Hi everyone,
After several days of getting thoroughly beaten and demoralized by strong winds and ferocious currents I decided a day of rest was in order. I pulled into Oriental and was exceedingly fortunate to score one of two free, public dock spots in the small protected harbor. These spots are highly coveted and come with a 2 day limit. Last night I enjoyed a really wonderful sleep. It was absolutely flat calm, completely quiet, and bug free. I slept until 6:45, an amazing luxury. Oriental is lovely. It would probably be described by many as 'dead' but they would be missing the essence of a small, out of the way, southern town. There are a number of folks from out of town, mostly sailors, who have chosen to settle here. A really nice combination of folks. A mix of pleasure boats and work boats in the harbor. Wikipedia says the population is around 900, although it looks like more than that to me. I guess I'm just a small town guy, but this is the kind of place that really resonates with me!
Here's to small towns,
Charlie
Tuesday, April 30, 2019
Sunday, April 28, 2019
Relentless wind
Hi all,
Well now, I am thoroughly pooped. 75 miles today, and not by choice. The wind built up strong in the afternoon of the past 3 or 4 days. This meant that by 1PM the wind was howling, and stealing a great deal of energy from yours truly. I had hoped to anchor in Swansboro, but the 30 knot wind, combined with a very strong tidal current rendered the anchorage untenable. The 2 marinas there were very exposed, with non floating docks, and I could see there would be problems with the well being of the boat. Great, no marinas for 30 miles. One possible anchorage, but the guidebook said shoaling was a problem. Looking at the chartbook, which was apt to be torn from my grasp by the wind at any second, I noticed a spot of deeper water just outside the channel, about 25 miles away. I had no other option so I went for it. I was ashamed of myself for motoring in such a fine breeze, but I would have been aground in 30 seconds had I tried. Got to the spot about a half hour before dark. Completely exposed, but it will suffice for the night. A bit like anchoring last night, in Wrightsville Beach, another woefully inadequate anchorage. Will be heading more inland tomorrow. Can't wait!
Best to all, Charlie
Well now, I am thoroughly pooped. 75 miles today, and not by choice. The wind built up strong in the afternoon of the past 3 or 4 days. This meant that by 1PM the wind was howling, and stealing a great deal of energy from yours truly. I had hoped to anchor in Swansboro, but the 30 knot wind, combined with a very strong tidal current rendered the anchorage untenable. The 2 marinas there were very exposed, with non floating docks, and I could see there would be problems with the well being of the boat. Great, no marinas for 30 miles. One possible anchorage, but the guidebook said shoaling was a problem. Looking at the chartbook, which was apt to be torn from my grasp by the wind at any second, I noticed a spot of deeper water just outside the channel, about 25 miles away. I had no other option so I went for it. I was ashamed of myself for motoring in such a fine breeze, but I would have been aground in 30 seconds had I tried. Got to the spot about a half hour before dark. Completely exposed, but it will suffice for the night. A bit like anchoring last night, in Wrightsville Beach, another woefully inadequate anchorage. Will be heading more inland tomorrow. Can't wait!
Best to all, Charlie
Friday, April 26, 2019
Hunkered down
Hi everyone,
Based on the forecast I decided to lay low at my anchorage here at Dutchman Creek in Southport, North Carolina. I did an oil change this morning and finished a book this afternoon. But I could have made a few miles since the thunderstorms have not yet materialized. The wind is really howling though, and it may just be a matter of time before the weather hits. Time to look for a new book.
Best, Charlie
Based on the forecast I decided to lay low at my anchorage here at Dutchman Creek in Southport, North Carolina. I did an oil change this morning and finished a book this afternoon. But I could have made a few miles since the thunderstorms have not yet materialized. The wind is really howling though, and it may just be a matter of time before the weather hits. Time to look for a new book.
Best, Charlie
Thursday, April 25, 2019
Into North Carolina
Hi everyone,
Not much to report, another 65 mile day. Doesn't sound like much, but remember, I am going at a brisk walk, or maybe a slow jog.
So here is something noteworthy. Earlier today I transited the infamous Rock Pile, a notoriously narrow and rocky area of the ICW near Myrtle Beach. I called ahead and found that there was a southbound tug and barge coming thru but I was confident I could get thru before it showed up. Sadly, I was almost thru when I encountered it coming round the bend. It was big and bad, taking up 90% of the channel. I slowed to a crawl and moved over to the right as far as I dared. BAM! My keel hit a ledge. I put it in reverse and backed away. I had found myself a pocket of deep water, and I stayed there till the barge squeezed by. I could have touched it with the boat hook. Thankfully, it was a light hit, but I shall be looking at the keel closely come bailout time.
