 50 miles but her boat is smaller. And we will be fighting the tide a good bit. A cold front with thunderstorms just passed thru and should set us up for westerly winds. And then we should be able to enter the Dismal Swamp the next day. It looks like weather will go downhill on Friday. Maybe just rain, maybe some wind also.

Cheers, Charlie

Friday, September 23, 2022

Chores

 It wasn't all chores! Emily and I went on a tour of the sail loft where she has done some marketing work. We rode bikes through the rural countryside to get there. The wind had died down to a reasonable 30 knots in the gusts so I was comfortable leaving the boat. Emily is tied up at a dock in front of a really choice house sitting on what is probably the nicest piece of real estate on the bay here. I had the use of a marina bike, having paid a very reasonable facilities fee for a week. I also have use of a courtesy car so we took that to the supermarket. After that I did an oil change on the engine, which is a real pain in the neck. It takes me a couple hours, which is crazy, but I haven't been able to speed it up. A motorized pump would speed it up for sure. Anyway, that is out of the way.

I feel a bit like a duck in a shooting gallery right now as the tropics heat up. Might leave for Hampton on Monday. We'll keep assessing the situation. This would actually be a very good place to weather a serious storm, in the marina actually. It is tucked in off this small bay and they have space way in the back. There are some other potential places nearby.

Cool weather tonight, down to around 48. It had been downright hot up till now.

Best, Charlie

Thursday, September 22, 2022

Deltaville

 Yeah, I know. Supposed to be keeping a blog. It appears the Reedville post didn't go thru, so I just posted it now. But that is ancient history. I just had my third night here in Deltaville and I also had a night on Tangier Island.

A bit about Tangier. What a cool place. It's a small island in the middle of the Bay, and it supports a community of about 450 souls. Crab fishing is the main industry, along with a tiny bit of tourism. Tangier is a slice of America that no longer exists. It was really special going there. Leaving Reedville I had a nice breeze, and I could just see the top of the water tower on Tangier. The breeze died a bit and I slowly watched the island rise out of the sea. It seemed incredibly fragile and exposed. I reached the entrance, dropped the sails, and motored slowly in at dead low tide. The channel cuts all the way thru the island and makes a sort of crab boat thorofare. On one side, a line of fish shacks and docks, made for a quintessential working waterfront. The other side was similar, but snuggled right up against the streets of the town. The streets were very narrow, and mainly used by golf carts and pedestrians.

I had tied up at Parks Marina, and I was the only pleasure boat in town, although 3 other sailboats did come in late. I managed to find one of the owners, who was installing a new engine in a crabber, and paid him the docking fee of $35. Anchoring is not an option in the harbor. I spent the afternoon walking around, going to the museum, and eating crab cakes. Needless to say, the crab cakes were fabulous.

It was painful to leave early the next morning but the forecast was a bit worrisome, and I didn't want to get stuck in the marina for days while going thru dockage fees. So I continued on to Deltaville where I met up with my friend Emily Greenberg. I first attempted Jackson Creek, where I went aground right in the entrance. I had been going very slowly, so just backed off, said screw it, and motored around to Fishing Bay. Emily has her boat at a dock nearby and is wrapping up some work before heading to Oriental, NC. We are going to 'buddy' boat down to Elizabeth City thru the Dismal Swamp. Emily does a lot of freelance writing, including a number of recent articles in SAIL magazine.

There is a gale warning in effect for tonight and tomorrow, so I will be hunkered down. The high winds will be from the north and this is a great spot.

Best to all, Charlie

Reedville

 Anchored near the spot where Tom Hickley and I rode out tropical storm Michael 4 years ago. Much more peaceful today. Very little wind on the Bay today and I ended up motoring all the way. Left Solomons where I had spent a couple of nights following a really great sail over from Oxford on the Eastern Shore. Satisfying in that I sailed off the anchor, wing and wing down the Tred Avon, a close reach on part of the Choptank, then a long run downwind. Finished up with another reach into Solomons, where I finally doused the sails and motored into the harbor.

Yesterday I went to the Calvert Marine Museum, which I enjoyed immensely. Especially the small craft exhibit. I have decided I really need a Hooper's Island draketail workboat. Not sure what I would do with it in Vermont, but it would look cool!

I was tempted to sleep in this morning, but the next couple of days would have kept me in Solomons or had me slogging to windward so I decided to set out. There ended up being very little wind, in an area where I often get slammed. And now I am in Virginia, just like that. I am thinking about staying here tomorrow, then possibly going across to Tangier on Monday.

