Deeper in the Swamp

 Hi everyone,

My friend Emily on my buddy boat and I traveled 17 miles further into the swamp yesterday and are tied up at the visitors center in North Carolina. Two other boats are here as well. Super friendly folks. The rain is heavy and every now and then a gust of wind makes it thru the forest fortress to remind us we are on boats. But this is a really safe, fantastic place to be for this storm. And my friend Will Patten was right about the duckweed on the canal. I had to clean the intake strainer a number of times during yesterdays transit. The engine never got hot but you could see a decreased flow out the exhaust. It was a simple matter to shut down the engine, pull the basket from the strainer, empty and clean it, restart and continue on. Since I was towing Emily alongside, she would steer while I did the strainer. Easy peasy! Took about 2 minutes.

Cheers. Charlie

Swamp

 Relief! Not sure if Ian is going to amount to anything, but if it does, I am in a super safe spot, the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. There is a lock at either end of the canal, which raises you about 5 feet and removes the tide from the equation. I went thru that first lock and tied up at a free public bulkhead. A supermarket and other stores are a block or two away. Emily is behind me, but close, and might make the last locking in about 15 minutes time. If not, she'll have to anchor for the night and come thru in the morning.

After leaving Deltaville we had some really awesome sailing, but found out that White Seal is much faster than Teal, Emily's boat. Nothing wrong with Teal, but length generally translates into speed. Also, a heavier boat can punch thru the chop more effectively than a lighter one. And when the wind came around from the southwest, Emily suggested we go up the York River for the night. It had become evident that we would be making a nighttime entrance into Hampton Roads and that was a scary thought. So, we spent the night anchored in Poquoson Creek off the York River. Got up early yesterday morning and ran down the York, and then clawed our way against the tide down the Bay. I got within about a mile and watched my speed drop to near zero, along with the wind. Taking the easy way out, I hit the starter button on the diesel and motored into Hampton. A quick run up the creek and I was able to top off the diesel. Unfortunately, the anchorage nearby was full so I went back out to Old Point Comfort to use the anchorage there. Talking to Emily on the phone, I learned that she was about a mile away and unable to make progress against the ebb. We talked about the possibility of my towing her, but given the conditions we decided not to. Not sure if I mentioned this earlier, but Teal has an electric motor with very limited power and range. So I anchored and was able to decompress a bit. After a couple of hours the ebb lessened, and Emily was able to sail right in and anchor. I felt a bit of a fraud, having caved in earlier and starting the diesel.

And then, today! I described in an earlier post, the madness around the Statue of Liberty in NYC. Norfolk is like that, squared. Only instead of annoying jetskiis, you are contending with aircraft carriers, nuclear submarines, and containerships. Crazy! For about 20 miles! So glad to be where I am now.

Best, Charlie

Hampton

 Hey everyone,

Emily was right and we took 2 days to get here. Her Tripp 29 is a much smaller boat and has a tough time close hauled in a chop. But no problem. Safe in Hampton and will pass thru Norfolk tomorrow. Will report more details when properly rested!

All the best, Charlie

Chap named Ian

 Hi folks ,

We are hoping to sail our two boats to Norfolk although Emily is convinced we can't make it. Only 50 miles but her boat is smaller. And we will be fighting the tide a good bit. A cold front with thunderstorms just passed thru and should set us up for westerly winds. And then we should be able to enter the Dismal Swamp the next day. It looks like weather will go downhill on Friday. Maybe just rain, maybe some wind also.

Cheers, Charlie

Chores

 It wasn't all chores! Emily and I went on a tour of the sail loft where she has done some marketing work. We rode bikes through the rural countryside to get there. The wind had died down to a reasonable 30 knots in the gusts so I was comfortable leaving the boat. Emily is tied up at a dock in front of a really choice house sitting on what is probably the nicest piece of real estate on the bay here. I had the use of a marina bike, having paid a very reasonable facilities fee for a week. I also have use of a courtesy car so we took that to the supermarket. After that I did an oil change on the engine, which is a real pain in the neck. It takes me a couple hours, which is crazy, but I haven't been able to speed it up. A motorized pump would speed it up for sure. Anyway, that is out of the way.