I should start a dredging company. I seem to be pretty adept at scraping the bottom on this trip!
Best to all, Charlie the dredger
Not much to report, another 65 mile day. Doesn't sound like much, but remember, I am going at a brisk walk, or maybe a slow jog.
So here is something noteworthy. Earlier today I transited the infamous Rock Pile, a notoriously narrow and rocky area of the ICW near Myrtle Beach. I called ahead and found that there was a southbound tug and barge coming thru but I was confident I could get thru before it showed up. Sadly, I was almost thru when I encountered it coming round the bend. It was big and bad, taking up 90% of the channel. I slowed to a crawl and moved over to the right as far as I dared. BAM! My keel hit a ledge. I put it in reverse and backed away. I had found myself a pocket of deep water, and I stayed there till the barge squeezed by. I could have touched it with the boat hook. Thankfully, it was a light hit, but I shall be looking at the keel closely come bailout time.
I should start a dredging company. I seem to be pretty adept at scraping the bottom on this trip!
Best to all, Charlie the dredger
Wednesday, April 24, 2019
Skinny water
Good evening everyone,
The first 5 miles between my anchorage and Mcclellanville were done at dead low tide, and it was shallow! I had the depthsounder alarm set at 7 1/2 feet and it emits a high pitched whine when I reach that level. The alarm was sounding probably half the time during those 5 miles. You could see shoals sticking right out into the channel. Fortunately, at that hour there was nobody else on the ICW. And if I had run aground, no big deal, the tide would lift me off in short order.
I am in a different sort of environment here, since leaving Charleston. The water is the color of root beer, a far cry from the Exumas! The trees are different. Less Spanish Moss, and fewer palm trees. Beautiful areas abound, although development continues relentlessly. I am anchored at the north end of the Waccamaw River with a couple of other boats. Looks like one more decent day, then rain on Friday. Was able to sail for a while today, but still mostly motoring. Hope to do more sailing on the big waters of North Carolina.
Cheers, Charlie
The first 5 miles between my anchorage and Mcclellanville were done at dead low tide, and it was shallow! I had the depthsounder alarm set at 7 1/2 feet and it emits a high pitched whine when I reach that level. The alarm was sounding probably half the time during those 5 miles. You could see shoals sticking right out into the channel. Fortunately, at that hour there was nobody else on the ICW. And if I had run aground, no big deal, the tide would lift me off in short order.
I am in a different sort of environment here, since leaving Charleston. The water is the color of root beer, a far cry from the Exumas! The trees are different. Less Spanish Moss, and fewer palm trees. Beautiful areas abound, although development continues relentlessly. I am anchored at the north end of the Waccamaw River with a couple of other boats. Looks like one more decent day, then rain on Friday. Was able to sail for a while today, but still mostly motoring. Hope to do more sailing on the big waters of North Carolina.
Cheers, Charlie
Tuesday, April 23, 2019
Aground at high tide
Hi everyone,
It was a harrowing 10 minutes when I ran aground at almost high tide a mile or so north of the Ben Sawyer bridge outside Charleston. I was in the channel, a bit over to one side, and the alarm went off as I was moving along at 6 knots. The boat hit less than a second after the alarm sounded, indicating a steep bank. I knew I was in trouble. With 5 or 6 feet of tidal range the boat was going to be high and dry if I didn't act fast. I put the rudder hard over and gave it a lot of throttle. The boat pivoted, pointing towards deeper water, but she was stuck. So, in record time I shackled on a 20 pound Danforth and ran it out in the dinghy, dropping it in deeper water. Dashing back to the boat, I led the anchor line back to my big cockpit winch. About this time a powerboat zipped by and gave me a much welcomed wake. The boat bumped to freedom, I hoisted the anchor, and continued on my way. If I were a drinking man I would have poured myself a stiff drink!
Other than that, not much to report. I got fuel at the megadock, 10.2 gallons worth. The guy that pumped it said that the day before he pumped 6000 gallons for a megayacht. Said it took 2 hours to fill it with a high speed pump, and the bill was over 18 grand! That would heat our house for 10-15 years!
Best to all, Charlie
BTW, I am anchored near McClellanville, SC.
