Hi everyone,
Farm festival today a short distance from our boat. There is music, vendors, and exhibits, with the harbour as a backdrop. Also good conversation to be had with various folks around the dock. It was a bit scary earlier when the 200' Lady Rosalind came in with a load of festival goers from Nassau. As she turned around in the tiny harbour and backed up to the wharf it looked like she was going to use the White Seal as a Fender, coming within about 5 feet. But it was all good.
Everyone knows I am not much of a barhopper, but we did find the perfect bar the other afternoon when we had the car. Driving thru Nicholls Town we saw a group of very old traditional buildings right by the beach. As we crawled by we got a glimpse of what looked like a bar through the heavy wood door that stood ajar to let the wind thru. We had to stop. Entering the stone building was like stepping into a time warp. Keith, the owner, welcomed us in. He said he was the 5th generation to run the place and he believes it to be about 200 years old. His friend Albert showed up and gave us a tour around the place. Very cool pace. Mary will post some pics.
Best to all, Charlie
Saturday, March 30, 2019
Friday, March 29, 2019
More Andros
Hi all,
We are really liking this island! Rented a car yesterday and explored. Having problems with phone, will try and post more later.
We are really liking this island! Rented a car yesterday and explored. Having problems with phone, will try and post more later.
Charlie
Wednesday, March 27, 2019
Photos from Morgan’s Bluff
Gorgeous view of the ocean from Morgan’s Bluff. This passes for a very tall cliff in the Bahamas, where most everything is quite flat.
The shipwrecked tugboat washed ashore at Morgan’s Bluff
Morgan’s Cave
Shipwreck, with pirate for scale
Tuesday, March 26, 2019
Andros
Hi everyone,
First time on Andros and so far we really like it! Not many cruisers come here, mainly because anchorages are few and marginal. We are in Morgan's Bluff, Henry Morgan's old pirate hangout. We were anchored last night in the outer harbour but moved into the inner harbour today with the threat of another cold front. We were able to score a dock face, albeit one of the sorriest docks I have ever tied to in a half century of boating. However, the fee is only 6 bucks a night and we are smack dab in the centre of activity.
This island is big, over 100 miles long and 40 wide. Only 8000 people live here. We have met a handful of locals already. We may try to rent a car on Thursday to see more of the island. Today we went to Morgan's cave where he supossedly kept his loot. We were also intrigued by a tugboat driven ashore in the harbour. It had beautiful lines and I was rather smitten by it as was Mary. I googled it and found it was built in 1908. Very sad to see it now.
We will try and stay thru Saturday for a farm festival. There is a possibility that we may head back to the States soon with the next good weather window.
Best to all, Charlie
First time on Andros and so far we really like it! Not many cruisers come here, mainly because anchorages are few and marginal. We are in Morgan's Bluff, Henry Morgan's old pirate hangout. We were anchored last night in the outer harbour but moved into the inner harbour today with the threat of another cold front. We were able to score a dock face, albeit one of the sorriest docks I have ever tied to in a half century of boating. However, the fee is only 6 bucks a night and we are smack dab in the centre of activity.
This island is big, over 100 miles long and 40 wide. Only 8000 people live here. We have met a handful of locals already. We may try to rent a car on Thursday to see more of the island. Today we went to Morgan's cave where he supossedly kept his loot. We were also intrigued by a tugboat driven ashore in the harbour. It had beautiful lines and I was rather smitten by it as was Mary. I googled it and found it was built in 1908. Very sad to see it now.
We will try and stay thru Saturday for a farm festival. There is a possibility that we may head back to the States soon with the next good weather window.
Best to all, Charlie
Saturday, March 23, 2019
Nassau-again
Hi everyone,
Mary and I motorsailed down to Nassau today. I am kind of embarrassed but we were running dead downwind and the wind was only around 10mph. Our speed under sail alone was only around 3mph and I really needed over 5 in order to get there at a reasonable hour. I am no longer into waiting all night to enter Nassau harbour. And I really don't like entering any harbours at night.
Anyways, here we are, back in the rat race that is Nassau. This place really is a circus. Huge amount of boat traffic in the harbour. Mail boats, fishing boats, megayachts, jet skis, you name it. Going in all directions, and at flank speed. No regard given to the effect of a wake. Really quite remarkable.
We are anchored in my usual spot in the harbour with plenty of room. We will pick up a few supplies tomorrow and then hopefully go to Andros on Monday. Given the forecast that may be a motoring day also. Later in the week we get way too much wind. Our goal will be to get a secure spot at Morgan's Bluff in Andros. There will be the first Farmers Festival there next weekend and we would love to be there. A friend of mine from Vermont has some involvement there and it would be great to run into him.
