Exumas!

 Hi everyone!

Dramatic change in the weather and we are anchored for our third night in the Exumas. We got Britt off to the airport on Thursday morning and we were all very sad to see her go. She spent a month and a half on board with me and was just great! Can't recommend her highly enough should she end up crewing on another boat.

We did a few errands ashore and were back on the boat around 1PM. Mary asked, "why don't we head out now for the Exumas.?" I considered it for a nanosecond and said sure. We motored out to Porgee Rock since the wind was on the nose and set sail for a beat to windward. After an hour or so it was evident we would be unable to negotiate the reefs on the Yellow Banks so we fired up the engine. We managed to get through the narrowest section of coral heads just before dark. Barely visible in the fading light but you could see them from up on the mast. The wind was light out of the SE and we continued motoring for another couple of hours, with lights visible in the distance. As we got closer the wind picked up and we hoisted the main, killing the engine. I was reluctant to hoist the job, having not set up jacklines and safety harnesses so we beat to windward with just the main, anchoring under sail around 11. We were in the lee of Allan's Cay. The area looked like a convention of megayachts, with at least a dozen in the general area. Highborn Cay seems to be their hangout. Fortunately for us lowbornes they are too big to get into the good anchorages and so we motored in and anchored in the absolute best spot right off the iguana beach.

Malachi was enchanted with everything and I had forgotten how spectacularly clear the water is. We had a really great day and a peaceful night at anchor. Today we did some snorkeling and some boat chores before heading out the short distance to Highborne. We hauled up the sail, pulled the anchor, and sailed out, something that is seldom done these days though it was a piece of cake. We ran out on to the Banks a ways, then hardened up and beat up to Highborne. Anchored under sail but decided there was too much surge and current so I ran the engine for a short bit and reanchored further north. It's New Years Eve and we will likely go into the beach and hang out with other cruisers in a bit.

Happy New Year everyone!

Charlie

Blustery weather

 Hi all,

Quick post with weak internet. Mary and Malachi still haven't seen the sun. We are anchored in the lee of Athol Island, rolling back and forth as a light rain continues. Did have some nice snorkeling yesterday but it is just too rough and cold to go in today. Does not resemble the Bahamas at present. I find it quite pleasant but a couple of my guests are feeling rather nauseous and are occupying their bunks at the moment. We will pull anchor shortly and head into the harbor for the night. Weather looks to improve by Friday.

All the best, Charlie

Junkanoo!

 Hi everyone!

I never quite know how to describe Junkanoo. It happens twice a year, on Boxing Day and New Years. This year it was postponed a day due to rain and wind. We had gone downtown on Bay Street at 2 AM only to find out about the postponement. We were quite chagrined but happy to find out that the alternate schedule started things at 6 PM. It meant we could see a significant portion and still get a decent night's sleep.

So, in a nutshell, it's a parade. Sounds pretty simple. But it has nothing in common with, say, the Memorial Day parade back home. Of course there is music, and this music is an auditory and visceral tour de force. It is combined with extravagant floats and costumes, waving to and fro in the tropical breeze. There are various groups competing for bragging rights and cash prizes. The bigger groups will be proceeded by costumed dancers and several exquisitely decorated floats on wheels. They are followed by an avalanche of sound, emanating from drums, whistles, cow bells, brass instruments, and various other sound producing devices of which I have no familiarity. Meanwhile, you are standing on the street, in a mob of happy people, about one foot away from everything. Even I was swaying to the beat. Best live music ever. And totally free. 

We ran out of steam around 1 AM and walked back to the boat. I have been delighted to have Mary and Malachi aboard. We went a short distance out of town and anchored near an island for some great snorkeling. We will bring Britt back to town for a departure on Thursday.  Things are going great!

All the best, Charlie

Nassau!

Hi folks!

The forecast changed and so we bid farewell to Andros. Had a beautiful sail over to Nassau. Interestingly enough there was a very large swell running on Tongue of the Ocean, especially after leaving the bluff. Probably a 10 or 15 foot swell. Just big hills of water, moving relentlessly towards the west. We had a nice south wind giving us a beam reach. Left at a quarter to eight and dropped anchor around two. Saw lots of flying fish amidst the whitecaps. Lovely sail! Last big one for Britt. She flys out on the 29th and will be sorely missed!

Cheers, Charlie

Weather

 Hi everyone,

We spent last night in the anchorage, with the hope of leaving tomorrow morning, but the weather forecast has changed for the worse. North winds associated with a cold front will make the anchorage untenable, so we just moved back into the inner harbor. Our friend Allen will come over for dinner and cards in a bit. Rainy, windy, and a bit cooler. Minimal sun today.

Best, Charlie

More from Andros

 Good morning all!

The fishing boat survived the night and the owners showed up this morning with a freshly charged battery. But the other boat is well and truly sink. It is a very scruffy looking vessel but boasts a new, or at least a just installed engine. It may be the type of engine that has been "rebuilt" with a can of spray paint, but at least the owner had hoped that they would go out fishing.

We made friends with Allen Kemp, the captain of another fishing boat, and he joined us for dinner, bringing conch, grouper, and lionfish, and lobster. He supervised the prep, and the results were beyond excellent. His boat, with 5 people aboard, had been out for 2 weeks. Afterwards, we played cards till near midnight. A great evening. We got a tour of his boat, which is actually owned by someone else who is part of the crew. They will go out again after the holidays and we may see them as they plan to fish the northern Exumas. They sold their catch for around 50k. Allen is about the age of Britt and Gail so you can understand the interest. Gail left early this morning for home in Oregon and we hated to see her leave!

Best to all, Charlie

Wild times in Andros

 Hi folks!