It was a harrowing 10 minutes when I ran aground at almost high tide a mile or so north of the Ben Sawyer bridge outside Charleston. I was in the channel, a bit over to one side, and the alarm went off as I was moving along at 6 knots. The boat hit less than a second after the alarm sounded, indicating a steep bank. I knew I was in trouble. With 5 or 6 feet of tidal range the boat was going to be high and dry if I didn't act fast. I put the rudder hard over and gave it a lot of throttle. The boat pivoted, pointing towards deeper water, but she was stuck. So, in record time I shackled on a 20 pound Danforth and ran it out in the dinghy, dropping it in deeper water. Dashing back to the boat, I led the anchor line back to my big cockpit winch. About this time a powerboat zipped by and gave me a much welcomed wake. The boat bumped to freedom, I hoisted the anchor, and continued on my way. If I were a drinking man I would have poured myself a stiff drink!
Other than that, not much to report. I got fuel at the megadock, 10.2 gallons worth. The guy that pumped it said that the day before he pumped 6000 gallons for a megayacht. Said it took 2 hours to fill it with a high speed pump, and the bill was over 18 grand! That would heat our house for 10-15 years!
Best to all, Charlie
BTW, I am anchored near McClellanville, SC.
Monday, April 22, 2019
Swamp creature
Hi everyone,
Before I discuss the last couple of days on the waterway I need to share something really disturbing that I saw earlier today. I was motoring along, enjoying weather that allowed me to utilize a t-shirt, when I saw a flying critter land on the bow pulpit, about 25 feet away. I lashed the helmet and went forward to inspect my visitor. Looking at it closely, I realized that it was not a small bird, but rather something that looked horribly like a horsefly. Now I have seen many horseflies, and in fact, have been bitten by more than a few, but this thing was a monster. You could see the mandibles on this horror show and I expect their action would be akin to a drilling rig. The fly was about the size of a half dollar. I thought about killing it, but my fly swatter is rather wimpy and I didn't want to piss it off. The heavy stainless winch handle might do the job, but I couldn't risk a miss. In the end, I went back to steering and regarding the fly nervously. Eventually, it got bored and left, lumbering off like a Sikorsky Blackhawk. I hope it never returns!
Back in Savannah I had enjoyed a really nice visit from my friend Kim Blodgett from Vermont, and her boyfriend Jim. They were spending the weekend there, looking at houses in preparation for moving there, and I joined them for a walk around the downtown. Great visit. Next morning I got up early and made it to Beaufort, SC, about 60 miles. Had the chance to walk around yet another beautiful old Southern town. In the morning the bridge didn't open till 9 so I had a late start, but still knocked off a few miles, and am anchored maybe 20 miles south of Charleston. Betsy, if you are reading this, I will be stopping at the megadock for fuel around 10:30 or 11. Would love to say hi if you are in town. Will probably continue onward though.
Best to all, Charlie
Before I discuss the last couple of days on the waterway I need to share something really disturbing that I saw earlier today. I was motoring along, enjoying weather that allowed me to utilize a t-shirt, when I saw a flying critter land on the bow pulpit, about 25 feet away. I lashed the helmet and went forward to inspect my visitor. Looking at it closely, I realized that it was not a small bird, but rather something that looked horribly like a horsefly. Now I have seen many horseflies, and in fact, have been bitten by more than a few, but this thing was a monster. You could see the mandibles on this horror show and I expect their action would be akin to a drilling rig. The fly was about the size of a half dollar. I thought about killing it, but my fly swatter is rather wimpy and I didn't want to piss it off. The heavy stainless winch handle might do the job, but I couldn't risk a miss. In the end, I went back to steering and regarding the fly nervously. Eventually, it got bored and left, lumbering off like a Sikorsky Blackhawk. I hope it never returns!
Back in Savannah I had enjoyed a really nice visit from my friend Kim Blodgett from Vermont, and her boyfriend Jim. They were spending the weekend there, looking at houses in preparation for moving there, and I joined them for a walk around the downtown. Great visit. Next morning I got up early and made it to Beaufort, SC, about 60 miles. Had the chance to walk around yet another beautiful old Southern town. In the morning the bridge didn't open till 9 so I had a late start, but still knocked off a few miles, and am anchored maybe 20 miles south of Charleston. Betsy, if you are reading this, I will be stopping at the megadock for fuel around 10:30 or 11. Would love to say hi if you are in town. Will probably continue onward though.
Best to all, Charlie
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)