Cheers, Charlie

Wednesday, September 14, 2022

Oxford

 Yesterday resulted in more great sailing! I motored out of Weems Creek over to the fuel dock in Annapolis, where the rather snarky manager was not happy with my purchase of 6 and a half gallons of diesel. That figure represented my useage from Atlantic Highlands and resulted from motoring at various points when the wind fizzled out, as well as thru the C&D canal, where sailing is prohibited. At any rate, this worthy informed me that there would be a twenty dollar charge to fill my 2 five gallon water jugs. I declined the opportunity and shoved off. I motored past the mooring field and hoisted sail in a nice northwesterly breeze. Headed down the Bay in the company of several Navy vessels and a slew of commercial traffic. A few hours later I headed up the Choptank River and eventually to the Tred Avon. I thought about entering the tight harbor of Oxford under sail, as the wind served well  but decided against it. I am older, and ostensibly wiser, right? Dropped anchor in a really lovely town. Tons of boats, and today I went poking around in the Cutts and Case Shipyard. This yard is just fantastic, especially for wooden boat afficianados. Walking around town was great too. This is part of Talbot County and it's most famous inhabitant was none other than Frederick Douglass, whose autobiography I happen to be reading. So there is a lot of history here, much of it very painful. And yet, great natural beauty and richly prolific with life.

I will likely head back across the Bay tomorrow for Solomon's Island. Weather looks good.

Best regards. Charlie

Monday, September 12, 2022

More rain....

 Today has actually been pretty decent, but the humidity is about 200%. Sweat just dripping off with the slightest exertion. It really is an order of magnitude worse than Vermont. But being completely free of minor aches and pains makes it acceptable.

This morning I walked into town and took in the veritable smorgasbord of historic architecture that constitutes old Annapolis. Love it! Also went into the Naval Academy and did a tour of the visitors center. One thing I noticed walking around the waterfront was that there was a lot of empty dockspace and vacant moorings. I guess I'm just early to the party. Ok with me. Translates into plenty of anchoring room.

I just finished doing some water management chores. Dealing with drinking water is a bit of a pain, but critical. I have about 25 plastic containers holding a couple quarts each and available for use in the galley. There's 20 gallons available in a stainless steel tank, but it often has little chunks floating around in it, which results in howls of outrage from the crew. So that is used for washing, rinsing, tooth brushing, etc. Incidentally, I drink it with no ill effect. The I have 3 five gallon containers whic I store in the bilge. So, I used those to top off the small containers, and tomorrow, when I stop to get fuel, I will fill those with nice fresh water. Try not to let anything sit for too long

If weather looks good I will probably head out in the morning.

Best to all, Charlie

Saturday, September 10, 2022

Annapolis

 Hey everyone!

Had a really nice sail down from Georgetown, running mostly wing and wing. Clear and sunny with the rain in the rear view mirror. One of the great things about Annapolis is just how many cool sailboats there are. Quite a few were out on the Bay as I came sailing under the bridge. 

Been here a couple of nights and will likely hang around longer. Did some varnishing today and got the holding tank pumped out. I the replaced the vent hose, which had gotten permeated with foul odors. Not good. I tried to get an inline filter for that application but was unsuccessful after a 4 mile walk to West Marine. Chandleries these days are a joke. What they stock are things like clothing, chrome plated drink holders, and shot glasses with cute little anchors on them.

Anyways, I won't go into the details of working on the sanitation system, but suffice to say it has been unpleasant and frustrating.

I was hoping to get a visit from my niece and her family, but alas, they have come down with Covid. No symptoms and they are young.

Best  Charlie

Tuesday, September 6, 2022

Rain day

 Wow. It really rains in these parts. Never made it off the boat today. It did stop around 4, but rather than row a considerable distance I elected to do some buffing and waxing. Gotta protect the gelcoat and keep her looking good. Did the cabin trunk. Bailed the dinghy which was literally on the verge of sinking. And, something dreadful happened today, at which I am at a loss to explain. White Seal developed a leak into the cabin, a situation which is totally unacceptable. I actually saw the drip, and was suitably horrified. It is in way of the companionway hatch frame, which I had removed and rebedded a mere 2 years ago. There is, happily, a silver lining. The drip is directly over the galley sink. However, if one is doing the dishes during a downpour, they should expect one drop per minute on their head. Truth be told, there are a couple of other very small leaks when there is a deluge. When things dry out I will address them. 

Supposed to be a bit drier tomorrow. Hope to get ashore then.

Cheers, Charlie

Monday, September 5, 2022

Sassafras River

 Hi everyone!