The long slog across the banks involved a few hours at anchor after my sidelight bulb burned out. Thought I had a spare but couldn't find it and was reluctant to run without it. Anchored near the Northwest Channel. In the morning we eased out onto Tongue of the Ocean and it was delightfully calm with very little chop. There had been talk about a swell developing as a result of a storm far out in the Atlantic and I was delighted to see it hadn't happened. We were motorsailing due to the light wind. The Joulter Cays were visible and after a couple hours we were within sight of Morgan's Bluff. Then the swell began, almost as if a switch had been turned on. There was what appeared to be an unbroken line of surf along the barrier reef, and the breaking waves were big. My anxiety level ratcheted up considerably as I considered the possibility that the gap in the reef might be impassable.

We approached the entrance, remaining in deep water, and reconnoitered. The seas were breaking heavily on either side but we didn't see any breaking right in the channel, so I went for it. Strictly white knuckle! The breakers were in the 10 - 15 foot range and had the potential to destroy the boat. We made it and came shooting around the jetty, heaving a sigh of relief. We later met a 32 year resident and former sailor who said it was about the biggest swell she could remember. And it lasted for days.

Now, I am doing my best to keep a local fishing boat from sinking. Long story that I may try to tell later. And another one did sink about 4 nights ago. Right aft of us at the dock. Battery went dead, bilge pump stopped, and down she went. Not sure if this latest one will make it. Will let you all know.

Cheers, Charlie

Morgans Bluff, Andros

 Hi everyone!

Hard to believe we are really here in the Bahamas! We are becoming part of the scene hear on Andros.

It's 11:20 and the mailboat just 

Phone, internet, wifi- nothing works. May have better luck in Nassau. Much better 38 years ago when sending postcards!

Best, Charlie

 came in. I was awakened and decided to take it all in. A couple dozen cars and pickups were waiting on the wharf. With Christmas in the offing there are undoubtedly many gifts coming in. I have come over to the bar to get wifi for this little missive. Pretty quiet in here for a Friday night.

A recap is in order. Before leaving Bimini we toured the home of Ashley Saunders, which is a testimony as to what one person can accomplish. He has built, over a period of 29 years, singleh

Bimini!

 Hi everyone! We had a very nice crossing yesterday! Left No Name Harbor a bit before 6 AM and dropped anchor at 3:30 PM in Nixon's Harbor, South Bimini. It was right at low tide and I was reluctant to go in the harbor entrance then. Ask my daughter Mary why!

After a very peaceful evening we pulled anchor and headed into the harbor. I stopped near the entrance and we watched several boats go in and out. It was high tide. I had read so much conflicting information I didn't know what to believe but the sun was high enough to read the water so we proceeded. The least water was 12 feet. Far better than last time in here. There were 2 channel markers.

But the real stresser was customs and immigration. If Britt hadn't been there I would be on my way back across the Stream. They are no longer doing paper. Everything has to be done online and you can't do it on a cellphone.  Britt spent an hour on a borrowed commputer at another marina, only to lose everything over some undefined error. Eventually the customs person had to come to the marina to wrap it all up. Then it was off to immigrations (another building down the road) for another round of punishment and humiliation. We weren't the only people dealing with this. Now that I have seen the entire process I think the best bet might be to pay someone to make it all happen.

All that hassle notwithstanding it is reall great to be here. We are one of about 4 boats currently at the Bluewater Resort, which is a really nice marina. Very affordable compared to most other marinas. I really like Bimini. A bit gritty perhaps, but colorful and friendly. Heck, Hemingway loved the place, right?

Saturday night, should be a hopping place! Music already blaring from the bars.

Cheers, Charlie

No Name Harbor

 Hi folks,

We have been hanging out here for several days. We had sailed from Palm Beach to here direct, avoiding the insanity of the South Florida ICW. Took us about 16 hours. Nice moon, wind light but pretty steady. Sailed most of the way, coming into Biscayne Bay around 10 PM. Saw about 10 cruise ships coming out of Lauderdale and Miami. Plus a couple more in Palm Beach. I had kind of written that industry off what with Covid but it appears to have survived.

We have done some more provisioning and some boat chores. Tomorrow and Saturday look promising for a crossing. Probably end up motorsailing in what should be light wind. Likely we will stop in Bimini for a couple nights.

Best, Charlie

Palm Beach

 Hi folks,

We have arrived! Here we are in the land of the esteemed boobus americanus! It really has to be seen to be believed. And the best way is by boat. We just motored the 4 miles from the anchorage on Lake Worth, where we spent 2 nights, to Palm Beach proper where we anchored for the night. It being a Saturday afternoon the ICW was jammed with watercraft, all of which were proceeding at flank speed with absolutely no regard for their fellow mariners. The wakes were epic and the ICW took on the aspect of the North Atlantic in winter. The wakes continue, well after dark, and numerous boats are decked out with various tacky Christmas decorations. I had decided to forgo our previous anchorage in order to be closer to the inlet. Forecast looks good and we hope to go outside tomorrow, at least to Ft. Lauderdale. The idea of negotiating all of the Sunday boat traffic, plus 22 opening bridges is just too much.

We did find a real gem earlier today. There is a big section of undeveloped beach immediately north of Palm Beach that was conserved as a park many years back by John and Catherine MacArthur. Beautiful! Gives an idea of what Florida looked like before it was carpet bombed with condos.

Next challenge will be navigating the digital fortress of Bahamian Customs. They have switched to doing it online before entering the country and I am totally unable to figure it out. A tech literate friend describes the site as "terrible". This is really disappointing. It is as if they are trying to discourage cruisers from coming and not pumping thousands of dollars into their economy. Our friend Jane on Aida will help us out via phone over the next couple of days. This is going to be a real challenge. At least we don't have pets or guns or other things that present additional obstacles.

Best to all!

Charlie