Mary and I motorsailed down to Nassau today. I am kind of embarrassed but we were running dead downwind and the wind was only around 10mph. Our speed under sail alone was only around 3mph and I really needed over 5 in order to get there at a reasonable hour. I am no longer into waiting all night to enter Nassau harbour. And I really don't like entering any harbours at night.
Anyways, here we are, back in the rat race that is Nassau. This place really is a circus. Huge amount of boat traffic in the harbour. Mail boats, fishing boats, megayachts, jet skis, you name it. Going in all directions, and at flank speed. No regard given to the effect of a wake. Really quite remarkable.
We are anchored in my usual spot in the harbour with plenty of room. We will pick up a few supplies tomorrow and then hopefully go to Andros on Monday. Given the forecast that may be a motoring day also. Later in the week we get way too much wind. Our goal will be to get a secure spot at Morgan's Bluff in Andros. There will be the first Farmers Festival there next weekend and we would love to be there. A friend of mine from Vermont has some involvement there and it would be great to run into him.
All the best, Charlie
Wednesday, March 20, 2019
Photos
The first several photos are from Harbour Island, where we enjoyed a lovely day of exploration. The last photos were taken yesterday, when a squall passed through. We also said farewell to Uncle Mike yesterday, and thoroughly enjoyed having him along for a wonderful adventure!
Ouch!
Hi everyone,
It is amazing how time flies. This will be our 5th night at the delightful community of Spanish Wells. There is, however, one small blemish on what would otherwise be perfection. That blemish would be the flocks of flying teeth that circle the boat around dusk and attack relentlessly all night long. These voracious little blood sucking creatures are small enough to fly through the mosquito netting without slowing down. Industrial strength DEET is something that only motivates them more. They live in the mangroves about 75 feet away, and their only goal in life is to sink their fangs into the tasty flesh of Mary and Charlie Langworthy. They have been quite successful. Especially Mary. She is a mass of welts. The problem has been a lack of wind. A severe cold front went through last afternoon and while the winds were blowing 50, we were bug free. Sadly, when I woke up at 4 AM, the wind had died and the little cretins were gnawing away at my face and ears. I set the netting back up, unleashed a cloud of DEET, and crawled back into the bunk, being careful to cover every inch f my body. Sadly, some of them joined me under the covers and there was not much I could do to get rid of my new bedfellows. Ah, the joys of cruising!
Sleep tight! Don't let the bedbugs bite!
Best to all, Charlie
It is amazing how time flies. This will be our 5th night at the delightful community of Spanish Wells. There is, however, one small blemish on what would otherwise be perfection. That blemish would be the flocks of flying teeth that circle the boat around dusk and attack relentlessly all night long. These voracious little blood sucking creatures are small enough to fly through the mosquito netting without slowing down. Industrial strength DEET is something that only motivates them more. They live in the mangroves about 75 feet away, and their only goal in life is to sink their fangs into the tasty flesh of Mary and Charlie Langworthy. They have been quite successful. Especially Mary. She is a mass of welts. The problem has been a lack of wind. A severe cold front went through last afternoon and while the winds were blowing 50, we were bug free. Sadly, when I woke up at 4 AM, the wind had died and the little cretins were gnawing away at my face and ears. I set the netting back up, unleashed a cloud of DEET, and crawled back into the bunk, being careful to cover every inch f my body. Sadly, some of them joined me under the covers and there was not much I could do to get rid of my new bedfellows. Ah, the joys of cruising!
Sleep tight! Don't let the bedbugs bite!
Best to all, Charlie
Sunday, March 17, 2019
Wow, Harbour Island
Hi everyone,
We have heard about Harbour Island for years but had never actually been there. The idea of taking White Seal through coral saturated waters while paying a pilot a large sum of money to guide us was not appealing. So we made a day of it, taking a ferry to Norrh Eleuthera, hopping a taxi for about a 20 minute ride, then taking a second ferry out to the island. I would say that Harbour Island could be called the Nantucket of the Bahamas. It is impossibly quaint, very lush, beautiful, and extremely high end. There are the most lovely homes there, many of which are quite humble, and quite a few that are likely worth millions, and yet manage to still be charming. I'd guess the population at maybe 75 percent black. Talked with a number of the locals and it seems as if they really like it there. It was Sunday and there had just been a funeral the day before for a much loved church organist so most businesses were closed.
This island was extremely lush, with a lot of attention being paid in the maintenance of plants and gardens. The beach was very nice, with a definite pink tinge to the sand. It was rather crowded though, compared to other beaches that have spoiled us beyond hope.
The houses couldn't be cuter. Wood shutters for just about every window. Very often wood shingles on the roof. Dormers on many houses. Some of the houses appear to be quite old. We did manage to get some excellent food.