I see I haven't posted for several days. It's due to a combination of being busy sailing and not having internet. At the moment I am anchored i Georgetown, Maryland. It's a hot day with very little wind. After spending a night in Cape May, I decided to grab the opportunity to travel up Delaware Bay. Those who have passed this way know it can be an ugly body of water. Strong tidal currents, heavy shipping traffic, and only a couple of places to seek refuge, make for a tough 56 miles. The tide was going to be perfect  and the wind would make for a beam reach, so I could't resist. And I was very reluctant to hang out on the Jersey coast with peak hurricane season here.

I used the engine for about an hour, which got me through Cape May, through the short canal, and out into the bay a bit. I went with a full main and the big genoa. It was blowing up to about 18 or 20 and made for a great ride. There were a couple of sailboats that were too big to fit under the bridges on the canal and I met up with them. We stayed more or less together, with White Seal pulling ahead of the smaller one, a Beneteau of around 50 feet in length. That was satisfying, but the the wind died and they unrolled their genoa all the way, pulling ahead. Eventually, we all resorted to our engines and they left me behind.

Eventually, around 3:00, I entered the C&D canal, which can be a bit nerve wracking. It accomodates large ships, and believe me, caution is the order of the day. But I did not encounter any, and made it without incident to Chesapeake City, where I anchored.

This swret small town is home to one of Mary's childhood friends, Clara Childers, now married to Matt Brinkerhoff. They had been forewarned, and so, the next morning I enjoyed breakfast at their house. I decided to stay anchored where I was for the day, and sleep and read. Hey, I'm retired. Clara and Matt came to visit the boat, late in the afternoon. It was great to see them.

The next morning I eased carefully out into the canal and motored for a couple hours to Turkey Point, where the Bay becomes wide enough to sail. The wind was light, and on the nose, so I started beating to windward. Picking my way around crab pots, I entered the Sassafras and sailed to the entrance of Turner Creek. It was a very narrow but adequate channel and once inside offered complete protection. There was one other cruising boat. I spent the night there and took a couple trips ashore to ckeck out the small but lovely county park. I am in the south now. Different trees, architecture, boats, people, etc. A confused Marylander was flying the Confederate flag on his crab boat. Maybe his ancestors had wanted Maryland to secede. I passed a Grade A plantation a ways back and some lesser examples here on the Sassafras. More to come. Crummy weather coming and I am looking forward to getting all the salt rinse off. White Seal is covered with it. Hoping to get ashore and score some fresh food. Last of the oranges had gone bad. Must. Avoid. Scurvy.

Best to all, Charlie

PS I was hoping to get some photos or video on here, but it is simply beyond my capabilities. Very frustrating! I can navigate a sailboat for tens of thousands of miles but getting a photo online is just not possible! Johannah showed me, but obviously the lesson didn't stick.

Thursday, September 1, 2022

Jersey Shore sleighride

 Well, that was fun! I slept during the heat of the day today after the excitement of charging down the coast yesterday. The passage of a cold front late Tuesday brought a favorable west breeze off the land and Ron and I took advantage of it. We were underway at 0615 and motorsailed for an hour to get well clear of Sandy Hook. There were several other sailboats and we smoked them all except for a big beautiful Hinckley. We were keeping up with them till there was a lull in the wind and they pulled ahead. The forecast had been for 10-15  with gusts to 25 but in reality it was 15 to 25 and eventually going up to 30. A single reef was used at the start along with the working jib. At the middle of the afternoon we were really punishing the boat and I doused the jib and replaced it with the storm jib. The seas at that point were quite confused and as Ron will attest we were getting soused with large dollops of seawater. We also had a whale that breached nearby. The point of sail had turned from a beam reach to closehauled as the coastline trended southwesterly. I was wearing my tether as I moved about the decks. Much to my surprise we passed Atlantic City before nightfall. After sunset the wind dropped off and we motorsailed the rest of the way to Cape May, arriving there at about 0100. We elected to spend the night just jogging slowly back and forth with just the single reefed mainsail and a line tied loosely to the tiller, a combo that has worked well in the past. And while we were motorsailing we used the autopilot which worked flawlessly. But we hand steered during the 70 or so miles when it was really cranking. Don't yet trust the autopilot to handle that. It was really great to have Ron Rost along. He made what would have been a grueling trip into a real treat. And his music! He brought his mountain dulcimer and recorder along. What a treat! Thanks Ron! I dropped him at the dock this morning so he could make his way home.