I feel a bit like a duck in a shooting gallery right now as the tropics heat up. Might leave for Hampton on Monday. We'll keep assessing the situation. This would actually be a very good place to weather a serious storm, in the marina actually. It is tucked in off this small bay and they have space way in the back. There are some other potential places nearby.

Cool weather tonight, down to around 48. It had been downright hot up till now.

Best, Charlie

Deltaville

 Yeah, I know. Supposed to be keeping a blog. It appears the Reedville post didn't go thru, so I just posted it now. But that is ancient history. I just had my third night here in Deltaville and I also had a night on Tangier Island.

A bit about Tangier. What a cool place. It's a small island in the middle of the Bay, and it supports a community of about 450 souls. Crab fishing is the main industry, along with a tiny bit of tourism. Tangier is a slice of America that no longer exists. It was really special going there. Leaving Reedville I had a nice breeze, and I could just see the top of the water tower on Tangier. The breeze died a bit and I slowly watched the island rise out of the sea. It seemed incredibly fragile and exposed. I reached the entrance, dropped the sails, and motored slowly in at dead low tide. The channel cuts all the way thru the island and makes a sort of crab boat thorofare. On one side, a line of fish shacks and docks, made for a quintessential working waterfront. The other side was similar, but snuggled right up against the streets of the town. The streets were very narrow, and mainly used by golf carts and pedestrians.

I had tied up at Parks Marina, and I was the only pleasure boat in town, although 3 other sailboats did come in late. I managed to find one of the owners, who was installing a new engine in a crabber, and paid him the docking fee of $35. Anchoring is not an option in the harbor. I spent the afternoon walking around, going to the museum, and eating crab cakes. Needless to say, the crab cakes were fabulous.

It was painful to leave early the next morning but the forecast was a bit worrisome, and I didn't want to get stuck in the marina for days while going thru dockage fees. So I continued on to Deltaville where I met up with my friend Emily Greenberg. I first attempted Jackson Creek, where I went aground right in the entrance. I had been going very slowly, so just backed off, said screw it, and motored around to Fishing Bay. Emily has her boat at a dock nearby and is wrapping up some work before heading to Oriental, NC. We are going to 'buddy' boat down to Elizabeth City thru the Dismal Swamp. Emily does a lot of freelance writing, including a number of recent articles in SAIL magazine.

There is a gale warning in effect for tonight and tomorrow, so I will be hunkered down. The high winds will be from the north and this is a great spot.

Best to all, Charlie

Reedville

 Anchored near the spot where Tom Hickley and I rode out tropical storm Michael 4 years ago. Much more peaceful today. Very little wind on the Bay today and I ended up motoring all the way. Left Solomons where I had spent a couple of nights following a really great sail over from Oxford on the Eastern Shore. Satisfying in that I sailed off the anchor, wing and wing down the Tred Avon, a close reach on part of the Choptank, then a long run downwind. Finished up with another reach into Solomons, where I finally doused the sails and motored into the harbor.

Yesterday I went to the Calvert Marine Museum, which I enjoyed immensely. Especially the small craft exhibit. I have decided I really need a Hooper's Island draketail workboat. Not sure what I would do with it in Vermont, but it would look cool!

I was tempted to sleep in this morning, but the next couple of days would have kept me in Solomons or had me slogging to windward so I decided to set out. There ended up being very little wind, in an area where I often get slammed. And now I am in Virginia, just like that. I am thinking about staying here tomorrow, then possibly going across to Tangier on Monday.