Mike had lost his waterproof camera on the beach and after a search, wrote it off as lost. But he and Mary ran into the folks on the mooring next to us, and told them about it. Amazingly enough they found it and gave it back to us when we had all returned back to the boat.
What a great day! We all love Harbour Island!
Best to all, Charlieu
We have heard about Harbour Island for years but had never actually been there. The idea of taking White Seal through coral saturated waters while paying a pilot a large sum of money to guide us was not appealing. So we made a day of it, taking a ferry to Norrh Eleuthera, hopping a taxi for about a 20 minute ride, then taking a second ferry out to the island. I would say that Harbour Island could be called the Nantucket of the Bahamas. It is impossibly quaint, very lush, beautiful, and extremely high end. There are the most lovely homes there, many of which are quite humble, and quite a few that are likely worth millions, and yet manage to still be charming. I'd guess the population at maybe 75 percent black. Talked with a number of the locals and it seems as if they really like it there. It was Sunday and there had just been a funeral the day before for a much loved church organist so most businesses were closed.
This island was extremely lush, with a lot of attention being paid in the maintenance of plants and gardens. The beach was very nice, with a definite pink tinge to the sand. It was rather crowded though, compared to other beaches that have spoiled us beyond hope.
The houses couldn't be cuter. Wood shutters for just about every window. Very often wood shingles on the roof. Dormers on many houses. Some of the houses appear to be quite old. We did manage to get some excellent food.
Mike had lost his waterproof camera on the beach and after a search, wrote it off as lost. But he and Mary ran into the folks on the mooring next to us, and told them about it. Amazingly enough they found it and gave it back to us when we had all returned back to the boat.
What a great day! We all love Harbour Island!
Best to all, Charlieu
Saturday, March 16, 2019
Spanish Wells
Hi everyone,
We are currently enjoying Spanish Wells, which is a small island just off the NW coast of Eleuthera. We had spent a couple of nights at Hatchet Bay, and then sailed up to Current Cut on Friday. This is a potentially dangerous cut that everybody seems to have horror stories about, but we had no problems. After transiting the cut we anchored off the town and rowed in. A really charming place. Very lush, quiet, and with delightful little houses. We only spent a couple of hours there, but it will not be soon forgotten. We then sailed up to Royal Island, where we anchored for the night and visited with Don and D of Southern Cross.
This morning we headed over to Spanish Wells and were able to pick up a mooring. This town is really cool and I will post more about it because we will be here for several days until Uncle Mike says farewell. He will fly out of Birth Eleuthera on Tuesday. A bad cold front goes thru Tuesday Eve.
Will post again soon, Charlie
We are currently enjoying Spanish Wells, which is a small island just off the NW coast of Eleuthera. We had spent a couple of nights at Hatchet Bay, and then sailed up to Current Cut on Friday. This is a potentially dangerous cut that everybody seems to have horror stories about, but we had no problems. After transiting the cut we anchored off the town and rowed in. A really charming place. Very lush, quiet, and with delightful little houses. We only spent a couple of hours there, but it will not be soon forgotten. We then sailed up to Royal Island, where we anchored for the night and visited with Don and D of Southern Cross.
This morning we headed over to Spanish Wells and were able to pick up a mooring. This town is really cool and I will post more about it because we will be here for several days until Uncle Mike says farewell. He will fly out of Birth Eleuthera on Tuesday. A bad cold front goes thru Tuesday Eve.
Will post again soon, Charlie
Photos
Beach on Spanish Wells
Laundry line in Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera
In front of the town library in the town of Current, Eleuthera
No shortage of cats on this island!
Uncle Mike enjoying the beach near Current Cut
Abandoned dock by Current Cut
Ruins at Royal Island
Another beautiful beach on Eleuthera opposite Alabaster Bay
Wednesday, March 13, 2019
Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera
Hi everyone,
Another awesome day! Wind picked up last night and was blowing 25 knots today. This morning we rowed ashore and had a great hike over to the ocean beach. Very rough over there. After returning we pulled up anchor and headed north on the Banks. Given the buildup of waves we decided to put into Hatchet Bay in order to ensure a smooth anchorage. Although many cruisers are rather dismissive of the township we found it to be a charming place. Rowing in to a shoreside bar we were entertained by Emmet who regaled us with some of his original and good music. He is a very good salesman for Eleuthera.
Yesterday Uncle Mike initiated fishing activities by purchasing some line and lures. After setting everything up he cast out the lure as we were moving along at a good clip shortly after leaving Governor's Harbour. In less than a minute he had a hard strike and within 15 seconds all the line, lure, and swivel was gone. Back to square one. This is why I get discouraged from fishing. I think I need to fish with a wire cable and a grappling hook. But Mike was undeterred and had it set up again in short order. No fish yet but we are hopeful!
Mary may be able to post photos.