Best to all  Charlie

Tuesday, August 30, 2022

Atlantic Highlands

 After bidding Johannah an emotional farewell I welcomed Ron back aboard. We had a really nice rousing sail down the bay to Atlantic Highlands. I am relearning the NOAA weather peoples style for forecasting the wind along the coast. They called for southerly winds of 5 to 10, all day. On the lake, this would translate to almost calm. So I assumed it would be 10 to 15 and bent on the working jib. But initially, for about an hour, we motored through the flotilla of commercial traffic. Hoisting sail finally, we tacked under the Verrazano Bridge. Simply sublime. We had the tide in our favor and fairly flew down the bay in spite of the wind being against us. The wind continued to build and I eventually had to put in a reef. At this point it was clearly blowing over 20, probably up to 25. As we neared our destination we were near a large ship terminal complex, with a ship tied up. There was a buoy that we were sailing by that proclaimed it to be a restricted area. As we passed we noticed some more writing on the other side. It said keep out and that lethal force was authorized. Ron and I decided not to loiter in the area and tacked immediately. We had a good nervous laugh about it. No idea what goes on there.

Today we got some fuel and a pumpout. Walked into town and came up with a solution for the failing inverter. And we might sail down the shore in the morning, depending on the weather. Cold front tonight, NW winds tomorrow.

All the best, Charlie

Sunday, August 28, 2022

Brief look at the city

We found a better place to chain up the dinghy, a spot that ended up eluding the sharp eyes of the authorities here. So Johannah and I set off to explore. Our hope was to walk to the subway station, 3 miles away, but there were just too many obstacles. No sidewalks, broken glass and smashed buildings, and scary traffic were contributing factors. So we caved in and Johannah downloaded the Lyft app. The driver dropped us off at the Grove Street station and we began learning about the subway system. We were surprised to find there were no maps or diagrams showing where it went. Johannah managed to download one and we investigated buying a ticket. Once again, there was no indication whatsoever as to what a ride might cost, so we took a wild guess and purchased a ticket with a value of 10 bucks. Then, the trick was to figure out how to get it to operate the turnstile. Johannah eventually got through, but I was unable. I finally said the heck with it, and jumped the turnstile. We enjoyed a long subway ride and were eventually deposited at 33rd St. It occurred to me that we could have probably rowed the dinghy to the Battery in less time, but we would surely have been run over by one of the insane boat operators in the harbor.

The city is just amazing, as always. It is stunning that people actually live there, willingly, but they do. I always feel like the complete bumpkin there, but Johannah is very comfortable and able to navigate those shoals. We walked around, visited Bryant Park, ate some street food which didn't kill us, and eventually headed back. And the dinghy was waiting upon our return.

Later, we enjoyed a visit from my friend Ron Rost, fellow sailor and musician extraordinaire. He brought his mountain dulcimer and played some really exquisite music. We talked about his spending some time aboard during this trip. He might join me tomorrow for a sail down to Atlantic Highlands, although it is now looking like the wind is going to be right on the nose. As they say, gentlemen don't beat to windward, and the idea of beating in a channel is less than appealing. I'll see what tomorrow brings. Johannah did get a reservation for Amtrak, so she will be heading out, sadly.

Good night, Charlie

Big Apple Transit

 We had a north wind yesterday and it was fine! At least for a while. We managed to sail for about 4 hours, mostly wing and wing, from the beginning of the Palisades down to mid town Manhattan. We were bucking a flood tide, but it gave us a nice slow look at the spectacles of the skyline, both of Manhattan and of Hoboken.

The previous evening allowed for some exploration of Nyack, which turned out to be a lovely place. Gaining access to shore was a bit problematic, but we met a fellow at a yacht club there who allowed us to tie the dinghy up for a couple of hours. We found the town to be quite busy as we walked up Main Street. Seems to be thriving with tons of eateries, folks on the sidewalks strolling, etc. On our return to the Yacht Club we found the place locked up, so we scaled the chain link fence, ignored any security cameras, and left in our dinghy. Happily, the wind had died down and the anchorage was quite pleasant for the evening.

Transiting New York Harbor in a small boat is quite remarkable. It wasn't bad till we got to the Battery at the tip of Manhattan. From that point on it was utter chaos. The waters were turned into a froth from the intersecting wakes of every imaginable type of vessel proceeding in every direction at flank speed. I can only imagine how many mishaps must have taken place in this area over the centuries. The primary concern would be high speed collisions. There were tugs and barges, tour boats, ferries, kayaks, paddleboards, sailboats, and the resulting bedlam was a sight to behold. I was trying to get my navigation app to download the appropriate chart while Johannah was doing a stellar job on the tiller avoiding multiple ongoing catastrophes. While all of this was going on the air was filled with helicopters taking tourists on a fly by of the Statue of Liberty. The thump thump of rotors would be with us till sunset. We pulled into the Liberty Park anchorage and after several attempts managed to get a good spot. Thankfully, there is no current in this anchorage, and none of the wakes make it in from the main harbor.