Cheers, Charlie

Oxford

 Yesterday resulted in more great sailing! I motored out of Weems Creek over to the fuel dock in Annapolis, where the rather snarky manager was not happy with my purchase of 6 and a half gallons of diesel. That figure represented my useage from Atlantic Highlands and resulted from motoring at various points when the wind fizzled out, as well as thru the C&D canal, where sailing is prohibited. At any rate, this worthy informed me that there would be a twenty dollar charge to fill my 2 five gallon water jugs. I declined the opportunity and shoved off. I motored past the mooring field and hoisted sail in a nice northwesterly breeze. Headed down the Bay in the company of several Navy vessels and a slew of commercial traffic. A few hours later I headed up the Choptank River and eventually to the Tred Avon. I thought about entering the tight harbor of Oxford under sail, as the wind served well  but decided against it. I am older, and ostensibly wiser, right? Dropped anchor in a really lovely town. Tons of boats, and today I went poking around in the Cutts and Case Shipyard. This yard is just fantastic, especially for wooden boat afficianados. Walking around town was great too. This is part of Talbot County and it's most famous inhabitant was none other than Frederick Douglass, whose autobiography I happen to be reading. So there is a lot of history here, much of it very painful. And yet, great natural beauty and richly prolific with life.

I will likely head back across the Bay tomorrow for Solomon's Island. Weather looks good.

Best regards. Charlie

More rain....

 Today has actually been pretty decent, but the humidity is about 200%. Sweat just dripping off with the slightest exertion. It really is an order of magnitude worse than Vermont. But being completely free of minor aches and pains makes it acceptable.

This morning I walked into town and took in the veritable smorgasbord of historic architecture that constitutes old Annapolis. Love it! Also went into the Naval Academy and did a tour of the visitors center. One thing I noticed walking around the waterfront was that there was a lot of empty dockspace and vacant moorings. I guess I'm just early to the party. Ok with me. Translates into plenty of anchoring room.

I just finished doing some water management chores. Dealing with drinking water is a bit of a pain, but critical. I have about 25 plastic containers holding a couple quarts each and available for use in the galley. There's 20 gallons available in a stainless steel tank, but it often has little chunks floating around in it, which results in howls of outrage from the crew. So that is used for washing, rinsing, tooth brushing, etc. Incidentally, I drink it with no ill effect. The I have 3 five gallon containers whic I store in the bilge. So, I used those to top off the small containers, and tomorrow, when I stop to get fuel, I will fill those with nice fresh water. Try not to let anything sit for too long

If weather looks good I will probably head out in the morning.

Best to all, Charlie

Annapolis

 Hey everyone!

Had a really nice sail down from Georgetown, running mostly wing and wing. Clear and sunny with the rain in the rear view mirror. One of the great things about Annapolis is just how many cool sailboats there are. Quite a few were out on the Bay as I came sailing under the bridge. 

Been here a couple of nights and will likely hang around longer. Did some varnishing today and got the holding tank pumped out. I the replaced the vent hose, which had gotten permeated with foul odors. Not good. I tried to get an inline filter for that application but was unsuccessful after a 4 mile walk to West Marine. Chandleries these days are a joke. What they stock are things like clothing, chrome plated drink holders, and shot glasses with cute little anchors on them.

Anyways, I won't go into the details of working on the sanitation system, but suffice to say it has been unpleasant and frustrating.

I was hoping to get a visit from my niece and her family, but alas, they have come down with Covid. No symptoms and they are young.

Best  Charlie

Rain day

 Wow. It really rains in these parts. Never made it off the boat today. It did stop around 4, but rather than row a considerable distance I elected to do some buffing and waxing. Gotta protect the gelcoat and keep her looking good. Did the cabin trunk. Bailed the dinghy which was literally on the verge of sinking. And, something dreadful happened today, at which I am at a loss to explain. White Seal developed a leak into the cabin, a situation which is totally unacceptable. I actually saw the drip, and was suitably horrified. It is in way of the companionway hatch frame, which I had removed and rebedded a mere 2 years ago. There is, happily, a silver lining. The drip is directly over the galley sink. However, if one is doing the dishes during a downpour, they should expect one drop per minute on their head. Truth be told, there are a couple of other very small leaks when there is a deluge. When things dry out I will address them. 

Supposed to be a bit drier tomorrow. Hope to get ashore then.

Cheers, Charlie

Sassafras River

 Hi everyone!

I see I haven't posted for several days. It's due to a combination of being busy sailing and not having internet. At the moment I am anchored i Georgetown, Maryland. It's a hot day with very little wind. After spending a night in Cape May, I decided to grab the opportunity to travel up Delaware Bay. Those who have passed this way know it can be an ugly body of water. Strong tidal currents, heavy shipping traffic, and only a couple of places to seek refuge, make for a tough 56 miles. The tide was going to be perfect  and the wind would make for a beam reach, so I could't resist. And I was very reluctant to hang out on the Jersey coast with peak hurricane season here.