All the best, Charlie
Another awesome day! Wind picked up last night and was blowing 25 knots today. This morning we rowed ashore and had a great hike over to the ocean beach. Very rough over there. After returning we pulled up anchor and headed north on the Banks. Given the buildup of waves we decided to put into Hatchet Bay in order to ensure a smooth anchorage. Although many cruisers are rather dismissive of the township we found it to be a charming place. Rowing in to a shoreside bar we were entertained by Emmet who regaled us with some of his original and good music. He is a very good salesman for Eleuthera.
Yesterday Uncle Mike initiated fishing activities by purchasing some line and lures. After setting everything up he cast out the lure as we were moving along at a good clip shortly after leaving Governor's Harbour. In less than a minute he had a hard strike and within 15 seconds all the line, lure, and swivel was gone. Back to square one. This is why I get discouraged from fishing. I think I need to fish with a wire cable and a grappling hook. But Mike was undeterred and had it set up again in short order. No fish yet but we are hopeful!
Mary may be able to post photos.
All the best, Charlie
Tuesday, March 12, 2019
Alabaster Bay, Eleuthera
Hi everyone,
This is attempt #3 at this blog post. We are at Alabaster Bay and it is a really beautiful place. I will attempt a longer blog tomorrow. Will get Mary to post pics.
Best to all, Charlie
Tuesday, March 5, 2019
Rock Sound
Hi all,
We have spent a couple of nights here and I realise it is update time. We had been on the move for 3 days, wanting to get a spot with westerly protection from the same storm that has hammered the US. We spent a night at Bennett Harbour, Cat Island, which was a lovely spot. Then we had a nice rousing 60 miles sail here to Rock Sound where our speed averaged about 6 and a half knots until we got to the last 5 miles which was dead to windward. I caved in and used the motor.
We really like this little town. There are quite a few really cute little traditional small houses with bougainvillea erupting from behind stone walls or picket fences. Pastel colours on the buildings and hand painted signs advertising businesses complete the picture. The only discordant note is the trash strewn about, as is the case in many other parts of the country. This is very troubling to tourists and I am surprised the government does not do more to address the problem.
We have spent a couple of nights here and I realise it is update time. We had been on the move for 3 days, wanting to get a spot with westerly protection from the same storm that has hammered the US. We spent a night at Bennett Harbour, Cat Island, which was a lovely spot. Then we had a nice rousing 60 miles sail here to Rock Sound where our speed averaged about 6 and a half knots until we got to the last 5 miles which was dead to windward. I caved in and used the motor.
We really like this little town. There are quite a few really cute little traditional small houses with bougainvillea erupting from behind stone walls or picket fences. Pastel colours on the buildings and hand painted signs advertising businesses complete the picture. The only discordant note is the trash strewn about, as is the case in many other parts of the country. This is very troubling to tourists and I am surprised the government does not do more to address the problem.
Charlie
Friday, March 1, 2019
Photos
The Hermitage at Cat Island.
Enjoying the views from the highest point in the Bahamas, a “mountain” of 206’.
Dinner party on White Seal in Georgetown! Ratatouille, roasted chicken, salad, and a whole lot of rum...
Rafted up with friends for our last night in Elizabeth Harbor.
Anchor’s away!
A friend’s drone got some really awesome photos of our boats. He’s @fuirmontreal on Instagram and they’re documenting their travels with some really spectacular videos.
Cat Island
Hi Everyone,
We had been at Georgetown for a very long time, nearly a month, and it was time to go. Yesterday afternoon we pulled the anchor and traveled about an hour within the bay, to the Red Shanks anchorage. We were joined there by Mary's friends, who rafted up next to us, and with whom we enjoyed a fine last evening. I will ask Mary to post some photos.
This morning we got underway a little before 7, and in about an hour's time we were out on the ocean. Beautiful day, but very light wind. Since we wanted to get to our anchorage at Cat Island before dark, 50 miles away, we started the engine and motorsailed most of the way. Even with the engine loafing along it was magical. Mary had a nice selection of music and with the gentle swell it just seemed perfect. We watched Stocking Island disappear over the horizon, and a few hours later saw Cat Island rise up out of the sea. After dropping the anchor and launching the dinghy we had about an hour of daylight, so we hiked up to the Hermitage, on the highest point of the Bahamas. The place is beyond magical, and we stayed till the bugs drove us away at dusk. It was all built, singlehandedly, by Father Jerome. The padre came to the Bahamas in the early 1900's to replace wooden churches with stone ones. When he retired he kept himself busy by building this Hermitage for his own use. It is lovely, with unreal views, and I am happy to see it is in great shape with tons of great maintenance. Mary will post photos.
We will only be on Cat Island for a couple of days due to approaching bad weather, but this island is special.
Best, Charlie
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