There appears to be no safe place to leave a dinghy on shore, but we chained ours to a light pole. I was very apprehensive about leaving it there so after walking about for a bit, I returned to safeguard it while Johannah explored the park. She has determined there is a train of some type that can be taken to Manhattan and on to Penn Station where she will catch the Amtrak. Turns out todays train is fully booked, but she has made a reservation for tomorrow. And, there is a possibility her aunt and uncle will pay us a visit today as they live here in northern New Jersey. So today looks like a day of rest, and probably some puttering around on the boat. Or, maybe a trip into the city, if I can secure the dinghy in a better fashion.

Johannah sailing under her favorite bridge, the George Washington!

Friday, August 26, 2022

Onward to the Tappan Zee

 Hi Folks,

Underway at 0600. Had to clear a huge mat of weeds that had drifted down on the boat overnight and caught on the anchor and the bow. I managed to get them loose but it turned out that a bunch got caught on the rudder and the propellor. The boat was just not moving as per usual. So, I shut the engine off, donned a swim mask, and went over the side. Johannah kept a close eye on me as I cleared the weeds, first by hand, then finally with a knife. It took 4 dives and all was clear. Water was delightfully warm. Had I done this in October I would be singing a different tune. This took place in front of Franklin Roosevelts house at Hyde Park. 

We continued as a motorboat. No wind, though at times there was a light breeze from dead ahead. Sunny, and hot at first, but gradually clouding up. Passed a large northbound ship just south of Poughkeepsie. Usual amount of smaller barge and tug traffic. Passing West Point and World's End was spectacular as always. Johannah feels the river has lived up to my advance billing, which makes me happy. We just missed a thunderstorm by the Indian Point Nuclear station. We turned the corner onto the Tappan Zee and were slapped with a stiff southerly breeze of about 20-25 mph which was quite a surprise. I thought about sailing and beating to windward, but at that point we only had about 4 miles to go so we just powered into it. The anchorage at Nyack was grim, with tide opposing the wind and boats rolling wildly, while surging back and forth on their anchors. Shortly after arrival, we joined the club, pitching and yawing wildly. Eventually the tide relented and the wind has died, so it is now quite pleasant. However, there is a thunderstorm bearing down on us, so I am reluctant to go ashore. I can sense that Johannah, given the proximity of the shore, would love to explore, but alas, concerns about weather and the safety of the boat will keep us here for the immediate future.

One tragic bit of news that I just discovered, is that the 79th street boat basin on Manhattan is shut down for several years, for a complete rebuilding. This iconic spot has been around since the 1930's, and really was the only  place where folks of average means could afford to stay. So, with that option no longer available, we may land at Coney Island, where there is a supposedly secure anchorage. From there, we could get Johannah into Manhattan for her train ride home on Sunday. And tomorrows forecast calls for light northerly winds, so there may finally be some sailing in the offing!

Cheers everyone, Charlie

Thursday, August 25, 2022

I'm a slacker



Hi everyone/anyone,

I seem to be slipping on these posts. After a night at lock 4 we had a good day, albeit very rainy with a thunderstorm thrown in, on our way to the Castleton Boat Club. We got a mooring for the night and paid to use the crane in the morning. I was wondering how inflation may have hit the Boat Club, but it still cost only $55, which was what I believe I paid over 30 years ago. For comparison, at the marina where I used to work, it would have been over $400.

Yesterday morning found us at the dock, and Johannah getting a quick tutorial as a crane operator. I forgot to mention that I had made up a new forestay and  upper shroud, using materials that I had had shipped to the boat club. Shoutout to Vermont Sailing Partners for making that happen. The weather for stepping the mast was perfect. Flat calm, no wind, and no boat traffic, although we did wait for a barge to go by. The stepping really was a piece of cake. But I decided to opt for another night on the mooring, since we were most of the day getting the rigging sorted out, tuned, sail on, etc. It was also blisteringly hot which necessitated multiple swimming breaks. All in all a very productive day.

This morning had us up before daybreak and we fired up the engine at 0600. Yes, we are still a motorboat. It was flat calm most of the day, but with an occasional very light wisp of a breeze out of the south, which was the direction we were trying to go. Quite beautiful though, with a good bit of fog early. Saw some commercial traffic in the form of barges and tugs. Surprisingly light pleasure boat traffic. At 3PM we decided to drop anchor, just south of the Norrie Boat Basin. We'd have gone further but there are not many places to anchor over the next 30 miles or so. Actually, there are no places to anchor. The Hudson on that section is deep, right up to shore. But we had gotten over 50 miles in, so were content to stop  and put the swim ladder out. We also rowed into the boat basin and purchased some more ice. The icebox is not doing so well, what with hot temps and the engine running nearby all day long. But, we have been enjoying nice cool provisions and drinks since Orwell.