I used the engine for about an hour, which got me through Cape May, through the short canal, and out into the bay a bit. I went with a full main and the big genoa. It was blowing up to about 18 or 20 and made for a great ride. There were a couple of sailboats that were too big to fit under the bridges on the canal and I met up with them. We stayed more or less together, with White Seal pulling ahead of the smaller one, a Beneteau of around 50 feet in length. That was satisfying, but the the wind died and they unrolled their genoa all the way, pulling ahead. Eventually, we all resorted to our engines and they left me behind.

Eventually, around 3:00, I entered the C&D canal, which can be a bit nerve wracking. It accomodates large ships, and believe me, caution is the order of the day. But I did not encounter any, and made it without incident to Chesapeake City, where I anchored.

This swret small town is home to one of Mary's childhood friends, Clara Childers, now married to Matt Brinkerhoff. They had been forewarned, and so, the next morning I enjoyed breakfast at their house. I decided to stay anchored where I was for the day, and sleep and read. Hey, I'm retired. Clara and Matt came to visit the boat, late in the afternoon. It was great to see them.

The next morning I eased carefully out into the canal and motored for a couple hours to Turkey Point, where the Bay becomes wide enough to sail. The wind was light, and on the nose, so I started beating to windward. Picking my way around crab pots, I entered the Sassafras and sailed to the entrance of Turner Creek. It was a very narrow but adequate channel and once inside offered complete protection. There was one other cruising boat. I spent the night there and took a couple trips ashore to ckeck out the small but lovely county park. I am in the south now. Different trees, architecture, boats, people, etc. A confused Marylander was flying the Confederate flag on his crab boat. Maybe his ancestors had wanted Maryland to secede. I passed a Grade A plantation a ways back and some lesser examples here on the Sassafras. More to come. Crummy weather coming and I am looking forward to getting all the salt rinse off. White Seal is covered with it. Hoping to get ashore and score some fresh food. Last of the oranges had gone bad. Must. Avoid. Scurvy.

Best to all, Charlie

PS I was hoping to get some photos or video on here, but it is simply beyond my capabilities. Very frustrating! I can navigate a sailboat for tens of thousands of miles but getting a photo online is just not possible! Johannah showed me, but obviously the lesson didn't stick.

Jersey Shore sleighride

 Well, that was fun! I slept during the heat of the day today after the excitement of charging down the coast yesterday. The passage of a cold front late Tuesday brought a favorable west breeze off the land and Ron and I took advantage of it. We were underway at 0615 and motorsailed for an hour to get well clear of Sandy Hook. There were several other sailboats and we smoked them all except for a big beautiful Hinckley. We were keeping up with them till there was a lull in the wind and they pulled ahead. The forecast had been for 10-15  with gusts to 25 but in reality it was 15 to 25 and eventually going up to 30. A single reef was used at the start along with the working jib. At the middle of the afternoon we were really punishing the boat and I doused the jib and replaced it with the storm jib. The seas at that point were quite confused and as Ron will attest we were getting soused with large dollops of seawater. We also had a whale that breached nearby. The point of sail had turned from a beam reach to closehauled as the coastline trended southwesterly. I was wearing my tether as I moved about the decks. Much to my surprise we passed Atlantic City before nightfall. After sunset the wind dropped off and we motorsailed the rest of the way to Cape May, arriving there at about 0100. We elected to spend the night just jogging slowly back and forth with just the single reefed mainsail and a line tied loosely to the tiller, a combo that has worked well in the past. And while we were motorsailing we used the autopilot which worked flawlessly. But we hand steered during the 70 or so miles when it was really cranking. Don't yet trust the autopilot to handle that. It was really great to have Ron Rost along. He made what would have been a grueling trip into a real treat. And his music! He brought his mountain dulcimer and recorder along. What a treat! Thanks Ron! I dropped him at the dock this morning so he could make his way home.

Best to all  Charlie