Sounds like potential thunderstorm activity tomorrow. My goal is to get within striking distance of the City and be in a good spot to weather the frontal passage. Calm conditions are supposed to prevail tonight, but I wouldn't want to be in this spot during a serious blow.

Trip is going well so far! Everybody is happy and well fed!

Cheers, Charlie and Johannah 


This photo is available thanks to Johannah's efforts and IT skills. She managed to set up my laptop using my phone as a mobile hotspot and a different screen pops up that gives me photo options. It looks way complicated, but I will see if I can learn this process. This photo is off my favorite historic lighthouse, the Esopus Meadows light. Lovely!

Monday, August 22, 2022

Into the Canal

 Departed Whitehall at about a quarter after 7 AM. Johannah handled her first lock transit with aplomb. We made it from Lock 12 to just outside Lock 4. We got there right at 5 when they close for the day . The lock keeper said we could tie up for the night with no problems. We took a walk into Stillwater village, where we picked up an extremely important item that I had forgotten, mosquito repellent! Johannah is heating up a delicious looking dish of mushrooms and orzo that she had prepared the day before and has been awaiting us in the icebox. Yum!

50 years ago:

A Honda? Huh? My father had found a little portable generator made by a company he had never heard of, called Honda. His thinking was that I could use it to run a sander, a drill, and some other tools when shoreside power wasn't available. I was pretty much sick of sanding at that time, what with a fleet of 10 charter boats, and therefore not keen on another device that could get more work out of Charlie. But then I realized, the generator that was buried in a deck locker could run a battery charger. I dug it out and Fred was delighted when it fired up. I can't remember how long it took, but after a while, the Perkins fired up and order was restored. We didn't need to run it continuously since we still had wind, but we conserved the batteries and continued pumping by hand. A day or so later, we motored into the Ft. Pierce inlet and had the boat hauled out. The source of the leak was immediately evident. A plank end, far forward at the stem, was sprung, and allowing a good bit of water to enter. A couple of new fasteners and we were on our way. Back on the ocean and down to Ft. Lauderdale, where, very uncharacteristically, my frugal mother booked us a slip at the uber expensive Pier 66. My father must have experienced heart palpitations when he found out about that bill.

We secured a much more reasonable berth up the New River, and everyone headed home but me. I was to keep the boat maintained and looking great for a potential sale. I spent the winter doing that, and picked up a job washing dishes on a restaurant dining boat. And the schooner did sell, to an actual Greek shipowner. 

And so ended my first cruise south! Hope you enjoyed hearing about it!

Sunday, August 21, 2022

Whitehall, birthplace of US Navy

 Actually, there are several claimants to that title, but Whitehalls is fairly solid. Benedict Arnold built a fleet of ships here in 1776 and they were used later that year in a major battle on Lake Champlain. Anyway, we, (Johannah Schneider and I) are tied up on that site, which is now the Whitehall Marina. We had a nice run down what is a really beautiful part of the lake when Johannah arrived a bit after 2. Normally I would go thru the first lock and tie up on the bulkhead for free, but the authorities have reduced the hours of operation, so I caved in and rented a slip for the night. An extremely bad habit to get into, but there don"t appear to be any anchoring options.

Meanwhile, the other story continues:

The batteries weren't completely dead, they just didn't have the oomph to turn over the big Perkins diesel. But Fred could read the writing on the wall and asked if we had a manual pump aboard that didn't require electricity. I got out of a storage locker a large Edson pump that fit the bill. And so the pumping began. It was quite tiring, but we had motivation, knowing that we were 50 miles offshore on what no one could deny was a sinking boat. We took turns, and with 4 able bodied men aboard we were able to keep up with it. I don't recall my mother taking a turn, and my dear little sister was clueless. We discussed which inlets on the Florida coast would be easiest to negotiate under sail and figured it would be based on the weather at the time. Then I remembered the Honda.

To be continued


Saturday, August 20, 2022

Another Day in Orwell

 Not a lot to report. Got the final coat of paint on the mast this morning. Had nice visit with Bruce on Timshel, who I had met in the Exumas with his wife Karen on the last trip. Gonna be a hot day. Need to finish the macerator installation and reinstall some hardware on the mast.


And now, back in time. The storm died down the next day and we found ourselves moving steadily along in pleasant conditions. But we noticed that the bilge pump had come on and was staying on for a disconsertingly long time. It would shut off, and then start running again. We had developed a leak, probably as a result of the storm. The Sea Song was a wooden vessel, and though stoutly constructed and relatively new, was not immune to seawater intent on making its way inside. Attempting to discover the source of the leak we removed the floorboards and peered into the dank recesses of the bilge. The problem was that most deep areas of the bilge had massive iron pigs fitted in that provided ballast. These pigs weighed around 60 #'s apiece and were well nigh impossible to move around without resulting in smashed fingers. And the pump kept running. The interval between run cycles was getting shorter. Fred realized that we had been putting quite a strain on the batteries what with running the navigation lights and the bilge pump so he decided to fire up the engine for some battery charging time. As he pushed the starter button there was a very feeble sound as the engine turned about a quarter of a revolution, then silence. The batteries were dead.

To be continued.

Thursday, August 18, 2022

 Definition of cruising

Boat repair in exotic locations. Thanks to my good friend Silas for that definition. Not sure if Orwell, Vermont qualifies as an exotic location, but it is a lovely place. 

After the rain stopped and things dried off, I sanded the mast and applied the first coat of paint. My former boss and friend, George, would refer to it as a 20 footer. This means that it presents well at a distance of 20 feet. I suppose I could strive for a true yacht finish, involving hundreds of dollars in multi part linear polyurethane painting components, and getting the mast inside a paint booth where I could utilize maximum technology, but no. I'm just using a sheet of sandpaper, a bit of paint thinner, and a quart of Rustoleum. Total cost, with tax, a bit over 20 bucks.

A brief trip back in time, to Charleston, 50 years ago. We spent several delightful days there, while my father managed to rustle up another captain, a really great local guy named Fred Wickman. We set out one late afternoon, and by midnight we were in a strong northeast wind, blowing over 30 knots. It was spectacular sailing, running wing and wing. About 3 am, Fred asked me to douse the jib and the staysail, as they were mostly just flogging about. The staysail was easy, but jib involved making my way out on the bowsprit to haul down and secure the sail. I took in the view, with the big seas, the low scudding clouds, the moon flashin through, and resolved to always remember that moment. I still do.

Battery a bit low, so, Good night all!

Charlie

Wednesday, August 17, 2022

 Mast down today

I sailed off the mooring yesterday morning at 0825, with serious doubts about proceeding on the trip. It was mostly a result of excessive worrying about a host of things I won't delve into at the moment. Suffice to say that being on the move once again, on a small boat, helped to rearrange my outlook. It was a nice day, although I did end up motoring through calms for almost 3 hours. The majority was under sail.

Arrived at Chipman Point Marina, which is a favorite spot, and Chip, the owner, and a friend, agreed to unstep the mast, which we did today, shortly after lunch. I am planning to paint the mast over the next several days.

Just took a break to close things up as a rain squall has started. Really coming down!

Good friends Tom, Michelle, and Douglas came down and took me out to a great dinner at the Wheel Inn in Benson.

Back to the trip south of 50 years ago. After leaving Norfolk we were a couple of weeks moving south to Charleston. Mostly under power, being on a vessel not suitable for close quarter sailing, but we did get some sailing in on the big waters of North Carolina, like Albemarle Sound, Pamlico Sound, and the Neuse River. We spent several days in Morehead City, for reasons I have forgotten, but used the time to meet some local youth and party a bit. Eventually, we found ourselves in Charleston and I felt a huge sense of relief in having gotten the boat there without screwing something up. It was a good confidence booster for me as well. I had gotten a low number in the draft lottery and had decided I didn't really want to be in the army. My dad had been in the Navy and I decided that would be for me. But I flunked the physical due to a lack of depth perception. So I felt like a real loser. Even the military, sending kids to Viet Nam in droves, didn't want me. So that 2 week stretch was really just what I needed.


Till the next time, Charlie

Sunday, August 14, 2022

 Provisioning

Hi everyone, or anyone for that matter! Getting ready for my Golden Jubilee cruise. Filling the lockers aboard with food, tools, clothing, spares, you name it. Trying to get the house in order for Meg so that things won't fall apart immediately when I leave. She has proven more than capable of keeping things going here. I haven't really told a lot of people I am doing this, so there will be no going away party, no fanfare. Just the way I like it. Hoping to leave sometime during this upcoming week. Yes, I know it's early, and hurricane season is nigh, but my hope is to be able to spend some time enjoying Chesapeake Bay. In other years I have been generally freezing my butt there, and under pressure to make time in a southerly direction.

Back to some remembrances of my first trip. We had pulled out of the Shelburne Shipyard on Lake Champlain with the masts on deck, and the 85 HP Perkins diesel running strong. It took us 4 days total to transit the southern part of the lake, the canal, and the Hudson River, finishing up at City Island. I had made most of this trip in the opposite direction a couple of summers earlier, helping to bring a 45' Alden ketch from Tarrytown, NY to Shelburne. This was another of my father's charter boats. So I was familiar with the river and the beauty of the area. The trip thus far on the schooner Sea Song had been uneventful and we were looking forward to restepping the masts and heading out to sea. None more so than one young man, whose name I disremember, but to whom we shall refer as "Ted". Ted was full of confidence and swagger, and was very disappointed with the work we were doing to get the boat ready for sea, which he deemed as mostly unnecessary and a waste of time. And indeed, it was mostly of a cosmetic nature, since we were enjoying a rare late November warm spell, which Captain Don wanted to make full use of. It was really only about 4 days that we spent at City Island doing that work, but Ted couldn't wait, and made it clear to everyone just how frustrated he was.

Finally, we slipped the docking lines and headed out through Hell Gate and down the East River. It is a process of several hours to negotiate the vastness of New York Harbor, but we finally headed out the Ambrose Channel and set a course southward. The change that overtook Ted was remarkable. As the sails were hoisted and the bow of the Sea Song met the incoming swell of the Atlantic, Ted developed an ashen look, vomited over the side, and retired to his bunk. This marked the end of any usefulness Ted may have had, and it left Captain Don without a watch mate. Don, incidentally, was the penultimate captain, a really great guy, and consummate sailor. Thankfully, I found myself unaffected by any hint of seasickness. If I remember correctly, we spent a couple of nights at sea and found ourselves at daybreak off the Delmarva Coast, right near the entrance to Chesapeake Bay. These were the days before good weather forecasting, but we did hear on the radio about a severe cold front that had passed through Washington DC, bringing high winds and snow, that was headed our way. Sure enough, I was at the helm, riding a flood tide over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel, when the front hit. We started the Perkins, dropped the sails since the wind was almost on the nose, and started pounding into some really ugly waves. They were very steep and close together, not surprising, given the opposition of wind and tide. The weather bureau was saying 7-14 feet, and I could believe it. The wind was about 40 knots.  Captain Don was exhausted, having gotten practically no sleep during the last 2 days, Ted was out of commission, and the other crew member didn't have much experience, though he was very helpful. So I was stuck steering. Eventually we made Hampton Roads and the conditions moderated. Turning the corner into Norfolk was a real relief. We pulled into the big marina there and celebrated our survival with a quiet but heartfelt thanks.

Ted had undergone something of a revival, but the result was that of a completely shattered man. He gathered up his gear quietly and without fanfare. Saying goodbye, he allowed that he was seeking a new life in Kansas, as far from the ocean as he could possibly get. He appeared to be completely serious. Nobody stood in his way as he walked down the dock, away from the salt water, and all it represented. Meanwhile, Captain Don had to return to Vermont for work, and so I was left as the owner's representative,(my father), in spite of being the youngest person aboard. Needless to say, this precipitated a collect call to my dad, and I asked him what he wanted me to do. My father was busy working in one of his other businesses and couldn't spare the time to come down, so he suggested I take the boat south, using the Intracoastal Waterway. This seemed to me like quite a stretch, given my lack of coastal experience, but I was too cowed by the old man to argue back. Then, he sweetened the pot a bit by saying he would send my mother and little sister down to help me. My mother I could see, but sis was only just 10 years old and likely to be as useful as Ted was. But I acquiesced and allowed that I would do it. Sure enough, a couple of days later they showed up, and without further ado, I headed out as a completely green 18 year old captain, on waters I was totally unfamiliar with. But at least I wasn't the youngest aboard anymore, that honor went to my sister.

To be continued.

Friday, August 12, 2022

 Here I go again.....

Not sure why I do this, but I am getting ready to do another trip south. It's really a beautiful time of year here in Vermont and I am quite comfortable in retirement so there is no logical reason why I would go back to living in cramped conditions, dealing with horrible weather, and being away from my lovely wife for many months. No, it makes no sense at all. But there is something about making long trips in small boats that I just can't stay away from.

It was 50 years ago, in 1972, that I made my first trip south. I was crew aboard my father's schooner, "Sea Song", and he wanted the boat delivered to Ft. Lauderdale where it would be advertised for sale. She was 43' on deck, 52' overall, heavily built in Nova Scotia, and gaff rigged. She was one of the boats in the family charter business and I was quite familiar with her, having been responsible for some of the maintenance and assisting the charterers during summers on Lake Champlain. I was capable of taking her out on my own starting around the age of 15 and I remember making other boat owners very nervous in the close confines of the docks at the Shelburne Shipyard. At that age, I was very small, and looked to be about 12 years old, so the seasoned skippers would look askance as I manoevered the massive schooner into the dock around all the other boats, but happily, I never caused any damage.

I will tell more of this story in later posts!